They are constructing campsites at the new TH. Also, I've seen six new tent platforms in the vicinity of the old TH. Finally, there are some newly constructed platforns about 1/3 mile short of the lower lake. (to find them, make certain you use the trail that takes off west from the old parking area, do not use the trail to thae old mine that requires you to cross the creek. They seem to be working on additional sites bouth in the vicinity of the old TH and the area short of (but a good distance from) the Lake.
I've done the traverse many times (more than 10; until now it has been a day-trip from Pueblo. This was my chosen route for claendar winter.) Unlike most posters here, I've always gone Needle to Peak. I bring an alpine rope and we rap the section off the Needle summit, It's fun to say you did a rap on the traverse. I also like to descend the North Couloir off the Peak (make certain conditions are right, or you'll be pulling the rope out again. ) You can cross Bear's playground and descend to the upper lake (make certain you take the time to find the right col.)
If someone knows the route, this tour de Crestones has alot to offer. Bigtrout and Barry Johnson joined me this last September, and we had a good time. Bigtrout, got his first two rappels (the descent had an area blocked by ice, so we improvised.)
Overall, this is my favorite trip on a 14er. Thus my Crestone avatar. I'm dissapointed that it will be much harder a s a daytrip now that the road has closed. I got my 10y/o up there this fall to get Humbolt before it became a harder trip.
Crestone Traverse ?'s
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
"We knocked the bastard off." Hillary, 1953
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?
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schrund
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
Well said- I once did this route but accidentally descended North Colony Lakes Basin while hurridly trying to escape the Lightening Monster that resides in the Playground.... Not what you want to dosgladbach wrote:(make certain you take the time to find the right col.)
If someone knows the route, this tour de Crestones has alot to offer.
We did not think of the great open plains, the beautiful rolling hills, and winding streams... as "wild". Only to the white man was nature a "wilderness".
-Luther Standing Bear, Oglala Chief
-Luther Standing Bear, Oglala Chief
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Carl
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
North couloir = northwest couloir right? What is the rappel like? I noticed a sling at the top of it when climbing the north buttress but I don't remember looking down the couloir. If it's icey in late summer could you do a series of rappels with a 60 meter? Are there rocks to sling? Or maybe the downclimbing isn't that bad? Thanks!sgladbach wrote: I also like to descend the North Couloir off the Peak (make certain conditions are right, or you'll be pulling the rope out again. )
I agree the tour de Crestones is fantastic. Just looking to reverse it next summer with a descent of the northwest couloir. Also trying to justify buying a lighter 60m rope and making a list of climbs I would use it on!
Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
Wesley, I'm assuming Sgladbach is speaking of the northwest couloir of the Peak. If you can descend it when the conditions are right (i.e., late summer), you won't need a rope. There's still a good possibility you'll be dealing with some ice in spots (and it's a crappy, loose, steep couloir to say the least), but you shouldn't need a rope (we didn't). If you descend earlier in the summer, you may need a rope for a short period of time for a rappel or belay. The length of that potential rappel would vary depending on the conditions of the upper portion of the couloir, but I do think a 60 meter would work. That couloir rarely gets sunlight and retains snow/ice way into the summer months (sometimes never losing it at all). Happy trails! :D
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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sstrauss
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
Wesley
As usual, let me know when you do this trip....it's on the summer listI agree the tour de Crestones is fantastic. Just looking to reverse it next summer with a descent of the northwest couloir
The Grand Teton, when we go next july/august...yes you're going....Also trying to justify buying a lighter 60m rope and making a list of climbs I would use it on!
"He discovered that boredom and fear and anger are the reasons that one's life is so short, and with these gone from his thought, he lived a long fine life indeed." R. Bach
Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
Sure , NW couloir sounds good! Since I already had a 60m 7.5mm rope w/ me from the Needle rappel, it has come in handy a couple of times. I've done the route several times, so conditions have varied greatly. Most recently (September), the entrance to the couloir was quite icy (thus the slings you saw someone else place at the entrance) and there were some pretty icy spots in the portion where water runs down the center much of the year, we did short belays. There is an area where you should leave the couloir and traverse east. This is cairned in more than one place. I usually take the route marked by the highest cairn. On this route, there is a particularly narrow section about 20' long. it was so icy, we opted to rap down 25' instead and avoid the problem.Presto wrote:Wesley, I'm assuming Sgladbach is speaking of the northwest couloir of the Peak. If you can descend it when the conditions are right (i.e., late summer), you won't need a rope. There's still a good possibility you'll be dealing with some ice in spots (and it's a crappy, loose, steep couloir to say the least), but you shouldn't need a rope (we didn't). If you descend earlier in the summer, you may need a rope for a short period of time for a rappel or belay. The length of that potential rappel would vary depending on the conditions of the upper portion of the couloir, but I do think a 60 meter would work. That couloir rarely gets sunlight and retains snow/ice way into the summer months (sometimes never losing it at all). Happy trails! :D
Confident climbers in most conditions would not need as rope, but if you know how to use a rope, and don't know the route that well, it could come in handy. Remember, on this tour de Crestones, you are violating a basic mountaineering tenet by descending a route which you have not climbed. Since you are entering the NW col blind, it is nice to have the rope that you used to rap off the Needle.
