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Rack for Cables Route?

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Rack for Cables Route?

Postby forbins_mtn » Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:02 am

gearing up to do this route in September with CMC for the 14ers Challenge day. I'm looking for some first hand beta on what you used for pro on the Cables Route. Mountain Project says "minimal rack w/ stoppers, hexes or tri-cams"

Just seeing what everyone has used, and how many pieces you placed for each of the three pitches. Trying to minimize weight. It's 5.4, so I don't imagine much needs to be placed and it looks like i'm gonna have to cart a 70m rope up there cuz I don't have a smaller one at the moment.

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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby HuskyRunner » Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:29 am

We did a few years ago in winter like conditions (it was in May but covered in snow) and outside of clipping one of the old ring bolts (could only find one of them) only placed maybe 4 pieces? I recall that I took a single run of cams and stoppers and the pieces I placed were in larger blocks that stuck above the snow, 1" - 2" inch pieces, nothing small.

If I were to do in summer conditions I would only take mostly passive gear with maybe a few cams in hand size range.
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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby climbing_rob » Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:32 am

I climbed it 10 years ago, so memory fades and my input should be taken w/ a grain of salt, but I remember only protecting a very short area, 100' tops, and I swear I remember the leader somehow just attached to the big eyebolts along the crux. Maybe he put a cam or two in, but overall, minimal pro required. Are the eyebolts still there? If so, just girth a sling, clip and go. We left our rope and other gear at the top of the tech section, summitted and returned and rapped down. Honestly, I swear this route is safer and certainly physically easier than the keyhole route.

Good luck! My wife and myself are leading Windom that day (Sept. 8th). I talked to the organizer of the event last weekend (Sherri R.), there were still two 14ers that needed a leader; Crestone Needle (std. route) and South Maroon.

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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby crossfitter » Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:14 am

What's your comfort level? It's perfectly reasonable to solo but you could also put in 2 dozen pieces if you wanted. If you're willing to solo the easy 5th terrain below the right facing corner (right below the first eye bolt) you can do the entire route in 1 long pitch with a 60m rope. For the most part I think you'd be challenged to find a spot for anything larger than a #1 camalot and there's really no reason to bring microcams, say anything smaller than a .4 or .5 camalot. The entire route is much less than vertical so you'll have no problems fishing finger-sized stoppers in wherever you want. Then again, if you don't mind running it out you might only clip the eyebolts. All the eyebolts are enormous and it's standard practice for descending parties to rappel off a single one (since that's all that's there). We found the single eyebolt at the top to be a perfectly adequate anchor but use your own judgement.
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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby HunkyDunk » Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:01 am

I have ran into ice in the cracks in September,,actually Labor Day about 10 years ago! There is a trip report about doing the route last Sept, check it out,,they had lots of ice!
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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby Brian C » Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:08 am

3 pitches? It's really only one pitch about 100 feet. Gear is such a matter of preference. Like crossfitter said. you could solo it or place a bunch of gear. What would you normally take on a 5.4 route? Use what you're comfortable with.
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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby crossfitter » Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:29 am

Fletch wrote:After the first 'oh s**t' piece and the second 2X piece, how far apart are the next placements? Can you place gear the whole way up (so it being a matter of personal preference) or are there bolts (sport? :wft: ) or are there designated areas to place pro? If it's only a 100' section that can be done with a 60m rope, then you could do the math and say that 3-5 pieces should be plenty (assuming you can sling an anchor and you bring 2 more pieces than you think you'll need). Then it would come down to what to bring - and the rock up there seems like stoppers and maybe tricams would be the way to go. But then again, listen to Crossfitter and others who have actually done the route. I've never climbed the route, but that would be my thought process with minimal info...


Image

There's a continuous/nearly continuous crack system the whole way. If you carried enough of the right amount of gear, you could put a piece in every 6 inches on the crux pitch. There are 4-6 enormous eye bolts but they are far enough apart that a fall wouldn't be pleasant - definitely not a sport route in the sense of what you would find at the crags.
- A mountain is not a checkbox to be ticked
- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains
- Judgment and experience are the two most important pieces of gear you own
- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers
- Courage cannot be bought at REI or carried with you in your rucksack


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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby Carl » Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:34 am

I think I've been on this route a half dozen times in the last few years. Like others have said, it's one pitch of about 110 to 115 feet of 5.4 climbing. It's not sustained, but you've got a 5.4 move towards the beginning and another towards the end, with maybe 5.0 in between. If using a rope, I there are 3 eyebolts during that 110 foot section, with a couple more above that after the climbing eases. If you have a strong leader, gear might not be necessary and the eyebolts could be used exclusively. I've climbed it with and without a rope, depending on conditions. When I climbed it last November I think I brought 5 or 6 C4s, .4 to #2, and placed a couple pieces.

