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Beginner rock shoes?

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby SarahT » Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:37 am

Another vote for the 5.10 Spires. They were my 1st shoe and once I started climbing harder I tried to find a more aggressive shoe to replace them... couldn't do it. Everything felt horribly uncomfortable. So I resorted to buying another pair of the Spires and have been climbing up to 5.11 outside and 5.12 in the gym with them without issue. Love 'em.
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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby yedi » Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:39 pm

Just to follow up on my initial post (and as a note for others with wide feet), I ended up going with Boreal Jokers in a half size below my street shoes. I tried on probably 25 different pairs, and these seemed to fit the best. The guy are REI said they're built on a wider last, so hopefully they'll work out. They're uncomfortable but not painfully so. Thanks everyone for all the replies. No doubt I'll be sending that 5.3 project I've been working on in no time!

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby BlueKhan » Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:22 pm

I have mid-wide feet and have struggled with many different types and brands of rock-climbing shoes until I found my comfort in Red Chiles. I now own 3 different pairs of Red Chiles with different specs and I love them all. They feel like home.

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby brocknrolla » Wed Mar 27, 2013 3:21 pm

My vote lies with the Five Ten Moccasyms. Best soft crack shoe i've owned and super comfortable for long days. Good for gym stuff too, but may break down a little quicker than some other models.

Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby Steve Climber » Wed Mar 27, 2013 3:55 pm

forbins_mtn wrote:i'm struggling finding rock shoes for my really wide feet. I'm not the kind of person who is built for extreme technical rock climbing - but i'd still like to find a shoe that doesn't make my feet scream within ten minutes. Or is that just the way it goes? tighter, the better kind of deal


I run MadRock Flashes and love them for my wide feet...Also love the (2) strap velcro closure for quick in/out at the gym. They smear pretty well and edge as well as any other shoe I've worn.

If you do get them, make sure to buy for comfort and IN PERSON...I ordered mine online in my normal shoe size after trying some on at REI (which fit perfect but wasn't ready to buy the moment) and they are about 1/2 size small IMO. They don't bug me on wall, but on belay I HAVE to step out the back of them or they destroy my toes.

FWIW, it looks like they have been replaced by the Flash 2.0. Only noticeable difference I can see is the sole has been redone (now orange and less aggressive rear fins for heel hooks)...I don't know difference between the two rubbers. Price is also about $10 higher than I paid.

Flash - http://www.sunandski.com/Mad_Rock_Flash_Rock_Climbing_Shoes_p/9210065041000.htm?gclid=CLu65YjynbYCFZFaMgodQHgAdA

Flash 2.0 - http://www.backcountry.com/mad-rock-flash-climbing-shoe-mens-2009
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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby climbingaggie03 » Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:57 pm

I was going to suggest boreal shoes, I have wide feet too, and they usually work well for me. I also think la sportiva mythos are a good shoe for us duck footed souls (soles?) they are built on a narrower last, but once they break in, they are pretty flexible and mouldable for wide feet.

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La Sportiva Mythos

Postby mts4602 » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:23 am

I'm going to get these for my first trad shoes, but I'm not sure what size to get. I have to order them online. I have some other beginner sportivas that I use for the gym and sport right now that are sized extremely tight where my toes are curled a little bit ( I was told they should be like this). They are tight enough that I can't wear socks with them.

Any suggestions for how I can guess my size before I order them? I figure trad shoes should not be as tight as my sport shoes. I wear a 9.5 normal shoe and I would like to be able to wear some thin socks with these trad shoes.

Thanks
Matt

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Re: La Sportiva Mythos

Postby Brian C » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:44 am

mts4602 wrote:Any suggestions for how I can guess my size before I order them? I figure trad shoes should not be as tight as my sport shoes. I wear a 9.5 normal shoe and I would like to be able to wear some thin socks with these trad shoes.

Thanks


Just know that they will stretch out by close to a whole size after wearing them for a few dozen climbs. My first shoes were Mythos and they were quite tight, but later before I retired them, I could wear a sock comfortably. I'd go to REI (or another store) and try them on first or make sure wherever you buy has a good return policy. I'd start with a whole size down from your shoe size. So, 9.5 is about a 43.5, so I'd start with a 42.5.
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Re: La Sportiva Mythos

Postby Steve Climber » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:47 am

mts4602 wrote:Any suggestions for how I can guess my size before I order them? I figure trad shoes should not be as tight as my sport shoes. I wear a 9.5 normal shoe and I would like to be able to wear some thin socks with these trad shoes.


The one lesson I took from my purchase was to NOT order online if at all possible...I tried mine on in a store then ordered online and got a totally different fit in the exact same shoe. If you MUST order online, but can try them on in person first, I would try on as many pairs as possible to get an average fit/feel (make sure you wear comparable socks) and keep your fingers crossed the online pair fits inside that range. There is enough variance in most small manufacturers' process that each shoe can be quite different from the next.
Dave B wrote:And/or line thy helmet with tin foil and realize this is a freaking mountaineering website.


Steve Climber wrote:So that's your backpack, huh?

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby SolarAlex » Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:08 am

i bought some 5.10 laceups when i started climbing..forget the model name but they are cheap and blue. very comfortable, basically a tennis shoe with climbing shoe rubber. id say get something comfortable and cheap, since you will likely destroy the shoes anyway. once you decide you like climbing, then get some good shoes.

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby Svenski Norski » Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:03 am

La Sportiva Nago's are a nice all-around, durable starter thru intermediate shoe. they don't stretch as much as the Mythos, but do loosen up some. I went a size down- often a good choice in rock shoes, tho' some brands like 5.10 fit well in your normal size. They hold up well, smear, jam, and dime-edge good enough for my 5.8 abilities.

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