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Ze Grand Teton

Colorado 13er questions, conditions, and other info should be posted here. Also includes topics related to 13ers.com. 13er Trip Reports
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Ze Grand Teton

Postby skier25 » Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:37 am

I am looking forward to climbing the Grand Teton this summer, and I know it is wise to consult the 14ers.com Forum. :bow:

I am thinking of just the straightforward Owen-Spalding route with a very talented and experienced rock climbing friend. Is there any advice to be shared concerning this big peak? Helpful hints? Anything really, would be appreciated.
Carry an ice axe and a clear mentality; they can both save your life.
I get acute mountain sickness when I am away from the mountains.

CG_old

Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby CG_old » Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:48 am

skier25 wrote:I am looking forward to climbing the Grand Teton this summer, and I know it is wise to consult the 14ers.com Forum. :bow:

I am thinking of just the straightforward Owen-Spalding route with a very talented and experienced rock climbing friend. Is there any advice to be shared concerning this big peak? Helpful hints? Anything really, would be appreciated.


I'd suggest doing the Upper Exum... it's a LOT more spectacular than OS (and it's not a lot harder, especially since it sounds like your experienced friend may be doing the leading and is comfortable with the grade). Just my $0.02.

Awesome mountain, you'll have a great time!

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby skiwall » Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:59 am

skier25 wrote:I am looking forward to climbing the Grand Teton this summer, and I know it is wise to consult the 14ers.com Forum. :bow:

I am thinking of just the straightforward Owen-Spalding route with a very talented and experienced rock climbing friend. Is there any advice to be shared concerning this big peak? Helpful hints? Anything really, would be appreciated.


Jealous!!!! I really want to do it! I'm trying to get one of my really experienced rock climbing friends to do it with me this summer. I've heard that it's difficult to stay on route towards the top (I think on this route), but I can't back that up... it's just word of mouth. Take pictures! :)
"A good woman knows her place is in the backcountry." - PW '08

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby cheeseburglar » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:05 pm

Ze Grand Teton is on my list for this summer as well. I haven't thought about it much. I think I have my lead climber picked out but they're training isn't complete.
I was thinking of doing it on July 4th and following the mob up the Exum. Is that feasible or will I get bored waiting for them? I was thinking of buying a guide book. Does anyone know of a good one?

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby Komojin » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:16 pm

If your friend can lead 5.7, and you're comfortable following, I'd highly recommend the Exum Direct. It's a true classic, and you're carrying a rope, anyway, for the rappel, so only additional weight is for some pro. "50 Classic Climbs of North America" was our guide, and it was spot on.

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby skiwall » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:26 pm

I think it would be AMAZING to climb it in the fall, after the risk of summer thunderstorms, and get to the top when the aspens are changing (assuming that happens before they get any big snow, as I think happened this year). Just my personal fantasy. :)
"A good woman knows her place is in the backcountry." - PW '08

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby lodidodi » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:33 pm

Last October

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hmm whole pic won't show, strange, here is the link
http://www.14ers.com/images/userpics/u3 ... 2726_l.jpg

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby peakmind » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:36 pm

I don't remember what guide book I used, but here is some info listed on the Grand Teton National Park site
http://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/climb.htm

The Grand Teton Association sells two books on climbing in Grand Teton National Park:

A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range
by Leigh Ortenburger & Reynold Jackson

Teton Classics: 50 Selected Climbs in Grand Teton National Park
by Richard Rossiter

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby bigmac » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:37 pm

Dude, I would definitiley do the direct exum just keep in mind it is grade III. Whatever that means to you....
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Sir Edmund Hillary

I Immediately regret this decision.

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby TomPierce » Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:56 pm

I've been to the Tetons a few times but never tried the Grand so it's on my loose list for this summer as well. I have both the guides listed below, each has merits/flaws (like all guidebooks) but one thing I stumbled on recently was a CD entitled "Teton Rock Climbs," authored by Aaron Gams and put out by Ground Up Press. It's pretty cool, and has multiple photos taken on route of various key route features. That's always better for me in finding a particular gully/arete/dihedral vs. a pen sketch of the entire route. I like it, others may think it's overkill.
-Tom

Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby Bean » Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:31 pm

I did the Grand last August, and had a blast. Definitely go for the Exum Ridge (either upper or direct), it's not very difficult and the rock is absolutely solid. Full TR here: http://highaltitudebean.blogspot.com/2008/08/week-in-grand-teton-national-park.html

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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Postby skier25 » Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:06 pm

Thanks for the great responses. I will definitely consider the Exum Ridge, either directly or just on the upper part. I have been rock climbing the entire winter thanks to good sunny weather (I painfully learned what the screaming pukies are). The ascent won't likely be a problem as my partner is comfortable leading routes up to the 5.12 range. However, I am worried about descending the Owen-Spalding route without having previously been there. I did that once, and it turned out to be a bad experience. The route CD sounds helpful, but I know it can't substitute for actually having been up/down the route. I've also been reading Teton Classics: 50 Select Climbs; the descriptions sound good, but does anyone know how accurate they currently are? I know that some routes in Roach's book have become slightly outdated, and I'm wondering if it's the same case with Teton Classics. My last question is: how many roped pitches are on the Upper Exum and Exum Direct? Are there four on the Upper Exum? How many are on the Exum Direct? Answers to these new questions are appreciated.
Carry an ice axe and a clear mentality; they can both save your life.
I get acute mountain sickness when I am away from the mountains.

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