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Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby smoove » Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:22 pm

Dakota007 wrote:First all the self proclaimed guru's say that it is stupid to hire a guide in this thread. viewtopic.php?t=41961&p=509939#p509939
You are supposed to learn from friends and gain experience on 14ers!! [-(



Now all the guru's are whining and upset that there are people nice enough on this forum to teach others for free how to ice climb and many of the "gumbies" want to show up just to watch in the hope that they can learn something through observation. I have been to the Ouray ice festival and I do not remember world class climbers volunteering to teach s**t. I just do not understand how people can be such jackasses at novices trying to learn a new skill set or enjoy a new hobby. =;

I for one applaud the gentleman (OP) that set this up and think it is a kind gesture to his climbing community, though I doubt he knew it would be so popular.


I don't think he claimed that world class climbers volunteer their time at the ice festival. But the prices for seminars and clinics are quite reasonable especially given you get to demo all the gear for free.

I think the guy calling people gumbies probably came over from MP. One of his gripes is that having such a large group (made up mostly of beginners) is going to trash the ice for everybody else. And you can't just turn on the sprinklers and replenish it like you can in Ouray. Still, the post was obviously a bit harsh.

Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby forbins_mtn » Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:37 pm

i'm just happy that "gumby" has made it into my vocabulary. i call this a victory on every level

Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby Steve Climber » Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:08 pm

deleted
Last edited by Steve Climber on Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
Dave B wrote:And/or line thy helmet with tin foil and realize this is a freaking mountaineering website.


Steve Climber wrote:So that's your backpack, huh?

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby centrifuge » Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:43 pm

Dakota007 wrote:First all the self proclaimed guru's say that it is stupid to hire a guide in this thread. viewtopic.php?t=41961&p=509939#p509939
You are supposed to learn from friends and gain experience on 14ers!! [-(



Now all the guru's are whining and upset that there are people nice enough on this forum to teach others for free how to ice climb and many of the "gumbies" want to show up just to watch in the hope that they can learn something through observation. I have been to the Ouray ice festival and I do not remember world class climbers volunteering to teach s**t. I just do not understand how people can be such jackasses at novices trying to learn a new skill set or enjoy a new hobby. =;

I for one applaud the gentleman (OP) that set this up and think it is a kind gesture to his climbing community, though I doubt he knew it would be so popular.


Dakota007: I am by no means questioning the concept of helping people learn new skills, quite the opposite. I love the idea of helping others learn these skills, because I was taught by climbers who were kind enough to help me. My only questions regarding this particular situation was regarding the named location. Some places are better for this sort of thing than others. If people were talking about Silverplume I would have said the same thing. There are just better, safer venues that are more mindful of the impact the event may have on other climbers.

All of that being said, I dont think it was the intent of the OP to do anything that would be detrimental to anyone, quite the opposite and hope he is able to put something together somewhere, somehow :)
"i feel so extraordinary, somethings got a hold on me, I get this feeling I'm in motion, a sudden sence of liberty“ new order

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby susanjoypaul » Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:50 am

I don't know what the big deal is. The Colorado Mountain Club brings groups to Lincoln Falls every year and no one says a thing. Years ago, I made several trips out there with their BMS and HAMS groups. We didn't ruin the ice for everyone else. I did learn how to climb. It was fun. I'm pretty sure it's still public property, and I'm also pretty sure the people who are putting this together will be mindful of the safety of their party, and of the sustainability of the climbing area. This is a great teaching opportunity. Would have been nice to see some of the people bitching about it, instead chime in to offer some training to these folks. If you get involved, then maybe you could have some say in exactly where they climb (the easier slabs that you will not be on), and how they climb (with minimal impact), and actually have a positive long-term influence on how your climbing area is affected.

