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Quality, close, low scrambles?

Information on peaks other than the CO 14ers and 13ers.
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Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Monster5 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:36 am

Hi all,

Recently, I've become hooked on the "low-hanging fruit" and I'm trying to compile a winter wish list of quality low (<13K) scrambles near Golden. Specifically, I'm looking for 1/2 day scrambles between class 3 to low 5th within a 45 min drive from Golden. I don't particularly care about ranked vs unranked - mainly just looking at the quality of the scramble. These types of climbs are great for taking friends along when time is a factor.

As an example, I've checked out:

Crescent (favorite so far)
2nd Flatiron
El Camino Royale
Ralston Buttes/S Ralston
Blue (actually we had more fun on a nearby outcrop)
etc.

Does anybody have any suggestions? One or two specific routes/peaks would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Ryan
"Mountains are the means, the man is the end. The goal is not to reach the tops of mountains, but to improve the man." - Walter Bonatti

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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby ChrisinAZ » Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:23 am

This all might be a bit far for your criteria, but Horsetooth and Greyrock are both nice scrambles near Ft. Collins, with plenty of opportunity to make them tougher if you so choose!

Also, you pretty much can't go wrong with just charging up the hillside on Waterton, Big Thompson, or Poudre Canyons...
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Brian C » Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:20 am

If you are comfortable counting and soloing low-fifth as scrambling routes, then the Flatirons are chock full of quality scrambles. Here are a couple good ones to get you started...

Fumbledeedum - 5.0
Royal Arch - 4th
Third Flatiron (standard) - 5.2
First Flatiron (Baker's Way) - 5.4 (one move, the rest is 5.0-5.2)
Dodge Block - 5.0
South Shanahan Slab (SE Ridge) - 4th - 5.0
Tangen Tunnel - 4th
Hammerhead - 5.0
Der Freischutz - There are 2 routes that are 5.0
The Slab - 5.2
Front Porch (East Face) - 5.0
Cavernous Sinus (Easily one of the best adventures in the Flatirons. Good luck finding it!) - 5.0
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby crossfitter » Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:36 am

Brian C wrote:If you are comfortable counting and soloing low-fifth as scrambling routes, then the Flatirons are chock full of quality scrambles. Here are a couple good ones to get you started...

Fumbledeedum - 5.0
Royal Arch - 4th
Third Flatiron (standard) - 5.2
First Flatiron (Baker's Way) - 5.4 (one move, the rest is 5.0-5.2)
Dodge Block - 5.0
South Shanahan Slab (SE Ridge) - 4th - 5.0
Tangen Tunnel - 4th
Hammerhead - 5.0
Der Freischutz - There are 2 routes that are 5.0
The Slab - 5.2
Front Porch (East Face) - 5.0
Cavernous Sinus (Easily one of the best adventures in the Flatirons. Good luck finding it!) - 5.0


Also Freeway on the Second Flatiron. If you aren't familiar with low 5th class it might be a good idea to go with someone who knows the route first. To steal a quote from summitpost, "As a rule of thumb, class 3 and 4 routes on the Flatirons are more technically challenging than routes of the same rating in, say, RMNP or IPW. The sandstone slabs have a way of luring the inexperienced into spots from which both progress and retreat suddenly appear problematic. "

Also make sure to research the down-climb on the route. Some of the down-climbs are not intuitive and you may want to bring a rope to rap off.
- A mountain is not a checkbox to be ticked
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- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Furthermore » Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:52 am

If your looking at peaks, these might be some good ones with scrambling.

Jefferson County:
-Cathedral Spires/Bishop Rock. 3rd class to 5.2
-Raleigh Peak. One move of 5.0, long approach.
-The Castle. 5.4. Really good.
-Sheeprock. Acid Crack is good 5.5
-Eldorado Mountain. 4th Class
-Riley Peak. 3rd Class

Douglas County:
Sheeps Nose. Class 4.
Turkey Rocks. Class 3.

Boulder County:
Forsythe Rock. Class 4. Some access problems.

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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Derek » Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:05 am

To add to Furthermore's Jeff Co list:
Plenty of scrambling from class 3-5 on the Three Sisters summit areas in the Three Sisters Jeff Co Open Space park. Easiest route on the hardest "sister" is class 4, but plenty of opportunity to make it 5.

Monster5 wrote:Blue (actually we had more fun on a nearby outcrop)

Sounds like you found "Baby Blue", huh? :) Fun little area there...

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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Monster5 » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:15 am

Thanks for the suggestions! Plenty to keep one busy for several weekends. I really enjoy the Flatiron routes and the suggested peaks sound great as well!

Derek - not sure what it is. It is an awesome ~70 ft igneous intrusion at the bottom of a drainage with one c3 access and a whole lot of 5th class potential (below). I thought Baby Blue is higher? I'll have to look.

It seems the exploratory Front Range trips are becoming almost as satisfying as the higher peaks, albeit with lacking views and more bushwacking.

outcrop.jpg
outcrop.jpg (121.01 KiB) Viewed 1028 times
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Rich H » Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:55 pm

the east ridge of Coal Creek Pk is 3rd to 5th class...did it this last spring...i think it is on the back side of Crescent if i remember right...however as so many of the Peaks close in the start was part on private property.
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Monster5 » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:36 pm

Thanks guys! I'll check them out. Also, I think I've narrowed Cavernous Sinus down to a few spots. I think that will be on this weekend's agenda, given the forecast.
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Brian C » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:44 pm

Monster5 wrote:... Also, I think I've narrowed Cavernous Sinus down to a few spots. I think that will be on this weekend's agenda, given the forecast.


Sweet! I hope hope you find it. There was absolutely zero sign of human interaction in the few times I've been there so I don't think it's visited much. Let me know if you do happen across it. (and keep it a secret)

Image
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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Monster5 » Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:52 pm

Found it! Thanks for the suggestion, Brian - awesome area. Arches, yodeling, bushwacking, and all.

cs.JPG
areed20 entering Cavernous Sinus
cs.JPG (81.7 KiB) Viewed 681 times



Brian C wrote:Sweet! I hope hope you find it. There was absolutely zero sign of human interaction in the few times I've been there so I don't think it's visited much. Let me know if you do happen across it. (and keep it a secret)
"Mountains are the means, the man is the end. The goal is not to reach the tops of mountains, but to improve the man." - Walter Bonatti

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Re: Quality, close, low scrambles?

Postby Brian C » Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:17 pm

Monster5 wrote:Found it! Thanks for the suggestion, Brian - awesome area. Arches, yodeling, bushwacking, and all.


NICE! Gerry Roach would be proud. Haha!
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