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Unpublished LB Route: TR

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Unpublished LB Route: TR

Postby TomPierce » Fri Jun 21, 2013 10:45 am

All: For those who dread the Hourglass route on Little Bear, I wanted to call attention to Alan Arnette's recent TR on a route we went up last week. I looked over the Roach and Dawson guides and did a little internet research but couldn't find anything published which gave significant information on the route. We are not saying it's any sort of new route, I'm sure it's seen plenty of ascents over the years, but it's apparently not in any guides currently in print. For those who don't like the Hourglass route (one of the ugliest routes on a 14er, IMO) the West Ridge Direct offers an alternative. But note that although the rock is generally pretty good, it is significantly exposed in spots at the 4th, possibly low 5th, class level. But there's no significant chance of rockfall, you're prancing up a steep ridge! :lol: It was a pretty fun route, but descent down the West Ridge Direct would be difficult so you might still need to go down the Hourglass or possibly the NW Face via a few raps, or maybe even via the traverse over to Blanca.

If you go, be sure of your skills and be careful, but it is a relatively high quality alternative to the other LB routes, just fyi.

Climb safe!
-Tom

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Re: Unpublished LB Route: TR

Postby painless4u2 » Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:53 am

And of course there's the SW Ridge route, also "non-published", which avoids the hourglass and gets you South LB.
In their hearts humans plan their course, but the Lord establishes their steps. Proverbs 16:9

Bad decisions often make good stories.

"Well, that didn't go as expected." - Brett Maune

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Re: Unpublished LB Route: TR

Postby Hungry Jack » Fri Jun 21, 2013 12:42 pm

Can the Hourglass also be avoided by traversing right at its entrance, below the cliffs, to what appears to be a "ramp" (or a glorified rubble mound) that might get you above and over?
I need more dehydrogenase.

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Re: Unpublished LB Route: TR

Postby painless4u2 » Fri Jun 21, 2013 4:51 pm

I would think that would lead you here: :shock:

Little Bear West Face.jpg
Little Bear West Face.jpg (181.37 KiB) Viewed 318 times


(with thanks to ameristrat)
In their hearts humans plan their course, but the Lord establishes their steps. Proverbs 16:9

Bad decisions often make good stories.

"Well, that didn't go as expected." - Brett Maune

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Posts: 835
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:12 am

Re: Unpublished LB Route: TR

Postby Hungry Jack » Fri Jun 21, 2013 7:32 pm

It's just a curiosity, more than anything. I don't know if I will ever get much time in the Sangres. If I do, I'll check out Carson's north ridge before anything else.
I need more dehydrogenase.

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