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby centrifuge » Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:24 am

Susan, trust me, people not in the CMC group who try to use the 2 areas they use (Silverplume and Lincoln Falls) are not happy when they show up and cant really climb because there is a group of 15 people already there with all the anchors already taken. Actually, the CMC can be even worse because at least at Silverplume they will send someone ahead by an hour and have them set up on both sets of anchors and just wait protecting their ropes so even if you beat the group there you find the anchors already taken with no one climbing. Really, its about being considerate of other climbers. Smaller groups can more easily ensure the climbs are shared in small areas. But with large groups it becomes impossible to avoid seriously impacting other climbers trying to use the area when using small climbing area. Large groups, really should use large areas where you can reduce impact, or go out in small groups to learn.
"i feel so extraordinary, somethings got a hold on me, I get this feeling I'm in motion, a sudden sence of liberty“ new order

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby susanjoypaul » Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:53 am

Point taken, but I still think you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill. About a dozen people responded, and not all of them are beginners. And the newbies who responded are mountaineers, used to snow travel - not "day hikers" who don't know their ice from a hole in the ground. Some of these folks have done major and unguided expeditions. Half of them likely won't even show up. More likely, there will be a small group of experienced mountain climbers standing around in their puffy jackets, drinking hot chocolate and learning how to kick steps, swing a tool, and navigate low angle ice slabs. There will be no hot tubs, toasters, dogs, guns or boob flashing - just some 14ers.com folks learning the ropes. It's pathetic that someone who never visits this site can just step in, plant an idea, and incite this sense of entitlement and exclusion. If you were my kids I'd take away your tools and send you all to your rooms for the winter.

Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby forbins_mtn » Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:58 am

that's how i feel too, susan. It's not a group of 30, it's not a group of completely novice skill levels, everyone i know who's responded to this thread is incredibly conscientious of their surroundings and i for one would be more than willing to step back for the entire day if another group was there and wanted to climb.

but whatever, the damage is done. Poor Matt. Nice try buddy. Thank you for the attempt at giving us a fantastic day doing something that's not the easiest thing to learn. PM me if you guys still go out. I'd love to join. Even in Ouray or ten miles into the backcountry

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby I Man » Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:15 am

I figure I can't delay replying anymore. My gut reaction was to cancel, but after talking to Noah and others, I realize that's not fair. If you want to be Elitist over Lincoln Falls, you need to expand your horizons. Look even in this thread, the pillars are already hacked out. That's Lincoln. Not everyone can drive to Ouray just to watch or get one lap in. Everyone learns somewhere.

So that bring said: this is NOT a clinic, I am NOT a veteran ice climber and there are dozens on this site stronger than me. I am simply providing a safe way to experience it. All I am providing is a top rope and a group of like minded individuals. "There's the rope, there's the ice...go climb it."

As TJ said there were only a dozen or so replies and most will bail. We will likely only take 1-2 anchors, keep it to groups of 4-5 with a "leader." I'm sorry but that's not much different than what you'd see anyway, except that we are from a "hiking community."

So yea. PM me if you plan to attend and what you gear/ skill level is. If it gets to be too big I'll cap it. Noah will try and make it as well.

Hike 14ers, scramble hard winter peaks...climb big mountains....it doesn't matter. We are all Gumbys.

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby centrifuge » Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:23 am

For the record folk, this isnt about elitism. Elitism is saying only certain climbers should be able to climb there, no one has said that. All anyone has said is go in smaller groups, not a single large one.

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby colokeith » Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:06 am

centrifuge wrote:For the record folk, this isnt about elitism. Elitism is saying only certain climbers should be able to climb there, no one has said that. All anyone has said is go in smaller groups, not a single large one.


IMHO calling the folks who wanted to go on this trip "highlands ranch gumbies" is pretty elitist.
To climb is to push yourself in a way you might not normally imagine is possible. If your stamina, skill, and luck are sound you will get to stand on top. ... I realized that with climbing, I'd found something that nourished my soul and could forge me into a better version myself - Jim Davidson

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby centrifuge » Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:19 am

colokeith wrote:
centrifuge wrote:For the record folk, this isnt about elitism. Elitism is saying only certain climbers should be able to climb there, no one has said that. All anyone has said is go in smaller groups, not a single large one.


IMHO calling the folks who wanted to go on this trip "highlands ranch gumbies" is pretty elitist.


That was posted on Mountain Post, not here, and I dont agree with that statement. Now lets all move on from the ridiculous and continuous bantering that is an unfortunatly typical outcome to any type of disagreement on a 14ers.com thread...
"i feel so extraordinary, somethings got a hold on me, I get this feeling I'm in motion, a sudden sence of liberty“ new order

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