Help: Ruby Cr GPS?

[TomPierce]

I did Twin thumbs after climbing peak 11, but you could go directly to Twin Thumbs up a big scree gully. There is a slightly exposed low 5th class move at the crux, sounds like you will have gear and rope so it won't be a problem for you, you may not need it at all if your confident climbing. The route becomes fairly obvious once you are close.

Getting peak 11 from Chi basin and the traverse to Twin Thumbs is a little more complicated. Take the obvious big ramp along the south slopes of Peak 11, its much wider than it looks from below. Easy scramble to the summit from the end of the ramp. From Peak 11 head south west to a tower, go north as far as you can, follow the ridge taking ledges down the north side, head west to the saddle with Twin Thumbs. Its a fun scramble on fairly good rock, taking this route will avoid most of the big scree slog up to Twin Thumbs.

Many thanks! Yes, I'll have rope and gear but if it's the advertised 5.2 I'll probably try to go without. On the other hand if it's exposed lousy rock I'll have enough to rope solo if necessary. Then again if it's raining...I'll just wave at it as I slog past. Thanks again.
-Tom

[dsunwall]

I edited that first post quite a bit while you were replying, I made changes to help route find from the saddle rather than chi basin.

[TomPierce]

I just got in Friday morning from our San Juan trip and thought I'd pass along some observations/tips about the Ruby Creek approach:

1) We didn't end up using a GPS at all. I had one but at the last minute REI confirmed it was defective and after they swapped it out I was out of time to load all the software, maps and coordinates. That aside, I don't think a GPS is necessary. We did it using only a copy of the written directions and Cooper's mini map and lost the trail only twice very briefly. We also ran into two fellows at the meadow who had used a GPS and they too lost the trail twice. The problem is that finding the waypoints is one thing, but obviously to connect the waypoints it's not a direct line, that's the puzzle. But thanks again Rob for providing the data, much appreciated.

2) The two places we lost the track were (a) at the first noticeable small rock ridge (the written directions don't mention that there are two small rock ribs, not just one). At the first rib go pretty much straight uphill on rock and you eventually can pick up the trail. A few cairns here; and (b) in the dense vegetation below the lakes. No big deal, just thrash forward and you'll find it soon enough. With a partner, just stay in shouting distance but fan out; one of you will find the track.

3) It was very steep and sustained as advertised, but as Stephanie suggested, just not all that bad. It's a long and tough approach but it just didn't blow us away (it was the first time up that way for both of us). TIPS: (a) I'd opt for light boots vs. trail runners, etc. The ground was wet from recent rains and esp in the really steep spots I appreciated the extra bite that a boot gave. (b) Plan on getting at least a bit wet. We didn't have any heavy rain on the approach, but because the Durango train doesn't arrive in Needleton until 11:35, you will be going up in the mid-late afternoon. And you'll be drenched in sweat anyway. I wore shorts and a light poly running top and felt fine.

4) We didn't think the cairns/flags were excessive, but what we both laughed about was that the cairns and flags were placed in spots where the trail was really obvious. When we really needed the assistance, nothing was in sight. Odd and funny.

Once you are up there, Ruby Basin is one of the most beautiful spots I've seen. A football field sized flat meadow ringed by super steep granite spires. If Ruby is an A+, Chicago Basin (where I descended) is IMO a B at best. Beautiful for sure, but Ruby is a special place.

Just my opinions.
-Tom

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[Beachrodney]

Thanks for the updated beta Tom! Did you hike out the same way or did you go to chicago basin?

[TomPierce]

Rodney: On Wednesday we went up to the top of Ruby Basin, then instead of going to Noname Basin, we went over to the top of Twin Thumbs Pass. Steve and I parted paths there and I descended into Chicago Basin alone for an overnighter (complete with an impressive thunder/rainstorm that night), then a leisurely slog out to the train the next morning. Nice loop.
-Tom

[Beachrodney]

Cool Tom, I am thinking about a similar tour. How is the route into chicago basin, pretty strait forward?

