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Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Information on peaks other than the CO 14ers and 13ers.
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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby Aug_Dog » Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:39 pm

Scott P wrote:
That said, what is the best approach for Eagles Nest?


Probably Cataract Lake/South Ridge (at least if "best" means easiest):

http://www.summitpost.org/cataract-lake-south-ridge-route/160648

It is probably the easiest route. The East Ridge is more rugged and the Elliot Ridge is longer. I haven't done the Piney Lake route, but it is probably harder than the Cataract Lake/South Ridge route.


Any thoughts on Peak C and its class?
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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby Scott P » Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:01 pm

I haven't done Peak C yet, but it's on the list.
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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby kaiman » Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:13 pm

Aug_Dog wrote:
Scott P wrote:
That said, what is the best approach for Eagles Nest?


Probably Cataract Lake/South Ridge (at least if "best" means easiest):

http://www.summitpost.org/cataract-lake-south-ridge-route/160648

It is probably the easiest route. The East Ridge is more rugged and the Elliot Ridge is longer. I haven't done the Piney Lake route, but it is probably harder than the Cataract Lake/South Ridge route.


Any thoughts on Peak C and its class?


Peak C is a definite Class 4 with mixed climbing on snow and rock. I climbed it from the Piney Lake side (along with Mount Powell) a couple of summers ago. The hardest part is actually getting to the base of the mountain as you have to scramble along a side creek, go over a saddle to get to the small basin with some unnamed lakes below the start of the route. See the route description here: http://www.summitpost.org/southwest-couloir/161340
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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby boudreaux » Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:29 am

Chicago Transplant wrote:You can start up Powell before you get to Kneeknocker and follow some grass ramps/ledges until you can get to a break in the ridge, cross it, and pick up the upper standard route and avoid kneeknockers snow and keep it 2+/easy 3. Kiefer and I picked up the ridge somewhere along there as the ridge right out of the pass is harder. We ended up going down one of the gullies Floyd mentions as a possible snow climb, it was a loose mess dry.


I've done that route you describe, but only as a descent with Steve Knapp about 20 years ago. I attempted the ridge over to Eagles Nest, but dropped down into the upper Cataract basin after bailing off the ridge and then reclimbed Powell via a nasty couloir west of the summit to retreive Steve off the summit and descend your route. One of the dumbest things I ever did, telling Steve to wait at the summit of Powell, when he could have waited at the north pass. Hey, live and learn, young and dumb, whatever! Plus side was we saw a lot of goats at that pass!

That north pass is definetly a 2+ climb with views of both Piney and Cataract drainages, Pk C & Eagles Nest westside problems!

Scott P: Peak C is gonna blow your mind. I didn't do it from the classic snowclimb, but it is a great climb from any route!

Palikona: Whatever you end up doing, this is gonna be an epic trip for you, The Gores are that beautiful and rugged!
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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby mtnmaneric » Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:43 am

I'd say Peak C is only 3rd Class. Some decent exposure, but the route is amazing and worth every effort!

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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby CORed » Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:32 pm

Scott P wrote:
That said, what is the best approach for Eagles Nest?


Probably Cataract Lake/South Ridge (at least if "best" means easiest):

http://www.summitpost.org/cataract-lake-south-ridge-route/160648

It is probably the easiest route. The East Ridge is more rugged and the Elliot Ridge is longer. I haven't done the Piney Lake route, but it is probably harder than the Cataract Lake/South Ridge route.


Point 13099 on the East Ridge route to Eagles Nest is a worthwhile destination if you don't want to tackle the difficult route from there to the Eagles Nest summit. It's just a long, steep class 2 climb, and the views from there are fantastic.

For Eagles Nest itself, the North Ridge is also a possibility. In 1992, I took this ridge, and the couloir to the north of it onto the main ridge of Eagles Nest, and encountered nothing worse than class 3. I didn't summit, as I got chased off the main ridge by lightning, so I'm not sure what the rest of the climb was like, but the East Ridge route also traverses this section of the main ridge.
Last edited by CORed on Sat Aug 03, 2013 7:29 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Easier Gore peaks or passes/saddles?

Postby CORed » Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:44 pm

boudreaux wrote:
Chicago Transplant wrote:You can start up Powell before you get to Kneeknocker and follow some grass ramps/ledges until you can get to a break in the ridge, cross it, and pick up the upper standard route and avoid kneeknockers snow and keep it 2+/easy 3. Kiefer and I picked up the ridge somewhere along there as the ridge right out of the pass is harder. We ended up going down one of the gullies Floyd mentions as a possible snow climb, it was a loose mess dry.


I've done that route you describe, but only as a descent with Steve Knapp about 20 years ago. I attempted the ridge over to Eagles Nest, but dropped down into the upper Cataract basin after bailing off the ridge and then reclimbed Powell via a nasty couloir west of the summit to retreive Steve off the summit and descend your route. One of the dumbest things I ever did, telling Steve to wait at the summit of Powell, when he could have waited at the north pass. Hey, live and learn, young and dumb, whatever! Plus side was we saw a lot of goats at that pass!

That north pass is definetly a 2+ climb with views of both Piney and Cataract drainages, Pk C & Eagles Nest westside problems!

Scott P: Peak C is gonna blow your mind. I didn't do it from the classic snowclimb, but it is a great climb from any route!

Palikona: Whatever you end up doing, this is gonna be an epic trip for you, The Gores are that beautiful and rugged!


I'm pretty sure that when I climbed Powell, I actually crossed the ridge above Kneeknocker Pass. I also took a descent rout that would make a good ascent route, if you could find it. My climbing partner and I went from the main summit to the lower west summit. From there we saw what looked like a continuous grassy slope from there to the floor of the valley that leads to the pass to the Catarcact drainage. Much to our chagrin, when we got lower on that slope, we discovered a cliff band about 200 feet high at the bottom of it, which was not visible from above. Fortunately, we found a ramp that got us through the cliff band. I suspect finding this ramp from below might be fairly difficult and time consuming. It's been about thirty years since I descended the route, so I doubt I could find it easily myself.

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