Evans Couloirs

[ptwobbabs]

Has anyone been to check out Sunrise Couloir or any of the North Face couloirs on Mt Evans recently? I would appreciate any intel.....

[Van McDaniel]

It may be too early in the season for this now. Access to the bottom of the north face will be long until the road opens. May/June is a good time for this. There are several routes on this face and Roach is the best info resource. Most of these couliors are in the 40-45 and maybe 50 degree range. Once the snow has stablized it is fairly easy to just crampon up the snow and walk/glissade/ski back down the north face and do it again. One can spend all day here and get a fine workout. Many ski the north face and have their dog run down after them. A while back Mark Milburn(Yog to most)and I did a route on the north face and I almost got linebacked by a mountain goat at the top of the north face.

This is a good area for a small group to go to and work on their climbing/group skills under a fairly controlled set of conditions. Watch out for that cornice that likes to build at the top of Sunrise. that could ruin your day.

[MikeyC]

I absolutely agree with Van, and will add that the top of sunrise can get very steep and could require an exit on the rocks on either side of the couloir. That can be 5th class. The couloir may not look like there is a cornice all the time. Bill has a good description of Sunrise on this site.http://www.14ers.com/routemain.php?rout ... =Mt.+Evans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I also agree that the snow is probably not in very good shape to be climbing right now.

-Mike

[ptwobbabs]

I'm fine with the long approach, that's not an issue. And the steepness is fine too, I'm experienced with this degree of snow climbing. i'll be taking a rope (and a companion to force into belaying :D ). I have the Roach book. My main question is just if the snow is possible right now, ie avy danger and that pesky cornice i've heard about.

I also agree that the snow is probably not in very good shape to be climbing right now.

have you been up there? is it very unconsolidated?
thanks for the warnings guys. it doesn't sound very doable right now but i'm always hopeful.....i only get one chance at colorado this time of year and i want a couloir not a ridgeline!

[BaronVonBergschrund]

My main question is just if the snow is possible right now, ie avy danger and that pesky cornice i've heard about.

If only there was a website that forecast avalanche conditions.

caic.jpg (56.48 KiB) Viewed 2133 times

If you are inexperienced climbing couloirs, why not just wait for the spring when the snow consolidates?

[ptwobbabs]

yes i am aware of that website and i monitor it all the time

sorry for asking stupid questions, i guess

i wasjust looking for some first-hand information if there is any out there.

[BaronVonBergschrund]

sorry for asking stupid questions, i guess
i wasjust looking for some first-hand information if there is any out there.

This should scream "TRAP" to you for winter conditions with a lot of snow.



I have to wonder about how you decided this climb might be in condition?

[Hacksaw]

I'm fine with the long approach, that's not an issue. And the steepness is fine too, I'm experienced with this degree of snow climbing. i'll be taking a rope (and a companion to force into belaying :D ).

You have to admire the guy for being willing to hike/ski so far for such a relatively short climb....

Avalanche wise, I think this wouldn't be a wise choice at the moment...

[ptwobbabs]

sorry for asking stupid questions, i guess
i wasjust looking for some first-hand information if there is any out there.

This should scream "TRAP" to you for winter conditions with a lot of snow.


I have to wonder about how you decided this climb might be in condition?

ok baron.....i think we have some communication issues. i have not "decided" this climb might be in condition, i am/was looking for information about anyone having been that way. why are you jumping my s**t?

on another note, thanks for the picture. looking interesting....

[Jim Davies]

ok baron.....i think we have some communication issues. i have not "decided" this climb might be in condition, i am/was looking for information about anyone having been that way. why are you jumping my s**t?

on another note, thanks for the picture. looking interesting....

I think you're optimistically ignoring the avalanche conditions. Also, that picture isn't current.

[ptwobbabs]

ok it's pretty obvious that that picture is not current. i got that, thanks

[BaronVonBergschrund]

why are you jumping my s**t?

Mostly because anyone who is even semi-experienced in the mountains would not even consider doing a 50 degree couloir that faces east, in March, the snowiest month in Colorado, with dangerous avalanche conditions, belayed with a rope, while ignoring comments from other people posting who say it is a bad idea. Jumping your s**t seemed to be a reasonable method for getting my point across.