Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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macgyver
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Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by macgyver »

Wondering if anyone has recently hiked Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker, without doing the traverse from El D? I’ve seen pics from a thread on climbing Diente and saw a good amount of snow. Just curious on conditions of that snow and the direct route up to Wilson from Kilpacker. Would an axe be recommended on the short class 3 approach to the summit? Heading up there this weekend. Thanks.
-MacG
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ORION
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by ORION »

There's a thread right now entitled "Current conditions El Diente South Slopes"...it might help you.
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by macgyver »

Thanks. Yeah, I was checking that out but more curious about the route in the basin up to Wilson - past the cutoff that goes up to Diente. Snow depth, conditions, etc, since we'll be hiking up and down that route.
-MacG
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by Phill the Thrill »

This is second-hand info, but I just spoke to a friend this morning who climbed Mt. Wilson via Kilpacker this past weekend. There is still a good amount of snow in the couloirs, enough that he found an ice axe very useful and put on microspikes for a little more traction. There was a bit of postholing on the descent back to Kilpacker but not too bad. He also mentioned that it is a steep climb with lots of loose rock, so take things slowly and carefully.
"Everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it." - Andy Rooney
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by desertdog »

macgyver wrote:Wondering if anyone has recently hiked Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker, without doing the traverse from El D? I’ve seen pics from a thread on climbing Diente and saw a good amount of snow. Just curious on conditions of that snow and the direct route up to Wilson from Kilpacker. Would an axe be recommended on the short class 3 approach to the summit? Heading up there this weekend. Thanks.
We are planning on this for 7/24. I've been thinking switching to the Navajo Lake route if there's too much snow on the Kilpacker route. I would really appreciate it you could post some conditions and pictures from your climb!
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by macgyver »

Phill the Thrill wrote:This is second-hand info, but I just spoke to a friend this morning who climbed Mt. Wilson via Kilpacker this past weekend. There is still a good amount of snow in the couloirs, enough that he found an ice axe very useful and put on microspikes for a little more traction. There was a bit of postholing on the descent back to Kilpacker but not too bad. He also mentioned that it is a steep climb with lots of loose rock, so take things slowly and carefully.
Good to know. If your friend has any useful advice or observations and are on 14ers, I'm open to a PM or email.

Desertdog - Heading to Chi Basin the Monday after but will try to get something up if I have time in between.
-MacG
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by desertdog »

macgyver wrote:
Phill the Thrill wrote:This is second-hand info, but I just spoke to a friend this morning who climbed Mt. Wilson via Kilpacker this past weekend. There is still a good amount of snow in the couloirs, enough that he found an ice axe very useful and put on microspikes for a little more traction. There was a bit of postholing on the descent back to Kilpacker but not too bad. He also mentioned that it is a steep climb with lots of loose rock, so take things slowly and carefully.
Good to know. If your friend has any useful advice or observations and are on 14ers, I'm open to a PM or email.

Desertdog - Heading to Chi Basin the Monday after but will try to get something up if I have time in between.
Mac - Thanks! We are doing CB after Wilson too. Great minds think alike! If you don't have time to post could you please leave me a VM with your thoughts on the route? 505 603 2931. I'd owe you a beer. I tried this route last fall and the snow got the best of me (no gear). Richard
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by macgyver »

Will do Desertdog. I'm not thinking this is a popular route right now b/c of the low replies. I did El D last year and was dreading the miles of talus/scree this year... didn't think I'd be dreading the snow!
-MacG
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by Nelson »

Hey guys,

I'm headed up to Kilpacker basin tomorrow and then the traverse on Thursday. I've done this before and it is a good route. I'll let you know how it goes this time.
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by desertdog »

Nelson wrote:Hey guys,

I'm headed up to Kilpacker basin tomorrow and then the traverse on Thursday. I've done this before and it is a good route. I'll let you know how it goes this time.
Good luck. I did ED from Kilpacker last year and really liked the area. Like I said to Mac I would really appreciate knowing the snow conditions if you come off of MW back into Kilpacker.
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by macgyver »

Summited Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker today. There were a few scattered snow fields around 20+ yards that were suitable for microspikes both in the early morning and late morning (was heading down by 10:15a). One field was about 100+ and somewhat steep. These could be avoided by hiking steep-ish rock, most wasn't that stable. We put on the spikes and went though or up them. If you want to have fun and glissade a little, bring an axe. otherwise not needed. Long day, but fun.

I have pictures but I'm on my phone and can't upload. Trust me, with microspikes and any sort of agility, you'll be fine hiking via Kilpacker.
-MacG
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Re: Route conditions from Kilpacker to Mt. Wilson

Post by desertdog »

macgyver wrote:Summited Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker today. There were a few scattered snow fields around 20+ yards that were suitable for microspikes both in the early morning and late morning (was heading down by 10:15a). One field was about 100+ and somewhat steep. These could be avoided by hiking steep-ish rock, most wasn't that stable. We put on the spikes and went though or up them. If you want to have fun and glissade a little, bring an axe. otherwise not needed. Long day, but fun.

I have pictures but I'm on my phone and can't upload. Trust me, with microspikes and any sort of agility, you'll be fine hiking via Kilpacker.
Thanks Mac!
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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