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Sunlight Prep?

FAQ and threads for those just starting to hike the Colorado 14ers.

Sunlight Prep?

Postby JohnnyZ » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:03 pm

Looking to do Sunlight, Eolus and Windom as a summer ending trip. My only class 3 experience is Bierstadt-Sawtooth-Evans and Quandry's West Ridge, but I handled both of them fine.

I will only have 2 or 3 more chances to climb before I plan on doing Sunlight, and was wondering what everyone would recommend for prep? Anything within 3 hours of Colorado Springs that can be done in one day is what I need.

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Postby Chris P. » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:14 pm

The Crestones would be great prep, but would probably be just as hard (or harder) than anything on Eolus or Sunlight. Kelso ridge on Torreys may also be good prep. I'd advise just climbing some various class 3 routes. You may have to venture outside the fourteeners to do this since there aren't many class 3 scrambles on fourteeners within 3 hours of CO Springs besides the ones I've mentioned.

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Postby Presto » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:18 pm

Little Bear would work for you too (and stick in the Blanca/Ellingwood ridge for good measure).

Postby JohnnyZ » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:25 pm

14ers, 13ers anything works. Just looking to get more experience. Also does anyone recommend a helmet for Sunlight/ Eolus?

And thanks for your suggestions :)
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Postby Kevin Baker » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:28 pm

Mt Vigil, an unranked 10er near Bear Trap Ranch off Old Stage Rd is a great one to prepare you for the exposure on Sunlight. ... -peak.html

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Postby gdthomas » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:31 pm

I second Kelso Ridge. Also Long's Peak - overall a more difficult climb than any single Chicago Basin 14er. You may even want to backpack in to Missouri Gulch and climb Missouri and/or Belford/Oxford. Really, any climbing you can squeeze in between now and then will help. I'd climb Sunlight and Eolus with a helmet.

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Postby Presto » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:55 pm

Oh, well if you're going to open up the 13'er bandwagon, I can add a few more suggestions. Either from Music Pass access (on the east side) or Cottonwood Creek access (on the west side) ... you have a wonderful tour de Milwaukee Peak, Pico Asilado and 13,020. Most desirable to access via Cottonwood Creek with high camp below Pico, then head up to the saddle to Milwaukee first, descend and follow ridge over and upt to Pico, descend and continue to 13,020 and then bank around and descend back to your camp. Good rock, nice 3rd class scrambling, some exposure.

Twin Peaks A and Unnamed 13,577 are nice too. Leave from Zapata trailhead. Some nice scrambling with a camp near the small lake that sits between these two in the valley.

Another 14'er option would be Willow Lake approach for Challenger/Kit Carson. You could also do 13'ers up there in Mt. Adams and lower unnamed 13'er neighbors.

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Postby Alpine » Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:10 pm

I think the suggestions made are good ones - but I also think if you have done Quandary West ridge and the Sawtooth you will have no problems.

On Sunlight, when you come to the large flat area at about 14000 down and to your left, stay left and find your way up the obvious weaknesses for the 3rd class stuff. If you cut right and down, you will end up going back up along some ledges with at least one solid 4th class move.

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Postby Jim Davies » Mon Jul 09, 2007 5:10 pm

I thought Eolus was not very difficult technically, just a minor maze of choices past the catwalk. Quandary's west ridge was definitely worse. I haven't done Sunlight but hear it's overrated. :wink:

If you're looking for class 3/4 climbs, the ultimate guide is Dave Cooper's "Colorado Scrambles" book. Everyone who likes scrambly summit routes should check out this book, IMO. ... 0976052504
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