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The Hourglass as an ice climb?

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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The Hourglass as an ice climb?

Postby scramble » Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:15 am

Does it ever get nice to climb in the fall or early winter? WI-what (on average)? Don't worry, almost certainly not going to run out and do it anytime soon.... right now I'm only curious to learn more : ) Any info would be greatly appreciated. My internet searching skills are failing me.

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Re: The Hourglass as an ice climb?

Postby Dave B » Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:25 am

derp...

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Last edited by Dave B on Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:26 am, edited 2 times in total.
"There is no cheating in climbing, only lying." - Semi-Rad

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Re: The Hourglass as an ice climb?

Postby BenfromtheEast » Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:25 am

Thoughts on Little Bear's Hourglass:

My guess is that the best ice conditions you'd find would still involve a lot of bad ice and mixed climbing on loose rock. I hear more about thin ice with rotten sections...really never about good ice in the Hourglass. And I don't think there's a good way to protect the climb on the way up other than trusting an old rope that's probably frozen into said ice. I'd say if you're going to put the research and planning into trying to find good conditions for the Hourglass, your first preference should be as a snow climb in the spring and your second preference should be as dry rock in the late summer or early fall.

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Re: The Hourglass as an ice climb?

Postby scramble » Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:32 am

Aw, okay, thanks. I guess that's why I haven't heard about people doing it as an ice climb.... Was just curious.....

I did it as a snow climb last spring, super fun yeah!

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Re: The Hourglass as an ice climb?

Postby I Man » Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:38 am

Its tough to find routes like the Hourglass that come in as ice climbs in Colorado, though if it did it would probably go at AI2 with some mixed I would guess, pro would be tough.

If you are looking for alpine ice look no further than the Park, considering you live in Boulder.

Occasionally in the fall or spring some of CO's highest peaks will have an ice route. Check out Furthermore's TR from North Apostle this past June...we went up "Freezer Burn" which had about 100ft of AI2 at the exit.

Personally, Lincoln Falls is my favorite recommendation, Scottish Gully is a 3 pitch WI3- above treeline and you can continue to the summit to make a day out of it.

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