Long's Peak current conditions

[ChrisAthey]

I'm hoping to climb Long's Peak this winter as the winter seems more gentle than others. In reading trip reports it sounds pretty clean going through the Keyhole route, but I'm curious about the snow pack, and avalanche danger Long's has historically had. Does it seem that most of the avalanche danger is minimal this winter due to the windswept conditions? I'm also curious if Long's in the winter needs to be treated more as a overnight climb, or if it's still doable in a day?

Thanks!

[pbakwin]

Indeed conditions have been much drier than normal due to lack of snowfall and persistent, very strong wind. Conditions have been really quite good/fast (for winter) on the Keyhole and Loft routes, when the wind isn't knocking you down. We also climbed the NW Couloir 10 days ago, using microspikes the whole way (though often even that was overkill). I do know that there has been several inches of snow Monday and today (plus WIND), so things may have changed some. Is Longs doable in a day in winter? Yes, certainly. It's a slower than summer, but if you're comfortable with these conditions it's not vastly slower.

Note that CAIC has the Front Range listed as LOW avy danger at all altitudes, and has been for several days.

[justiner]

As of Sunday, the Loft Route is fairly snow-free - or at least most of the snow is avoidable - I opted to avoid most snow, and just climb the slabby ledges to the climber's L. I would get a early start, as the snow field below the Notch is always something I find a little problematic, given the nice steep slabs below it. I didn't want to post hole in it, so I opted to go as high as possible and traverse right below the final cliffband. Homestretch is almost completely snow free. Descended via Cables, which is easy going until the last coupla meters, where I had to put on crampons again to get to the eyebolt. Cables itself is almost dry.

Pretty slow going, I thought, which I think was because of the warm snow conditions, and because I brought too much gear. It was almost 11 hours for me up there, which is nuts. I've routinely done harder routes on Longs in half the time.

I found an axe/crampons pretty handy. Spikes could be nice below treeline.

And yeah, windy.

[TomPierce]

Chris,
As to the day climb question, my vote is to do it as a day climb if you are fit enough to do so. I've done it several times as a winter day climb and it's a long day (pun intended) but by no means a herculean task. Start early, have a good weather forecast and of course have a good headlamp. The problem with Longs as a winter overnighter is that the bulk of your travel will be well above treeline. If you camp in the trees you just don't save much time/distance. If you hump all the gear needed for a winter overnight up to the Boulderfield, note that Longs is notoriously windy in the winter, making the likelihood of a good night's sleep probably pretty slim, not to mention the pre-summit fatigue of having hauled all that gear up there. If you nonetheless choose to camp there, I'd recommend collapsing and securing your tent before leaving for the summit, or at least having it really well tied off. You might be just fine, but the winter winds up there can be quite impressive.

Good luck on your climb, Longs in winter is a special place.

-Tom

[Eagle Eye]

Don't forget about these two as winter routes (from the west/and south) Trough Couloir from Glacier Gorge TH, and Keplingers Couloir from Wild Basin/Copeland Lake TH.
Best Regards!

[jmanner]

Hey, anyone have the mileage for Glacier Gorge?

NW Couloir 10 days ago, using microspikes the whole way

Is that the one between the Keyhole and the trough?

[alpha]

Hey, anyone have the mileage for Glacier Gorge?

NW Couloir 10 days ago, using microspikes the whole way

Is that the one between the Keyhole and the trough?

Trough route via Glacier Gorge: 11.6 miles RT (http://www.summitpost.org/longs-peak-vi ... ude/492116" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... not my trip report)
That said, I have done it and the effort level is entirely dependent on snow conditions and recent travel. If you get a packed trail to Black Lake and firm snow beyond, it may not be too bad. I've had times though where no one had gone beyond Mills Lake and we were sinking into deep snow even with snowshoes.

Most I've seen that try to do this camp at/near Black Lake.

[TomPierce]

The NW Couloir Route is indeed the one between the Keyhole and the Trough. 4th class/low 5th depending on the exact line you take, one of my favorite routes. I wouldn't, however, do it in really high wind, I thought the exit onto the summit was low angle but a bit exposed. Wouldn't want to get blown off balance up there. But a beautiful, thought provoking route.

-Tom

[SchralpTheGnar]

From a pure amount of effort expended, doing it as a day trip is so much better than an overnighter in winter time. Just start early, stay moving and you will stay warm. Overnighting all your stuff to the boulderfield and waking up freezing freaking cold and getting moving just sucks.

[pbakwin]

I'm just going to say that if you want to do Longs in winter this weekend looks like a fantastic opportunity. Conditions are great, weather forecast is great. Microspikes and maybe an ice ax would pretty much do it (for the Keyhole Route). Plus, "winter" only lasts for another 16 days!

[ChrisAthey]

Thanks everyone! Definitely appreciate the insight and advice!