Snowmass & Capitol

[hollamby]

Hey everyone,

I am hitting Capitol Friday and Snowmass Saturday. Then heading down to climb Cuelbra on Sunday.

I am looking for any advice on hitting these peaks back to back. I don't have a ton of experience in the Elks but I know the rock is horrible. The weather is looking good. But I am wondering if the Elks hold fog for a while (in general), like the Sangre's. I am looking at starting really early and was hoping fog wouldn't mess with the route. Also how is crossing the log jam in the dark?

I know this is a general post but just looking for any advice for best success with these peaks in one day a piece.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Papillon]

My party left Capitol Lake at 0430 a few weeks ago because we were staring at a 60% precipitation forecast. Granted, it was all after 12 PM but we wanted to get as early a start as possible. The trail up to the K2-Daly saddle is class 1 and pretty effortless. However, as we started to make the traverse over to K2 we didn't like the headlamp look and feel of the terrain so we actually chilled and waited for some daylight.

On our return, we were surprised to see we had bypassed a snowfield and crossed a real nasty gully - looked nasty in broad daylight.

There is some good exposure when meandering around K2. Once you get to K2 you enter basically no fall terrain for the rest of the way (in my opinion). The exposure here, I believe, will actually help prep you for the knife edge - which is solid. Once you cross the knife edge, there is a little notch with exposure on both sides. This is not the place to play grab ass with your friends.

Loose stuff in The Elks is a crapshoot. It seems like five feet of lateral movement can make the difference between a pleasant ascent and a white-knuckler. The only loose stuff we encountered was post-knife edge. We were the first ones up so no worries but we had to be very careful on the descent because there were many people below us and 99% of them did not have helmets.

I can't see how crossing the logjam on Snowmass via headlamp would be a problem. I commend you for making a run from the bottom in a day. While Snowmass Lake is about as picturesque as you can get in terms of backcountry views, I found the 8 miles and 2600 feet to be absolute blah and vowed to attempt it in a day from the bottom on my next go-round. I encountered nothing loose on Snowmass upon gaining the ridge. If you find yourself a bit fatigued after Capitol, you can drop down 5-10 feet on the Lead King Basin side of the ridge and the route runs Class 2.

One thing to keep in mind is the overgrown foliage on the way up to the lake and beyond. If it has rained recently, you will get soaked. The vegetation was thick last July (2009) and I assume it will be the same now.

While it is a long drive down to San Luis from Aspen for Culebra (I did it after Pyramid), you will appreciate the ease of Class 1 and 2 after running the gauntlet in The Elks.

Good luck.

[hollamby]

My party left Capitol Lake at 0430 a few weeks ago because we were staring at a 60% precipitation forecast. Granted, it was all after 12 PM but we wanted to get as early a start as possible. The trail up to the K2-Daly saddle is class 1 and pretty effortless. However, as we started to make the traverse over to K2 we didn't like the headlamp look and feel of the terrain so we actually chilled and waited for some daylight.

On our return, we were surprised to see we had bypassed a snowfield and crossed a real nasty gully - looked nasty in broad daylight.

There is some good exposure when meandering around K2. Once you get to K2 you enter basically no fall terrain for the rest of the way (in my opinion). The exposure here, I believe, will actually help prep you for the knife edge - which is solid. Once you cross the knife edge, there is a little notch with exposure on both sides. This is not the place to play grab ass with your friends.

Loose stuff in The Elks is a crapshoot. It seems like five feet of lateral movement can make the difference between a pleasant ascent and a white-knuckler. The only loose stuff we encountered was post-knife edge. We were the first ones up so no worries but we had to be very careful on the descent because there were many people below us and 99% of them did not have helmets.

I can't see how crossing the logjam on Snowmass via headlamp would be a problem. I commend you for making a run from the bottom in a day. While Snowmass Lake is about as picturesque as you can get in terms of backcountry views, I found the 8 miles and 2600 feet to be absolute blah and vowed to attempt it in a day from the bottom on my next go-round. I encountered nothing loose on Snowmass upon gaining the ridge. If you find yourself a bit fatigued after Capitol, you can drop down 5-10 feet on the Lead King Basin side of the ridge and the route runs Class 2.

One thing to keep in mind is the overgrown foliage on the way up to the lake and beyond. If it has rained recently, you will get soaked. The vegetation was thick last July (2009) and I assume it will be the same now.

While it is a long drive down to San Luis from Aspen for Culebra (I did it after Pyramid), you will appreciate the ease of Class 1 and 2 after running the gauntlet in The Elks.

Good luck.

Really appreciate your post!

Yeah it is a long drive but I didn't realize that Culebra closed so soon and I am trying to climb all the 14ers in a year (I have until the beginning of January) so I had to do it this weekend or next and the weather is looking good. WIth a full time job it is rather difficult! Anyways, I will keep your post in mind and thanks for the advice.