[TomPierce]

Chicago Basin is a super straightforward approach, really no way to get lost. Lots of traffic there so help is relatively close by in the summer. Once you venture off the trail near the upper Twin Lakes, however, the trail becomes close to an animal track and once you drop over the pass into another basin there might not be anyone around for miles. A beautiful area but just realize help is not close by and it's rugged terrain with no easy exits.
-Tom

[Nathan Hale]

How is it heading over Twin Thumbs Pass into Chicago Basin with a pack? I've heard widely varying reports on the difficulty of that climb and I'm curious what you thought.

Also curious if you think it would be just as easy to find the trail if you were descending it for the first time rather than ascending it, perhaps because you came into Ruby (or N. Pigeon) basin via Chicago Basin.

I'm thinking about heading down there in a few weeks and looking for beta.

Thanks!

[climbing_rob]

I've gone both Chicago--->Ruby and Ruby--->Chicago in two separate trips. Neither is more "difficult" than the other IMHO, in fact, neither is even difficult, even with a full pack. Both times I had an approx 30# pack, including some light technical gear, helmet and ice axe. I definitely recommend the helmet, none of the other stuff is needed now (this time of year).

So from Ruby basin you basically continue up the basin staying high on the north (left) side along a semi-trail, head for the little pass to the right of Peak 12 (?), very easy to this point. From the pass head down towards upper-Noname basin, but stay as high as is comfortable to your right, heading towards the obvious Twin Thumbs pass gully (red dirt/scree). Again, easy terrain, nothing difficult, some moderate side-hilling and small-stream crossings (maybe dry by now). Head up Twin Thumbs pass, unfortunately the snow will be mostly gone by now, so it becomes a bit of a loose rock/scree slog in places, but not too steep to be at all dangerous. This is the most difficult part, but still, nothing that difficult and not dangerous at all, barring some freak accident. The last 20' to Twoin Thumbs pass is probably the most difficult, we zig-zagged a bit to keep it to class-2. Once on Twin Thumbs pass-proper, there is a mostly-good trail down into Twin Lakes basin, then excellent trail down into Chicago basin.

The reverse goes just as easily.

So bottom line, no class 3 at all, a few scree-talus places, overall piece of cake. I think it took us a leisurely 2.5-3 hours (after climbing Pigeon/Turret that morning) from Ruby camp to a Twin Lakes spot. Maybe another hour down to legal campsites in Chicago basin from there.

Tom, any refinements? My treks were both in July, but conditions wouldn't be that different, though we did have nice low-angle snow to help in the lower approach to Twin Thumbs.

[Beachrodney]

Thanks all, this is good info. Nathan Hale, I paln on being down there sept 10th-19th, if your planning on Ruby creek maybe we could suffer together. Initially my plan was to head to sunlight lake from vallecito, climb windom amd sunlight from the north, head toward No name basin and think about jagged and knife point, go down no name to the ruby cut-off, spend a day or two in ruby hitting pigeon and turret then over to chicago basin for eolus, north eolus and jupiter then back to vallecito via johnson creek but I may be scaling that back a little, now I am thinking about approaching ruby from the train then back to the train via chicago. Thanks again for everybody's info and if anybody wants to hook up let me know!

[TomPierce]

I agree with Rob's assessment. The slog from Ruby>Twin Thumbs>Chicago Basin was not difficult but is a bit harder physically than it looks on a map. The map contours make the traverse over toTwin Thumbs Pass look easy but in reality there are some slabs/cliffs that require dropping altitude more than you'd like. When I did it last week it was also on wet rock, oh...and lightning too!! Most recommended for those adrenaline-deprived. But really not that difficult. That said, I want to stress that it's not that difficult for those who are comfortable in a true wilderness setting. Although there's a decent track to follow for those with minimally skilled backcountry eyes, this ain't Chicago Basin.

Note also that snow alters the issue. Last week there was no snow to speak of, but lots of the infamous San Juan "kitty litter." Not dangerous but very frustrating to hike up; high angle beach sand hiking, ya know?
-Tom