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First Ascent Guide Glove

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First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby Andymcp1 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:27 pm

Has anyone used the First Ascent Guide Glove and have an opinion on it. I have tried them on and love the dexterity, but am unsure on the warmth? Any comparisons to other similar gloves would be great (MH bazooka, Black diamond guide)

I want something bomber for cold winter days here, and something I can use on future climbs to aconcagua/ pico/ denali/ kili.

Thank you!

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby EatinHardtack » Mon Oct 15, 2012 10:00 pm

Hestra.

Only cold weather glove I will buy. I do like the FA glove but question the warmth, and I have a lot of FA gear (oh crap I hope the Baron didn't just read that).

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby MuchosPixels » Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:34 pm

I have tried many gloves and this is my favorite by far and I will buy it again and again. http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/mountain/gloves/mercury-mitt yes, its a mitt but in frigid temps its the only way to go IMHO. Warm, comfortable, dry inside and out (wicks sweat nicely also). If its warmer than say 20-25F I use something lighter. It should be good for most climbs in the category you mentioned with maybe Aconcagua being the exception (You might want a mitt for -40F on Summit day only). The BD Guide Glove should be very close in warmth and looks to be very durable and obviously will have increased dexterity being a glove.

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby sgladbach » Tue Oct 16, 2012 7:30 am

What you Actually need to know:

Mittens Mandatory. Gloves optional.

Don't shop for gloves until you have a good pair of mitts.


Through Barry Johnson, I met Alan Arnette (Seven Summits completer) last month. Though
I had a very different experience, he commented that Aconcogua was the coldest of his seven summits. Whoda guessed? We've both got some pretty good mitts and no frostbite even in exteme conditions.

I've had some pretty cold winter peaks in Colorado. I always carry a light pair of mitts with pretty good dexterity and a set of expedition mitts. My gloves are much less beefy and serve me well in fair winter conditions, but they are not where I put my $$$.
Last edited by sgladbach on Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby Andymcp1 » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:39 am

Thank you guys for the advice on the mitts. Any reccomendations on an expidition mitt? I have a medium weight pair that so far has provided enough warmth here even on some -temp days, that I use with a pair of fleece liners. But I am unsure on which heavy weight pair to go with?

Steve- one of my friends who has climbed 6 of the 7 summits said the same thing about temps on Aconcagua, which is the one he couldent check off his list.

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby DaveSwink » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:43 am

sgladbach wrote:Mittens Mandatory. Gloves optional.

Don't shop for gloves until you have a good pair of mitts.


Wisdom! =D> For moderate Colorado winter climbs (down to single digits) I compromise by using mittens with medium weight glove liners rather than the mitt liners. That allows me to remove the mittens for short periods to do dexterous tasks and then jam my gloved hands back into those mittens to warm up again.

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby DaveSwink » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:02 am

Andymcp1 wrote:Thank you guys for the advice on the mitts. Any reccomendations on an expidition mitt?


http://www.rbhdesigns.com/product/30&CFID=3719033&CFTOKEN=10329988/vapor-mitt.htm Note the different liners available. I use glove liner like http://www.rbhdesigns.com/product/30&CFID=3719033&CFTOKEN=10329988/vapor-mitt.htm for most Colorado winter days.

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby randalmartin » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:03 am

I have the FA Guide Gloves AND the BD Mercury Mitts. There is no comparison. The BD Mercury Mitts are true winter mitts. The FA Guide Gloves are frankly not very warm. I have been quite disappointed in that aspect of their performance because they are sold under the notion that they would be fine in all but the coldest of conditions. Not true for me. Having said that my hands do run cold so your experience may differ a bit, however, not to the point that the Guide gloves would be winter mountaineering worthy. They are not. The primary benefit of Guide gloves is their durability and dexterity. But there are very few days in the mountains where I would actually take them. Shoulder season maybe.

Edit: Having just read the comment about Dave Hahn wearing the Guide gloves all the way to the summits of Vinson, Everest and Denali I can only say that his hands must run extremely warm.
Last edited by randalmartin on Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:07 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby Alan Arnette » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:04 am

Gloves are a difficult topic but over the years, I have settled on a good combination for me. A lot depends on how cold your hands get when not moving a lot or moving slowly.

Many people don't like mitts due to being too bulky and not having enough dexterity but if all you are doing is mostly walking and using your hands for balance, they are fine imho. Also nice for a long down time in cold conditions or just as a backup in case your fingers go num :) But if you are clipping in and out or manipulating 'bniners, etc. you may find yourself removing them thus risking frostbite in harsh conditions.

I have used BD Mercury Mitts for years, even on the summit of Everest with great success. They are warm and have good dexterity. My liner was a thick pile glove from my MH Medusa glove I use for ice climbing http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Men%27s-Medusa-Glove/OM5423,default,pd.html. For a "working" glove, read rocks but not too cold, I use the MH Torsion http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Men%27s-Torsion%E2%84%A2-Glove/OM4339,default,pd.html

Many people swear by OR Alit Mit but I find them too bulky, but would be great for a bivy or long wait. I have the Hestra Alpine Pro but find them good only to about freezing unless you are moving a lot, but incredible workmanship and quality.

For Aconcagua, I used my pile liners under my Mercury Mitts for most of the summit push given you don't use you hands that much. BTW, I asked Dave Hahn, sponsored by FA, what he uses and he said the FA Guide glove all the way to the summit of Everest, Vinson, Denial, etc. - not a bad reference!

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby mtn114 » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:05 am

dswink wrote:Wisdom! =D> For moderate Colorado winter climbs (down to single digits) I compromise by using mittens with medium weight glove liners rather than the mitt liners. That allows me to remove the mittens for short periods to do dexterous tasks and then jam my gloved hands back into those mittens to warm up again.


+1 to this, worked well for me in the same range. REI doesn't sell the mitts I use, but something like the BD Mercury and BD liners; anymore I carry a pair of BD Punishers as well for the in betweens where I still would like some dexterity; they're ice climbing gloves though so a compromise.
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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby davebobk47 » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:09 am

I have the FA Guide Glove and have used them extensively for about 3+ years. Awesome glove and would buy them again but I do own a pair of BD mittens for the really cold days.
"All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night, in the dusty recesses of their minds, awake in the day to find that it was vanity. But the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes to make it reality." -T.E. Lawrence

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Re: First Ascent Guide Glove

Postby EatinHardtack » Tue Oct 16, 2012 10:35 am

Well yeah, agreed if we are talking about total all around warmth, then get mittens without a doubt. If it's a glove your looking for, I'd still recommend Hestra.
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