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Anyone climb South Wilson?

Information on peaks other than the CO 14ers and 13ers.
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Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby globreal » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:11 am

I am looking to find out about South Wilson...the unranked 14er that is at the end of the ridge south of Mt. Wilson. Has anyone out there climbed it?

I would like to find out what would be the safest/easiest route and how difficult it might be. Is technical gear needed or can you make it with a scramble?

Any beta, insight, route info would be appreciated.

Thanks...
God is our refuge and strength, an ever-present help in trouble.
~Psalm 46:1

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby globreal » Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:47 pm

bumping this back up...
God is our refuge and strength, an ever-present help in trouble.
~Psalm 46:1

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby Alpine » Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:54 pm

You probably already know this, and it is as far from current as you can get, but since I just read it (again) yesterday and found it interesting, I will post.

Borneman's guide to 14ers tells that Mt WIlson was first climbed via this route by A.D. Wilson and his half-brother Franklin Rhoda during the Hayden Survey, Sept 13 1874. About all it says is this: "The south ridge of Mt Wilson with a series of sharp needles over 14,000 feet remains a formidable route."

More fascinating info can be found in Beuhler's "Roof of the Rockies" which I highly recommend. I need to re-read it.

You certainly don't hear much about it.

I have kind of wondered whether or not it is the San Juans equivalent to the SW ridge on Little Bear, in that it presents an unusual route to a difficult summit that might possibly avoid some (standard-route) hazards at the expense of encountering others. My guess is that both routes will become more popular over time.

Looking forward to other's actual experiences on this route.

If you go, let us know!
"You know I've always loved you...and you know I always will." Third Day

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby Dorje1018 » Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:14 pm

You are looking at a scree and rubble scramble to the top of S. Wilson via the south. The main difficulties remain between S. Wilson and Wilson.
Image
"Climb if you will but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence and that momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step, and from the beginning think what might be the end"

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby CarpeDM » Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:11 pm

Britt, I was just on Mt Wilson today and took a look in the direction of S wilson. I failed to get photos ( we had to leave the summit in a hurry as weather was building), but it did look more serious than just walking over there.

Alpine's note from Borneman strikes me as a nice description.

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:03 pm

Britt, I might consider going up KP, taking a line left of the headwall, then up to the saddle and the ridge. Just a best guess from looking at it.

Or if hitting El Diente and the traverse, descending MW on the KP side to the apron, then traversing over into the MW-SMW saddle and up the ridge.

Just my 2c, FWIW.


-Jim



Image

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:05 pm

CarpeDM wrote:Britt, I was just on Mt Wilson today and took a look in the direction of S wilson. I failed to get photos ( we had to leave the summit in a hurry as weather was building), but it did look more serious than just walking over there.



Dave, congrats on your "pre-finisher." :lol:

And good luck on Longs!!


=D> =D> =D>

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby Boggy B » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:14 pm

Britt,

I remember thinking it looks like a long day and would be surprised to learn of a class-4 route given this perspective from El Diente:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vKPSJdCVCLw/Ti4-t9_LNOI/AAAAAAAAAZI/EloXZ0uNk1E/s1440/wilson_s_wilson.jpg

This shot from Mount Wilson:
http://www.14ers.com/images/trips/eldi/71_2011070800175627_l.jpg

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Tue Jul 26, 2011 7:54 am

Nice photos, Michael. They illustrate the difficulty of getting from MW to SMW directly.

If SMW is the goal (and not the MW-SMW traverse) I would think a south ridge approach better:



Image

The area circled in blue is the MW-SMW traverse. Perhaps SMW is better gained from the other side (south ridge.)


Yes, Britt, this drawing seen from lower in KP I think shows it.




Image

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby oldschool » Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:00 am

Hi Britt...Mike here. I am heading into the Wilson's to do all 3 between Aug 4-8. You gonna be in there during that time? Would be nice to climb with you and include SMW as part of the trip.
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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby globreal » Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:09 am

Here is a picture I took of South Wilson in June 26, 2010.
With the higher amount snow fall we had this year, come the second week in Aug., the snow may be about the same as in this photo.
Attachments
HPIM5240_edited.jpg
South Wilson from just below El Diente summit
HPIM5240_edited.jpg (88.72 KiB) Viewed 417 times
God is our refuge and strength, an ever-present help in trouble.
~Psalm 46:1

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Re: Anyone climb South Wilson?

Postby globreal » Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:18 am

oldschool wrote:Hi Britt...Mike here. I am heading into the Wilson's to do all 3 between Aug 4-8. You gonna be in there during that time? Would be nice to climb with you and include SMW as part of the trip.



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God is our refuge and strength, an ever-present help in trouble.
~Psalm 46:1

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