My two partners this summer were stretching their skills. Both agreed it was the hardest route they had done to date. The added confidence of a properly used rope, avoids "Freezing Up " problems which can be an issue.
Your suggestion of reversing the route (I'd bring crampons most of the year)solves alot of the problem. Why do I do it Needle - Peak - NW col - Bear's Playground - Upper S. Colony? Because I've always done it that way and I have the route well memorized. No other reason to prefer this route.
Last edited by sgladbach on Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"We knocked the bastard off." Hillary, 1953
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?
Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
+1. It's a classic. I think climbers nowadays (by sgladbach » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:48 pm
Why do I do it needle-Peak-NW col- Bear'sPlayground-Upper S. Colony? Because I've always done it that way and I have the route well memorized. No other reason to prefer this route.
, yeah, I'm dating myself) are missing out. It used to be that was the standard route to do the traverse. (sigh) :DAs if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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MtHurd
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
Just a note on the Northwest Couloir. If you are ascending it, you will come to a split about halfway up. Take the lefthand split!
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Carl
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
Just the info I was looking for. Thanks guys.
I saw that thread you posted and wondered who you had plans to climb the Grand with. Thanks for the heads up.sstrauss wrote:The Grand Teton, when we go next july/august...yes you're going....
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UTmike
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
I'm interested in trying that route myself this summer. And the next day head over to Kit Carson and back. I've been looking for some trail descriptions or GPS coordinates/tracks for getting to Kit Carson and back and hopefully the traverse. Anyone know where I might be able to find some info??sgladbach wrote:
Sure , NW couloir sounds good! Since I already had a 60m 7.5mm rope w/ me from the Needle rappel, it has come in handy a couple of times. I've done the route several times, so conditions have varied greatly. Most recently (September), the entrance to the couloir was quite icy (thus the slings you saw someone else place at the entrance) and there were some pretty icy spots in the portion where water runs down the center much of the year, we did short belays. There is an area where you should leave the couloir and traverse east. This is cairned in more than one place. I usually take the route marked by the highest cairn. On this route, there is a particularly narrow section about 20' long. it was so icy, we opted to rap down 25' instead and avoid the problem.
Confident climbers in most conditions would not need as rope, but if you know how to use a rope, and don't know the route that well, it could come in handy. Remember, on this tour de Crestones, you are violating a basic mountaineering tenet by descending a route which you have not climbed. Since you are entering the NW col blind, it is nice to have the rope that you used to rap off the Needle.
My two partners this summer were stretching their skills. Both agreed it was the hardest route they had done to date. The added confidence of a properly used rope, avoids "Freezing Up " problems which can be an issue.
Your suggestion of reversing the route (I'd bring crampons most of the year)solves alot of the problem. Why do I do it Needle - Peak - NW col - Bear's Playground - Upper S. Colony? Because I've always done it that way and I have the route well memorized. No other reason to prefer this route.
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schrund
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
I lucked out and received the National Geographic Colorado 14ers CD for Christmas. It's all on there, maps, waypoints, and trail descriptions. Would be a good dividend purchase:
http://www.rei.com/product/801184" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.rei.com/product/801184" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
We did not think of the great open plains, the beautiful rolling hills, and winding streams... as "wild". Only to the white man was nature a "wilderness".
-Luther Standing Bear, Oglala Chief
-Luther Standing Bear, Oglala Chief
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emfortin
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Re: Crestone Traverse ?'s
At least before the road closure, every time I've been up there (6 times) it's been heavy with people not necessarily going for a fourteener. You can follow the traverse to the headwall and if you decide to turn around it only adds about 45 minutes to your trip. I've never actually done the traverse, but have been to the headwall (recent fluke snowstorm made me reconsider slipping possibilities) and done both peaks in a day. At least the way I got down, it was technically harder but not the same exposure.
Eric
