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Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Kyle the climber » Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:26 pm

I have been doing some research on the Crestones and found some interesting info on a couloir on the northern side of the mountain first climbed by Arnold-Micheal. I was wondering if anyone has seen it or climbed it, it looks like a good climb. I was thinking about snow shoeing up south colony road to check it out during spring break. So any info would be great.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Kiefer » Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:06 pm

Check out a book by William M. Bueler.
It's called "Roof of the Rockies-A History of Colorado Mountaineering".
The local library or REI should have it.
Weird. I was JUST looking at Crestone Needle in this book earlier this morning (pgs. 123-125).
I might have some pics of this wall when I was up there a few years back. I'll post if I can find them.
From what I can remember, the Michel Route & India Route were fairly recessed. Don't know how often they get climbed.
I have high interest in a route to the left of Ellingwood called, Whitney.
"Wisdom comes from making mistakes.
Experience, is the knowledge of knowing what to do when one makes a mistake and wisdom,
stems from the changes we go through while learning from those mistakes."

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Kiefer » Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:29 pm

Here's a shot of the wall around the East Buttress.
Click on the link to get the full-sized edition.
Hope this helps ya. 8)

100_0562Labeled.JPG
Eastern Wall
100_0562Labeled.JPG (146.65 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

Full Size via SP
"Wisdom comes from making mistakes.
Experience, is the knowledge of knowing what to do when one makes a mistake and wisdom,
stems from the changes we go through while learning from those mistakes."

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Kyle the climber » Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:48 pm

thanks for picture! Has anyone recently been up these routes and have pictures? recently being the last few years :D

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Rich H » Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:56 pm

in a major navigational screwup on my part I did the Whitney route unroped about 10 years ago...

I thought I was heading up Broken Hand in the fog and ended up on the face....not exactly my finest hour - spent a lot of time once I was up at 13,300 off the route thanking God. I did in September when there was no ice
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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby RoanMtnMan » Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:00 pm

We ran into a guy on the top of Humboldt back in mid-february that had just climbed straight up the gulley labeled "Whitney Route" on Kiefer's photo the previous day. He intended to do the traverse too but ran out of daylight. He had climbed it solo with only one tool. He estimated that it was M6 in spots. He had a thick Russian sounding accent and claimed that he had climbed all of the 14ers solo in the last 12 months (most in winter), with the exception of Culebra, which he was on his way to poach. Oh yeah and the weather was pretty bad both days up there. We also noticed that he post holed through very deep snow all the way up to the lakes where he set his camp.

No way to verify the story but he seemed legit. Jcwhite can verify that we at least heard it. If true, makes me feel like a candyass.
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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby Kyle the climber » Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:07 pm

hmmm interesting story i have never heard that one before neat :lol:

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby RoanMtnMan » Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:59 pm

Kyle the climber wrote:hmmm interesting story i have never heard that one before neat :lol:


My story is 100% true. That is what we encountered. I know it sounds crazy but it's true. Having spent 10 years on Wall St. I feel fairly capable of separating the wheat from the chaff. I think the guy was telling the truth or a very close version of it.
Always follow the 7 P's. Proper Planning & Preparation, Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby BillMiddlebrook » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:37 pm

I believe the point labeled at "Crestone Peak" in that photo is actually "East Crestone"

I really find that "India" route interesting...
Only SNOW will end the madness

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby TomPierce » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:39 pm

I'm familar with the route only by perusing cryptic guidebook entries from years gone past. That said, what's the beta on this route, ie is it a steep snow slog in the spring or is there any reliable alpine ice? Seasonal to be sure, my guess is it's an early May-ish ice/snow ascent, if at all? Just a guess. Any info/ideas? Thanks,
-Tom

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby GravityPilot » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:55 pm

Sounds like a late April mission to me. Coincidence has it that I'm free the end of April and my girlfriend's name is Whitney. Destiny? Could be.

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Re: Crestone Needle Ice Routes?

Postby TomPierce » Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:09 pm

90% sure I'll be in Yosemite in late April, but if later attempts materialize and someone needs a partner I'm game...depending on family/work/weather issues, of course.
-Tom

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