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Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing. Gear Classifieds
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Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby crossfitter » Thu May 09, 2013 8:49 am

That's not me, it's just a random picture I ripped off google images. I have the 5.10 camp 4 which I really like but they are much closer to a hiking shoe. I've also used the la sportiva boulder x's on every 14er that wasn't a snow climb and they worked great (though completely shredded by the end of the summer), however they are not quite as comfortable as the camp 4. Those evolves seem really nice for true rock routes since they would pack down tiny in your pack. I've been tempted to use trail runners for the hike in, switch to cruzers where I drop my pack and keep them for the descent. Then again, carrying 3 pairs of shoes seems silly.
- A mountain is not a checkbox to be ticked
- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains
- Judgment and experience are the two most important pieces of gear you own
- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers
- Courage cannot be bought at REI or carried with you in your rucksack


Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby Steve Climber » Thu May 09, 2013 9:03 am

crossfitter wrote:That's not me, it's just a random picture I ripped off google images. I have the 5.10 camp 4 which I really like but they are much closer to a hiking shoe. I've also used the la sportiva boulder x's on every 14er that wasn't a snow climb and they worked great (though completely shredded by the end of the summer), however they are not quite as comfortable as the camp 4. Those evolves seem really nice for true rock routes since they would pack down tiny in your pack. I've been tempted to use trail runners for the hike in, switch to cruzers where I drop my pack and keep them for the descent. Then again, carrying 3 pairs of shoes seems silly.


Yeah, 3 pairs would be a bit much for my taste. I have just recently been introduced to flatiron climbing and would love to get something that offers more comfort than my gym shoes for multi-pitch wear but can still handle a walk in/out. Might just end up with light trail runners and some Nago's or something "less-worse" than my gym shoes. Ideally, would be awesome to just wear ONE pair to and from low class rock and save the 2 pair setup for much longer approaches and harder rock.
Dave B wrote:And/or line thy helmet with tin foil and realize this is a freaking mountaineering website.


Steve Climber wrote:So that's your backpack, huh?

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Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby crossfitter » Thu May 09, 2013 9:20 am

For standard flatiron slabs, I only use my camp 4s now and they work great. Once you get used to it, I think they work just as well if not better than rock shoes for slab climbs - you're not really edging, after all. The three pair option would really only be for alpine rock with long approaches and a shitty descent. Drop the trail runners at the base, approach shoes up to the bottom of the route and for the descent. I currently just throw my camp 4s in the pack but they are relatively heavy and take up a lot of space.
- A mountain is not a checkbox to be ticked
- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains
- Judgment and experience are the two most important pieces of gear you own
- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers
- Courage cannot be bought at REI or carried with you in your rucksack


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Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby FCSquid » Thu May 09, 2013 9:26 am

I used to always use Merrell trail runners for ankle flexibility and grip, and 95% of the time that's a sufficient shoe.

The only time that proved not to be the case was during the talus-hopping death grind on Little Bear's southwest ridge. That's the only time I could tell that the trail runners didn't have enough structure for a huge day like that. I got a pair of Asolo FSN 95 GTXs, which have a much sturdier toe box for routes like that. While it does sacrifice some of that flexibility I liked for slabs, etc - they do have a really grippy Vibram sole. I'm comfortable on Class 4 terrain now with the Asolos.
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Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby GregMiller » Thu May 09, 2013 9:46 am

I tried the Salewa Mountain Trainer, and something in how they were built felt great in the store, but absolutely killed my feet when I took them hiking. So, make sure you buy them somewhere that you can take them hiking, then take them back if they don't work for you.
Still Here
been scared and battered. My hopes the wind done scattered. Snow has friz me, Sun has baked me,
Looks like between 'em they done Tried to make me
Stop laughin', stop lovin', stop livin'-- But I don't care! I'm still here!
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Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby Liquid Shadow » Thu May 09, 2013 9:56 am

I really like my Evolv Cruzers. They are super comfy. Smears really well, edges ok, but on the slabby rocks they shine. I free soloed the five flatirons in them. The picture is of me on Stairway to Heaven in Skunk Canyon. They are very minimal but I would buy them again. I've heard people who can climb 5.11s in them.

Re: Footwear Dilemma - What to wear?

Postby Steve Climber » Thu May 09, 2013 10:01 am

Liquid Shadow wrote:I really like my Evolv Cruzers. They are super comfy. Smears really well, edges ok, but on the slabby rocks they shine. I free soloed the five flatirons in them. The picture is of me on Stairway to Heaven in Skunk Canyon. They are very minimal but I would buy them again. I've heard people who can climb 5.11s in them.


HMMMM.... :-k Definitely will keep them on the shortlist.

Haven't seen the Camp 4 yet, but will check them out as well.

Thanks!
Dave B wrote:And/or line thy helmet with tin foil and realize this is a freaking mountaineering website.


Steve Climber wrote:So that's your backpack, huh?

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