Snow routes

[Curtis Stoll]

I have a very newb question: When you look at the routes for a particular peak and there are routes that are "recommended as snow routes only". What exactly does that mean? Are those routes only for those that are skiing or can you climb those routes in the summer as well? Does the difficulty increase in the summer if you do attempt? Just curious exactly what that caveat is all about. Thanks in advance for all replies!

[drewski]

Usually these routes are couloirs that provide good climbing with ice ax and crampons in the late Spring and early Summer. However, when the snow melts off they are unpleasant possibly dangerous scree slopes.

[XterraRob]

Sometimes routes are easier/safer with enough snow pack (ie Humbolt E Ridge) than the traditional route.

[Kiefer]

Curtis,
When you see routes in guidebooks or on Internet sites that state "snow route," it's exactly what the others here have mentioned.
Gullys, couloirs, old avalanche paths sometimes etc. are much easier & safer to climb when there's snow. The snow/underlying ice bonds and holds everything (talus, scree, roots, lost climbers) together; it kind of cements it all together. So instead of scrambling up loose junk where you run the risk of injury from rockfall, twisted ankles or worse, the snow turns it into a massive stair-stepper. It also provides a convenient and safer way of ascending to the top.

You can ascend these routes in summer under dry conditions of course, but it only takes once to realize how frustrating, irritating and potentially hazardous these routes can be.
Try climbing the Iron Gates Route on Mt. Meeker in both seasons. That's the first one that comes to mind.

[randalmartin]

Also to emphasize, snow routes assume you have done the appropriate assessment of avalanche risk, particularly the steeper couloir climbs. In Colorado, April/May is couloir season, when snow has settled and fully bonded together.