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Base repairs/DIY splitboards

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Base repairs/DIY splitboards

Postby CAVUfool » Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:09 pm

Hey ya'all,

Wondering if anyone has experience with the Voile split decision kit and/or base repairs? I installed the kit on an old deck a couple months ago. I'm having a couple problems and hoping others have encountered the same issues.

I tried filling the holes in the base with p-tex first, but the tackiness of the skins was enough to pull the p-tex out. So then I tried some "5 minute" epoxy. Most of this pulled out too. Then I used some longer dry time epoxy for the additional strength, and on my last trip two of the epoxy plugs pulled out. The problem seems to be adhesion to the metal on the expossed nuts in the base (and perhaps the effect of the cold temperatures). Does anyone know of a better material to fill the base over the t-nuts?

Also, the heel riser bars do not stay in the upright position. This one also seems related to temperature because when I weight them at home they work fine. But out on the trail the instantly pop down once I put my weight on them. So frustrating. Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Thanks!
"Once, when I was small and only just beginning to take my first steps, the world seemed huge and enigmatic... But as I got older, I began to lose my amazement. The... mountains gave me the gift to immerse myself once more in that child's perception of the world at its purest and most true. And now it's hard to say that I'm simply in the mountains, for the mountains are also in me. ...Maybe, I realize now, I never really leave them." Valery Babanov

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Re: Base repairs/DIY splitboards

Postby slopestyle » Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:19 pm

I'm a skier, not a boarder, but I'll try and help you with your base repair problem. I am in no means a ski prep, but I have been working on my own skis for about 10 years now, this is mostly trial and error stuff that I have figured out over those years. I'm sure that some of the pros on here will have different info.

The first thing to do when doing any base repair is to make sure that you have the area thoroughly cleaned. You'll want to take a knife or sharp razor blade and clean off any frayed strands of base material around the damaged area...this will help when you get to the waxing stages and will also provide a nice smooth surface for the PTex. Next, don't burn your PTex when your applying it, I made the mistake of repairing my AT skis after about 7 rum and cokes and 3 beers, now I have a burn streak that goes along quite a bit of one of my skis. The burnt carbon also cracks and falls out easier, IMO. I find that you can avoid alot of the carbon build up by keeping the candle close to your body when applying, this might just be a wives tale but I believe it. Next, if you have a full on base shot I've found that filling the hole completely in one round works alot better than filling it in layers and letting it dry between each layer, one of my friends lives by that philosophy but I find him re-doing jobs already done more than me. Allow a small amount of PTex to spill over the top of the base area, this way you can smooth it down without a dimple. Now let the PTex cool, I always give it about an hour or so at least. If you try to scrape the extra off while the PTex is still warm you will damage the bond to the base material. Even if it feels cool on the surface deeper dings might still be warm inside. After you have the damaged areas filled up take your metal scraper and bust down the extra PTex until it is nice and level with the rest of the base. Now it's time to wax 'em up. The first thing that I always do is take a brass brush and rough up the base, just a bit. I've been told that this helps to open up the base layers pores to accept wax as well has help fuse the PTex to the base better. You don't want to put 1/8 inch gouges in the base, just enough to rough it up. After that apply the wax. You can either drip the wax on or crayon it on. The first approach you place the wax block on the iron and make what is basically a series of 'S' turns in dripped wax all the way along the ski. For the crayon approach you take the wax block and chalk it on like your coloring with a crayon. The next step might be where your going wrong. I've seen alot of my buddies holding the wax iron on their skis for way to long, especially over freshly PTexed areas. If you do this you will crack the bond of the base layer to the PTex and then the repair is worthless. You want to make quick moves that melt the wax as you go. Once you have a glassy coat over the width of the ski after the iron passes you have successfully waxed your skis. After that its all about scraping the excess wax off.

Sorry, that dialogue got a bit long winded...hopefully it helps
Life's journey is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "HOLY s**t!!...WHAT A HELL OF A RIDE!!!!"

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Re: Base repairs/DIY splitboards

Postby Lhotse » Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:26 pm

Contact Dean Whitehead at mnttechnologies.com. He splits many many boards and mounted the hardware on my board. I havent had any problems with mine. My board is under the testimonials link. Salomon Fastback.
"Tommorrow Is Promised to No One" ..Walter Payton...Brian Rush

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Re: Base repairs/DIY splitboards

Postby daver » Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:49 pm

How long did it take you to do the conversion? I'm thinking of doing this myself.

http://www.splitboard.com/talk/ is a good resource

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