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Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Kyle the climber » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:51 pm

well i might be going up in a couple weeks. does anyone now if there is any unclimbed routes here? it seems like all of the good lines have been climbed. :(

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby John Prater » Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:28 pm

RoanMtnMan wrote:We ran into a guy on the top of Humboldt back in mid-february that had just climbed straight up the gulley labeled "Whitney Route" on Kiefer's photo the previous day. He intended to do the traverse too but ran out of daylight. He had climbed it solo with only one tool. He estimated that it was M6 in spots. He had a thick Russian sounding accent and claimed that he had climbed all of the 14ers solo in the last 12 months (most in winter), with the exception of Culebra, which he was on his way to poach. Oh yeah and the weather was pretty bad both days up there. We also noticed that he post holed through very deep snow all the way up to the lakes where he set his camp.

No way to verify the story but he seemed legit. Jcwhite can verify that we at least heard it. If true, makes me feel like a candyass.


Perhaps this guy?

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby RoanMtnMan » Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:34 pm

That looks like about what he told us John. Couldn't really hear the name b/c it was blowing about 40 up there, but he did have Illinois plates. Looks like he didn't get his Culebra poach, though we left our email addresses on his window in case he wanted some info on how it could be done. Not that I would ever do that.
Always follow the 7 P's. Proper Planning & Preparation, Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby doumall » Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:26 pm

John Prater wrote:
RoanMtnMan wrote:We ran into a guy on the top of Humboldt back in mid-february that had just climbed straight up the gulley labeled "Whitney Route" on Kiefer's photo the previous day. He intended to do the traverse too but ran out of daylight. He had climbed it solo with only one tool. He estimated that it was M6 in spots. He had a thick Russian sounding accent and claimed that he had climbed all of the 14ers solo in the last 12 months (most in winter), with the exception of Culebra, which he was on his way to poach. Oh yeah and the weather was pretty bad both days up there. We also noticed that he post holed through very deep snow all the way up to the lakes where he set his camp.

No way to verify the story but he seemed legit. Jcwhite can verify that we at least heard it. If true, makes me feel like a candyass.


Perhaps this guy?


The guy rates Longs Cable route M6... a bit of a stretch :lol: Pretty sweet winter he had though.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Pivvay » Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:51 am

M6R at that.

Still if you take that and apply it to what he said then you get a rough idea of the technical difficulty assuming he thought both routes were about M6.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby RoanMtnMan » Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:22 pm

Perhaps his ratings take into account that he climbs solo with one tool.
Always follow the 7 P's. Proper Planning & Preparation, Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Dave B » Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:45 pm

Thread resurrection!!!

So, if the gully to the right (orange/red arrow) is the Whitney route, anyone have any idea what the route to the left (black/white) arrow is? Looks mostly snow sloggish but the chimney could offer some spice and maybe some ice in the right conditions. It's so obvious I can't imagine it hasn't been climbed before... Looks intriguing, could be a fun winter route.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby spadflyer12 » Mon Dec 23, 2013 3:49 pm

Oooh, I like this thread. Alpine Ambition is another one that looks fun: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/alpine-ambition/108166358

@Dave B: I'm not sure what that route is, but I think it lets out just at the bottom of the East Gully on Crestone Needle.

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