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"The Index": Beta?

Information on peaks other than the CO 14ers and 13ers.
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"The Index": Beta?

Postby TomPierce » Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:38 pm

Howdy all,

A buddy and I are making plans to go down to the San Juans this summer to climb some technical peaks. One peak on our loose hit list is called The Index, and apparently the easiest route up is rated 5.9. I've done some internet research, admittedly nothing too rigorous, and have read the brief and cryptic description in a San Juan guidebook. No luck on summitpost but maybe I framed the inquiry wrong. Nonetheless detailed info has yet to emerge. Does anyone have any detailed info on the route, e.g. what's the line? What's the crux type (crack/slab/face)? Etc. Any beta out there? This kind of climbing is always an adventure, but I'd like to have some route info beforehand so I'm not, for example, shut down because the crux is an offwidth and my largest piece is only a #4 cam. Conversely I'd hate to lug more gear than I need, I'm not the most enthusiastic pack mule. I have some other sources I can try to tap but thought I'd start here. Many thanks in advance,
-Tom

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby mattpayne11 » Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:49 pm

Have you tried Mountainproject.com?

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby TomPierce » Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:08 pm

Matt: Yep, tried that as well. I know of a fellow who has done it but don't know him personally. I suppose I could try to track him down but have no contact info at hand. Thought I'd see if anyone here has info.
-Tom

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby Neil » Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:28 pm

Tom,

I'm sure you already went down this route, but the only climber to sign The Index's register on Lists of John is none other than Mike Garratt of Garratt and Martin fame. No doubt he would have reliable beta. Regardless, sounds like a great adventure. All the best on your attempt -- it would be great to read about your trip.

Neil
"On the edge of the porch in the warm evening night
Throwing the bone for the dog I see two passing lights
Well, I wonder where that driver's bound
Is there someone, somewhere, someway out there that I've not found"
-Driving Song

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby TomPierce » Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:43 pm

Neil: Yep, he was the fellow to whom I was referring. I know of him but not a personal connection...unless you count that I personally own one of his books! :lol: I'm pretty sure I could track him down but I've always been impressed with the amount of info out there in the 14ers.com community so thought I'd try here first. But yeah, if nothing pops up I'll track him down. Really odd that there's so little out there on this peak, I hope that doesn't mean it's a loose horror-fest that no sane person would climb.
-Tom

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby rijaca » Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:32 pm

Tom,

There was a TR on 14erWorld. Check your PMs.

I believe the Index is the left most summit.
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Last edited by rijaca on Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby TomPierce » Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:47 pm

rijaca: Just sent a PM. Many thanks!
-Tom

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby Kiefer » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:22 pm

Tom,
I call up Aaron Ihinger. He's been Mike's 'rope-gunner' for a little while now and see if I can get a hold of him that way for beta.
We'll be down that way in late July-early August for some peaks and The Index is also on our tentitive list.
I'll send you a PM when I hear something.

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby PKelley » Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:33 am

Tom -

Would you mind sharing what you find out? What other peaks are you thinking about?
The Dalai Lama when asked what surprised him most about humanity:
“Man. Because he sacrifices his health in order to make money. Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health. And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived.”

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby TomPierce » Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:13 am

Hey Pat: Sure, absolutely. If you're OK with it, send me your email address via PM and I can send you some stuff now.

As for the trip, it's obviously just in the planning stage and the current thinking is that our 2 top priorites are The Index (for me) and a spur of Monitor Peak for my buddy (he fell on it years ago and wants another go at it). So long as we're doing that spur I'd be interested in the East Face of Monitor. Other peaks of interest are Peaks 15 & 16, Twin Thumbs and Little Finger, all 5th class. Much more in the area but it'll be only a week, tops, and with the weather it's unlikely we'd knock even half that number off. We'll see...
-Tom

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby sgladbach » Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:54 pm

If you are looking for 5th class routes, Twin Thumbs will dissapoint. Hard class 3 on each thumb (maybe class 4). Peak 16 is class 3/4. Peak 15 is tougher, but I've climbed it free-solo w/ a 30' rap on the descent (and I am NOT a big 5th class guy!!). The first time on !it, i was more intimidated and took a belay for one pitch, but the leadet free-soloed. We still rapped the 30' section on the descent. Paks 17 (Little Finger) and the Index are a different story. 5.7-5.9, hard to protect , very off-widht. i have failed at Peak 17 and my buddy failed at Index on the same trip. Wrong pro and my nuts were too small!

Pat, when are you interested in going in? (We discussed it two years ago, but nothing came of it)

Steve
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"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?

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Re: "The Index": Beta?

Postby FCSquid » Wed Apr 07, 2010 2:15 pm

sgladbach wrote:Wrong pro and my nuts were too small!


A common condition that's derailed many a summit-bid. Thank you folks, I'll be here all week ...
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