Also, take note of what Rob said about girth hitching the eyebolts. Bring slings because the eyebolts are too fat for carabiners.

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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby Brian C » Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:08 pm

Fletch wrote:Looks fun! May need to move this towards the top of the to-do list...

(silly question here, but if you were to pick a route in the 5.0-5.7 range on Longs, would the Cables route be the one? Or is there something via Broadway or one of the chutes on the other side that would be more fun? nothing to take away from the route but if you have done the Keyhole, then the Cables route would be about 75% a re-do plus a 100 ft section of 5.4, right?)


Of the 6 routes I've done on Longs only 3 have been technical and none harder than 5.7 (Kiener's, Keyhole Ridge, NF), so I don't have experience with much of what's up there...But... If I were to repeat one it would not be the north face it would be Keyhole Ridge. The north face really isn't that interesting in my opinion compared to the others. The next routes I want to do up there are the Beaver (5.4), Stettner's Ledges (5.7+) and Chessman's Couloir (5.0). Gerry Neptune is giving a presentation on Longs routes easier than 5.8 tonight at Neptune.
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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby Carl » Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:22 pm

Brian C wrote:
Fletch wrote:Looks fun! May need to move this towards the top of the to-do list...

(silly question here, but if you were to pick a route in the 5.0-5.7 range on Longs, would the Cables route be the one? Or is there something via Broadway or one of the chutes on the other side that would be more fun? nothing to take away from the route but if you have done the Keyhole, then the Cables route would be about 75% a re-do plus a 100 ft section of 5.4, right?)


Of the 6 routes I've done on Longs only 3 have been technical and none harder than 5.7 (Kiener's, Keyhole Ridge, NF), so I don't have experience with much of what's up there...But... If I were to repeat one it would not be the north face it would be Keyhole Ridge. The north face really isn't that interesting in my opinion compared to the others. The next routes I want to do up there are the Beaver (5.4), Stettner's Ledges (5.7+) and Chessman's Couloir (5.0). Gerry Neptune is giving a presentation on Longs routes easier than 5.8 tonight at Neptune.


The presentation tonight sounds great. Timely post Brian. Going to see if I can make it. In the 5.0 to 5.7 range I'd probably go with Kieners, Keyhole Ridge, then North Face. Kieners is my favorite climb in the state, although I tend to avoid the 5th class stuff so I don't have to worry about roping up. Broadway is like nothing else! The Beaver is fun and certainly off the beaten path on Longs but the technical section is limited to a 100ft rap and a single pitch of 5.4. I did it solo after climbing a little tower up that way with Tom Pierce a couple years ago. Put up a TR. Is Chessman's Couloir the same as Knight's Couloir the same as NW Couloir? If so, that's a fun route but the 5th class section is really short. Basically a more fun alternative to the Keyhole route. If it's not the same thing, please share!

Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby forbins_mtn » Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:59 pm

Amazing info, gentlemen! Much appreciated. At 5.4 I can't imagine needing to place much pro. However, it's with CMC and I'm not sure how they're gonna run this or what they're gonna want out of the climbing teams. I'm hoping a handful of passive gear is gonna be fine. I'm bringing some shoulder slings for the bolts, as well.

When's the last time everyone went up the Cables Route? Eyebolts are still sturdy?

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Re: Rack for Cables Route?

Postby crossfitter » Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:06 pm

forbins_mtn wrote:Amazing info, gentlemen! Much appreciated. At 5.4 I can't imagine needing to place much pro. However, it's with CMC and I'm not sure how they're gonna run this or what they're gonna want out of the climbing teams. I'm hoping a handful of passive gear is gonna be fine. I'm bringing some shoulder slings for the bolts, as well.

When's the last time everyone went up the Cables Route? Eyebolts are still sturdy?


Image

They are all 3/4" glue-in monsters. You'll snap your rope or have your body ripped in half before those suckers go anywhere. If you need any more info you can get tons of opinions here: http://mountainproject.com/v/cable-route/105754720
- A mountain is not a checkbox to be ticked
- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains
- Judgment and experience are the two most important pieces of gear you own
- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers
- Courage cannot be bought at REI or carried with you in your rucksack


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