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Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby cmdsuperstar » Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:41 am

I drove home to Boston from Moab on Wednesday when last I heard Mt Wilson was still "up to your knees" in snow. Anyone make it up there this weekend??

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby aliciaf » Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:05 am

I didn't get out there this weekend, but my fiance and some others did. They did El Diente and the traverse to Mt. Wilson yesterday. Spoke briefly with him last night and he didn't specifically mention that there was a lot of snow. The crux rock near the top of Mt. Wilson he said had some snow on the left side, but he was able to avoid it by going up the right side of it.

They were doing Wilson Peak today and should be back in Denver tonight. Maybe one of them will be able to elaborate more on the conditions once they're back.

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby kushrocks » Sun Oct 07, 2012 4:16 pm

Just got back from the Wilsons. Conditions were 95 percent dry 5 percent terrible. Very loose unconsolidated snow on the very top north facing sections of El Diente, Mount Wilson, and Wilson peak. Bring traction and an ice axe. We were very glad we did. Condition reports with photos coming later.

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby JB99 » Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:45 am

Any pics of Wilson's route via Rock of Ages?

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby jmc5040 » Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:56 am

JB99 wrote:Any pics of Wilson's route via Rock of Ages?

I need to load my photos to the computer tonight and will provide some then. The route is dry from Rock of Ages TH to near the rock house. Snow is on the trail from near the rock house to the saddle, but is packed in well. Microspikes make walking on this stretch easy. The only other location that snow exists is when descending the false summit and traversing to the final summit pitch. The right line leading to Wilson Peak has some snow near the bottom, but as you climb towards the summit conditions become dry.
"My senses become heightened and the stresses of life fade with each step I take further from civilization. When I'm in the wilderness my brain and body work seamlessly together to do their finest work - a single flowing track down one of natures high peaks." - Jeremy Jones

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby JB99 » Mon Oct 08, 2012 12:06 pm

Nice. Thanks for the update. I have plenty of crampons. Maybe I'll stop at REI and grab some micro spikes, though, they seem to be preferred traction in the fall for a lot of folks.

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby jmc5040 » Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:33 pm

Here are a few photos of the route up Wilson Peak from Rock of Ages TH. I've only included areas of the route that have snow, the rest is dry. As Kushrocks mentioned, the snow is unconsolidated in the traverse between the false summit and final pitch. It's bootpacked in a bit, but still sketchy and loose if you pick a different line. The same goes for any northern exposure along the traverse from El Diente to Mount Wilson.
IMG_6297_resize.jpg
Rock of Ages trail to the saddle
IMG_6297_resize.jpg (238.24 KiB) Viewed 388 times
IMG_6309_resize.jpg
Traverse from false summit
IMG_6309_resize.jpg (337.42 KiB) Viewed 388 times
IMG_6305_resize.jpg
Final pitch up Wilson Peak
IMG_6305_resize.jpg (347.98 KiB) Viewed 388 times
"My senses become heightened and the stresses of life fade with each step I take further from civilization. When I'm in the wilderness my brain and body work seamlessly together to do their finest work - a single flowing track down one of natures high peaks." - Jeremy Jones

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Re: Wilson/Wilson/Wilson Peak/el Diente Conditions

Postby WillV » Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:49 pm

jmc5040:

Thanks for posting these pics! Knowing the condition of the traverse from the false summit to Wilson Peak was critical, as this is where I had to turn back last year.
Much appreciated!

I imagine things will be quite different after this weekend...

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