Ryan

[Papillon]

Really appreciate your post!

Yeah it is a long drive but I didn't realize that Culebra closed so soon and I am trying to climb all the 14ers in a year (I have until the beginning of January) so I had to do it this weekend or next and the weather is looking good. WIth a full time job it is rather difficult! Anyways, I will keep your post in mind and thanks for the advice.

Ryan

Culebra seems to monkey-wrench everyone. I recommend focusing all attention on remaining peaks in The Elks and San Juans after this weekend. Humboldt and any of your remaining Sawatch peaks can be had in the shoulder season with minimal risk.

Just my two cents.

Be safe.

[hollamby]

Really appreciate your post!

Yeah it is a long drive but I didn't realize that Culebra closed so soon and I am trying to climb all the 14ers in a year (I have until the beginning of January) so I had to do it this weekend or next and the weather is looking good. WIth a full time job it is rather difficult! Anyways, I will keep your post in mind and thanks for the advice.

Ryan

Culebra seems to monkey-wrench everyone. I recommend focusing all attention on remaining peaks in The Elks and San Juans after this weekend. Humboldt and any of your remaining Sawatch peaks can be had in the shoulder season with minimal risk.

Just my two cents.

Be safe.

How long from the TH does it take to get to Capitol Lake? 2-3 hours? Would you take the ditch trail or avoid it because of all the recent rain?

That is the complete plan. I am saving the rest of the Sawatch for November/December. Giving this week to the San juans to dry out and hopefully hit the wilson group next weekend. Humbolt is going to be my last peak (want a easy one that I can take people up, and I did the traverse from peak to needle and want to show them (couple non-hikers that are coming with me on the last hike) those awesome peaks.

Thanks for your advice!

[gdthomas]

Actually, the rock on Snowmass and Capitol isn't the typical loose crap you'll find on Pyramid and the Bells. Also, I've never found fog in and around 14ers to be more prevalent in one range over the other. In any event, if you want to leave later for Snowmass you should consider the Lead King Basin side. You'll need 4wd, high clearance and it will increase your driving time but the hiking mileage is significantly less than the standard Snowmass Lake route.

[Papillon]

I took the ditch a few weeks ago in broad daylight but have never taken the old standard route so I can't compare. I actually parked 2 miles below the TH in my civic and humped the road. It was hot and I wasn't exactly feeling fleet of foot when I got to the standard TH so my girl and I took our time getting to the lake. We met a guy up there (7/25) who took the old capitol creek trail up in the dark and descended with us on the ditch in a day.

We hiked out in 2:16.

South Colony is a great place. The new (and lower) TH is a deterrent. Couple that with a fall trip and I'll almost guarantee you'll have the place to yourselves. I was up there last Friday/Saturday for Columbia Point. Watching the sun hit The Peak and The Needle from high on the Humboldt side is not to be missed.

[highpilgrim]

Actually, the rock on Snowmass and Capitol isn't the typical loose crap you'll find on Pyramid and the Bells. Also, I've never found fog in and around 14ers to be more prevalent in one range over the other. In any event, if you want to leave later for Snowmass you should consider the Lead King Basin side. You'll need 4wd, high clearance and it will increase your driving time but the hiking mileage is significantly less than the standard Snowmass Lake route.

I'd like to do this route but am thinking of renting a car in Denver and the difference between a 4wd and standard rental is huge...how close to the TH can I get without one?

[doggler]

Really appreciate your post!

Yeah it is a long drive but I didn't realize that Culebra closed so soon and I am trying to climb all the 14ers in a year (I have until the beginning of January) so I had to do it this weekend or next and the weather is looking good. WIth a full time job it is rather difficult! Anyways, I will keep your post in mind and thanks for the advice.

Ryan

Welcome to the ABC club.

[sdizzle]

Really appreciate your post!

Yeah it is a long drive but I didn't realize that Culebra closed so soon and I am trying to climb all the 14ers in a year (I have until the beginning of January) so I had to do it this weekend or next and the weather is looking good. WIth a full time job it is rather difficult! Anyways, I will keep your post in mind and thanks for the advice.

Ryan

Welcome to the ABC club.

+1 on the ABC club.

[castricone7]

I'd like to do this route but am thinking of renting a car in Denver and the difference between a 4wd and standard rental is huge...how close to the TH can I get without one?

Depending on the rental, you can get to the Crystal TH, which is 2 miles from the lead king basin TH. You cannot drive up lead king basin in a car. Some people do it in stock SUVs though. Take a bandana for the road dust.

[highpilgrim]

castricone7,

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to give it a go from Crystal.