Crestone Peak vs Wetterhorn

[P Why]

How much harder is Crestone Peak? I know it's a longer more grueling day, but I'm asking more about the technical challenge, exposure, and "fear factor". Also, how do the summit pitches compare?

We did Wetterhorn last year without much trouble. Hesitated briefly below the summit pitch, but found it to be way easier than it looked. Going down was no problem at all.

We're considering Crestone Peak and Humboldt in mid August.

Thanks!

[Jim Davies]

I thought they were similar in technical difficulty and fear factor. The final pitch on Crestone is exposed, but the rock is good, and I didn't find it all that intimidating. There are a few other spots like that on the way up the south couloir also.

[covfrrider]

IMHO they are equivalent, and yes you are correct that is a more grueling day.

[fleetmack]

As you mentioned, Wetterhorn is a shorter day than Crestone. I'll rate your 4 things for you from my opinion:

Technical Challenge: all in all, if you have the skills to do one you have the skills to do another. final call: same, but obviously crestone is MUCH longer, as are the more difficult areas
exposure: more extreme on wetterhorn but for a short period of time. less extreme on crestone but for a long time (i speak of the whole gully).... well, not sure i'd call it "exposure", but definitely a risk of a hurtful fall for much longer. final call: wetterhorn wins for "most exposure" as it is true exposure
fear factor depends what you are scared of. i wasn't scared for a second on wetterhorn, and i'm scared of heights. on the other end, i'm terrified of falling rocks, so i did not enjoy crestone peak at all. crestone peak wins the fear factor.
summit pitch wetterhorn is steeper and longer for the "summit pitch"... but crestone's lead up to the summit pitch in the gully is quite long.

[JosephG]

Very similar, though the Peak's Class 3 section is longer and more sustained than Wetterhorn's final pitch. Think of Wetterhorn's finale stretched ~4 times longer, and that's the Peak. Wonderful, solid, knob-y rock on the Peak, though rocks do get kicked loose above. The last, brief traverse from the exit of the Red Gully to the summit might get your attention.

If you did Wetterhorn, you can do the Peak. . . bearing in mind that the latter takes more focused concentration for a longer stretch of the route.

Good luck!

Edit: mis-read that, though most of what I wrote can be salvaged.

[CarpeDM]

If you didn't have any problem with Wetterhorn, I doubt you'll have any problem with Crestone Peak. Personally, I was more intimidated by Wetterhorn's summit pitch than I was with the Peak's. Maybe if (er, when) I go back, I'll have a different opinion.

[bking14ers]

Hey this is great. I am also planning on climbing Crestone Peak, and Humboldt in late August. One week after your climb. I was told it makes for a long day, approx. 11- 12 hrs. We are camping the night before at South Colony Lakes. I don't know what route you are using to do it, but down climbing the North Couloir could give you issues, as one of my post replies said. So if you already knew that, than my two cents doesn't mean squat. So Happy Trails!

[P Why]

Thanks for the feedback, it's extremely helpful.
Our plan is for the standard red gully route from South Colony Lakes, via Broken Hand Pass, August 19 or 20. Hopefully the raod closure will keep the crowds down. Our biggest challenge is of course the weather. We fly in from the East coast and only have a 3 day window to summit two 14ers, if we're lucky. Can't wait.

[James Scott]

This is probably "no duh" advice, but get an early start. The day won't seem too long from camp to summit, especially once you get over Broken Hand Pass. It has a bit of Holy Cross effect on the return in that you go all the way back down the red gully into the basin, and then have to climb back up and over Broken Hand Pass, which will be on some heavy legs, and possibly getting into some afternoon weather. I would not want to be stuck on the other side of the pass watching the thunderstorms take shape, knowing I had to climb up and over a fairly exposed ridge to reach camp.

[TravelingMatt]

Crestone is going to be an absolute bitch of a dayhike now with the upper South Colony Road closed. If you don't go over the Needle there's an extra 700 feet in each direction you lose going down from Broken Hand Pass. There are no similar issues with Wetterhorn.

Regarding steepness/exposure, I agree with others that the Red Gully sectionis longer and tougher than anything on Wetterhorn, but more fun. Up and down Broken Hand Pass though... ugh, mostly dirt.