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S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby davebks » Thu May 28, 2009 9:14 am

Hello all, I have Saturday free and would like to go for a nice long hike. I was thinking maybe up in RMNP or Nederland area but anywhere is good. I live in Boulder so nothing too far, you know... hour or so drive. Maybe two if its worth it. Is Quandary still under snow?
I do have new alpine gear I would love to practice with but I will be alone so I have to take that into account.
Any 14ers looking good for a solo ascent right now? I can bring snowshoes and stuff if necessary. Would love to use my ice ax/crampons.
Thanks, just looking for something new to do :?:

I did Lost Lake up near Ned last weekend and that was lots o fun. Anything else near there looking good?
Last edited by davebks on Thu May 28, 2009 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Good hiking for the weekend?

Postby tmathews » Thu May 28, 2009 9:41 am

davebks wrote:Hello all, I have Saturday free and would like to go for a nice long hike. I was thinking maybe up in RMNP or Nederland area but anywhere is good. I live in Boulder so nothing too far, you know... hour or so drive. Maybe two if its worth it. Is Quandary still under snow?
I do have new alpine gear I would love to practice with but I will be alone so I have to take that into account.
Any 14ers looking good for a solo ascent right now? I can bring snowshoes and stuff if necessary. Would love to use my ice ax/crampons.
Thanks, just looking for something new to do :?:

I did Lost Lake up near Ned last weekend and that was lots o fun. Anything else near there looking good?


Hi, there,

I'm actually considering attempting to get up to Lion Lake 1 (maybe 2) in RMNP on Saturday. I just called the backcountry office and was told that there is probably still a considerable amount of snow, but they don't have any trail reports. There was a TR made for Thunder Lake recently that said there is about 2.5 feet of snow, but Thunder Lake is in the sun. Lion Lake 1 is a 7-mile trip one-way with about 2,500 feet of elevation gain.

Let me know if you'd be interested. I would welcome some company, but be advised that I'm a slow hiker! #-o

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Re: Good hiking for the weekend?

Postby davebks » Thu May 28, 2009 10:00 am

Thanks for the info. I will let you know. I was also considering going back up to Ned and trying something up there. If you haven't been on http://www.protrails.com, its a great site for hiking out here.

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Re: Good hiking for the weekend?

Postby jcarlberg » Thu May 28, 2009 2:06 pm

I was thinking of trying to camp up near Diamond Lake this saturday and to do some hiking up around camp. I tried the same thing at this time last year and I was totally unprepared for the amount of snow. This time I'll be more prepared, but I'm still curious about the conditions up there. What was it like at Lost Lake last week? If you had to guess, how much different would the conditions be at Diamond Lake compared to Lost Lake? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

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S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby davebks » Thu May 28, 2009 2:22 pm

Hello all...
So, I have decided to go up to Arapaho Glacier and try my skills on S. Arapaho peak. I have all this new alpine gear I am just itching to try out.

You asked about Lost Lake... well, I just called the ranger to see what it was like up there since I was thinking about camping as well. When we went two weeks ago there was at least a couple feet of snow still up there and we used snow shoes to get to the lake. The ranger said it was still VERY snowy and muddy up there so camping might be tough, especially since all that rain just fell. I thought about it but getting all that gear ready for one night just didn't sound like fun, so I am going to play around in my crampons and try for the peak instead.
She mentioned that Hessey and 4th of July are really the only roads partially open at this point as well.

Have any of you done S. Arapahoe peak via the glacier? any advice on the route? I looked on mountainproject.com but they had some technical routes. I am thinking I can take the glacier up to the ridge and go up from there.

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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby Rich H » Thu May 28, 2009 2:38 pm

If you are secure in climbing snow and haven't had a go at it yet... try Skywalker on S Arap. I thought that was an amazing climb

it does get very steep at the top... I was wishing I had a better axe or two.
Last edited by Rich H on Thu May 28, 2009 3:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby ClimbandMine » Thu May 28, 2009 2:41 pm

Take a look at these, accessable via the 4th of July trailhead. I believe the glacier is illegal to climb as it is in within the boundary of property owned by the Boulder Water District or some such. Besides, for snow climbing, the first two are better routes. The traverse is pretty fun, too.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/indian_peaks/105756754

http://www.summitpost.org/route/155854/skywalker-couloir.html

http://www.summitpost.org/route/155844/arapaho-peaks-traverse.html

http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/302159/south-to-north-arapaho-peak-traverse.html
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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby jcarlberg » Thu May 28, 2009 2:55 pm

Thanks for the feedback. I had a feeling that the conditions would be nasty up there, but for some reason i always try to convince myself that it will be better than I remember. The more I think about it, the less appealing it sounds. I might consider going somewhere else now.

As for the S. Arapahoe peak via the glacier, I haven't done it. It's been a while since I was up there, but I'm not sure how high up the glacier goes, or if you can reach the ridge from the glacier. Also, as Cimbandmine pointed out, it may not be legal to climb the glacier. Good Luck!

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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby davebks » Thu May 28, 2009 2:57 pm

I saw those on mtn project and they look awesome! Do you think any of those are ok alone? I mean, sure, you should never do this stuff alone...
I was thinking the ridge line for that reason but one of those chutes would be super fun. are they pretty mellow?

oh, as for legality, the ranger at the Boulder dist. office was the one who told me to go climb the glacier and that it would be a good place to practice... hmmm... I think it was turned from a "glacier" to a snowfield a few years back. That might have changed something

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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby ClimbandMine » Thu May 28, 2009 3:04 pm

I don't know that I'd call Skywalker mellow - the Princess Leia (direct) finish in particular. Depending on conditions it can get pretty steep and if you hit it too late, the snow won't hold weight / steps too well. I used two tools at the time, which I remember being pretty nice to have.

I soloed it when I did it, but wouldn't recommend it if you aren't totally comfortable on steep snow/ice. The ridge is fairly mellow class 3 most of the way, though snow adds a little spice. I don't remember it being too big a deal.
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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby davebks » Thu May 28, 2009 3:28 pm


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Re: S. Arapahoe Peak via the glacier??

Postby Nathan Hale » Thu May 28, 2009 4:35 pm

Arapahoe Glacier is definitely closed to public access, and from everything I've heard it is monitored (not sure how). I doubt you'll find any beta on doing anything via that basin because no one posts TRs for reasons of that legality. Not to say that people don't climb the peaks within the closure, but it's generally done at night...

davebks wrote:oh, as for legality, the ranger at the Boulder dist. office was the one who told me to go climb the glacier and that it would be a good place to practice... hmmm... I think it was turned from a "glacier" to a snowfield a few years back. That might have changed something


I've never heard it referred to as anything other than a glacier, but the status of the name isn't relevant to the status of the closure. It's a closure from the city of Boulder to protect their water supply, and it's 100% stupid. The distinction between city of Boulder and the Boulder district of the NFS (whom I assume you talked to) is probably the reason for that suggestion, though I can't believe that he wouldn't know about the closure. It's listed on almost all of the maps of the area, and it's particularly noticeable on the trails illustrated maps.

Are you sure he wasn't referring to St Mary's Glacier? That's the classic place to go practice snow climbs/self-arrest.
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