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Eiger training in CO?

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Eiger training in CO?

Postby repcool » Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:25 pm

Howdy all,

I am making plans to climb the Eiger by the west route next spring. Wondering if anyone has experience and can clue me in to similar routes on a 14er that would be good training\testing.

I live in Breckenridge and was looking at East Route up Quandary as a possibility.

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby Carl » Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:42 pm

repcool wrote:Howdy all,

I am making plans to climb the Eiger by the west route next spring. Wondering if anyone has experience and can clue me in to similar routes on a 14er that would be good training\testing.

I live in Breckenridge and was looking at East Route up Quandary as a possibility.


The west route is the standard route, right? That might be the only similarity it has with Quandary's east ridge. Although I can't say as I've only gone so far as the base of the Eiger. Looks sweet!

Image

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby gdthomas » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:44 pm

According to Summitpost (http://www.summitpost.org/eiger-west-flank/743270), the West Flank of the Eiger is Grade II, Class 5.3 climb. Quandary's East Ridge is Grade I, Class 1, not even close. From the image in the above link, I'd say Vestal Peak's Wham Ridge would be similar in difficulty. Perhaps Gash Ridge on Blanca Peak or one of the low 5th class routes on Long's (eg., Keiners) would be others.

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby cheeseburglar » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:01 pm

You can emulate parts of the climb here, maybe not the whole thing.
For example, how will simulate Frenchmen kicking ice and rock on you from above, and yelling at you to hurry from below?
Longs Peak has the routes that get climbed with snow and ice on them. You could also climb Decalibron from the Lincoln Ice falls. Don't know what the grade on that route is. I suppose if you are training, you can make it as hard as you want.
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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby SarahT » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:24 am

repcool wrote:I am making plans to climb the Eiger by the west route next spring. I live in Breckenridge and was looking at East Route up Quandary as a possibility.


Is this a joke? I haven't been up the Eiger but I've climbed several peaks in the Swiss Alps and even most of the "easy" ones are considerably harder than our 14ers, let alone Quandary, one of the easiest of the bunch! Pick any class 3-5 route and climb it with plenty of snow. Most people typically climb in July/August in the Alps. I've been there in late June (the Eiger area actually) and that was even a bit early for climbing. Lots of snow. Good skiing touring in spring but the peaks are going to be pretty tough.
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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby TomPierce » Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:01 am

I haven't been on the Eiger but like Sarah I've been to the Alps several times. The climbs are generally much harder than Colorado climbs. Icier, colder, just tougher. You'd also need to be proficient with basic rope work...with alpine gloves and a pack on after having climbed for hours on end. Don't mean to rain on a parade but Quandary's East Ridge isn't IMO an adequate training ground. Maybe the Inwood Arete in late fall/winter? Long's North Face in fall/winter comes to mind as well. I'm sure there are lots of good training climbs here in Colorado; I'd look for a long alpine route with a spot of low 5th on it with some snow/ice tossed in. Oh, and the climbs in the Alps are routinely done 100% in crampons, even on rock. It's a skill to develop.

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby nyker » Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:38 am

Watch the movie "North Face"

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0844457/

A *bit* steeper than Quandary's East Ridge. Did you mean to compare it to the West Ridge? I haven't been to see the Eiger, but I'd say it's probably a bit steeper than that also - I am thinking Capitol steep and add in some ice and snow, maybe Ellingwood arrete on the Needle, in winter?

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby smoove » Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:45 am

nyker wrote:Watch the movie "North Face"

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0844457/

A *bit* steeper than Quandary's East Ridge. Did you mean to compare it to the West Ridge? I haven't been to see the Eiger, but I'd say it's probably a bit steeper than that also - I am thinking Capitol steep and add in some ice and snow, maybe Ellingwood arrete on the Needle, in winter?


Well, that movie is, of course, about The North Face of the Eiger--a whole different ball game. ;)

But it doesn't look that bad. As Ueli demostrates, all you need is crampons, a couple ice tools, and a few hours!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdHlyjM_8_E

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby Hungry Jack » Wed Aug 22, 2012 11:27 am

cheeseburglar wrote:You can emulate parts of the climb here, maybe not the whole thing.
For example, how will simulate Frenchmen kicking ice and rock on you from above, and yelling at you to hurry from below?


LOL. I cannot speak from experience, but based on what I have read about the Eiger, especially the nordwand, is that nothing in Colorado can compare to the horrific weather that assaults that peak, at least in summer, which is just warm enough to send sleet, rain, water, ice, graupel, rock, and snow onto north face climbers at regular intervals. And that doesn't even include snotty Frenchman.

I guess you could go to Longs in winter and do Kieners after you have chartered a helicopter to hover above you and throw cat litter, snow cones, and an occasional bowling ball into the gully above you.
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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby Carl » Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:54 pm

cheeseburglar wrote:For example, how will simulate Frenchmen kicking ice and rock on you from above, and yelling at you to hurry from below?


Asking some Euros in the Vail lift line to exhibit some patience might be a good start.

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby repcool » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:02 pm

SarahT wrote:
repcool wrote:I am making plans to climb the Eiger by the west route next spring. I live in Breckenridge and was looking at East Route up Quandary as a possibility.


Is this a joke? I haven't been up the Eiger but I've climbed several peaks in the Swiss Alps and even most of the "easy" ones are considerably harder than our 14ers, let alone Quandary, one of the easiest of the bunch! Pick any class 3-5 route and climb it with plenty of snow. Most people typically climb in July/August in the Alps. I've been there in late June (the Eiger area actually) and that was even a bit early for climbing. Lots of snow. Good skiing touring in spring but the peaks are going to be pretty tough.


Ooops I made a typo and then left the forum for a day! I meant the West Route on Quandary which is a class 3....

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Re: Eiger training in CO?

Postby Winter8000m » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:31 pm

Go do Alexanders Chimney....lots of moderate mixed to play around in RMNP. Be over prepared rather then Class 3 snowy rock prepared. M2 to 4 would be good self confidence. Maybe link up Martha and Dreamweaver in a day. Best of luck. By the way, great picture of the Eiger above! What a dreamy North Face it is...so much history and tragedy
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