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Using Ropes on 14ers

FAQ and threads for those just starting to hike the Colorado 14ers.
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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby audiotom » Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:28 pm

Doesn't Little Bear have fixed support?

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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby TomPierce » Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:41 pm

Kris: You insolent upstart! How dare you give an alternate viewpoint!! That is just never done in tech climbing!!! :lol:

Yep, all very good points, esp the escaping-the-belay thing. I've practiced it but have never had to really use it (although I did a rescue of a messy fall prussiking up a lead line once...sorta close to the same concept). I went over to Eli's site after I posted to double check what I wrote and noticed he's posted some new Tech Tips, one of which is using the BD Guide as an autoblock. Good video, worth a look.

I suppose where I land is not believing that there is only one way to get things done, but rather developing an arsenal of "tricks" so that when things hit the fan, gear is dropped, etc. etc. you can get out of most situations. For example, I've dropped a rap device once before and didn't fret, I knew several work-arounds and picked the one I prefer. So whether you prefer the harness belay or anchor, it's pretty much a preference/situation thing: both will work, and depending on circumstances one may be superior. But getting that bag of tricks pretty full? Priceless.

-Tom

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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby msmith7361 » Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:45 pm

climbing_rob wrote:On a few semi-technical peaks (including a couple 14ers) I carry a little kit; a 7mm x 25 meter rope, an "alp 95" harness (3 ounces), 2 biners and a 20', 9/16" sling for "just in case" belays when someone is nervous about a move or two.


Rob, just curious what brand/type of rope you carry?

Thanks
Mike

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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby Monster5 » Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:27 pm

Thanks for the help!
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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby pvnisher » Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:48 am

If you're not going to be doing vertical stuff, you can get away with a half or twin rope. I have a 8x30 Edelweiss half and a 7.9x60 twin ice line that would work quite well for those circumstances where a long vertical fall is not likely, more like stopping a slide.

But if you're like most people, and decide you need a rope for whatever route on a 14er, you'll bring whatever rope you already have in the shed.

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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby climbing_rob » Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:58 pm

msmith7361 wrote:
climbing_rob wrote:On a few semi-technical peaks (including a couple 14ers) I carry a little kit; a 7mm x 25 meter rope, an "alp 95" harness (3 ounces), 2 biners and a 20', 9/16" sling for "just in case" belays when someone is nervous about a move or two.


Rob, just curious what brand/type of rope you carry?

Thanks
Mike
The 7mm is a Beal, but I have all sorts of brands for other ropes, no loyalty whatsoever.

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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby FCSquid » Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:04 pm

audiotom wrote:Doesn't Little Bear have fixed support?


This has been a touchy subject for a long time. The Hourglass is the only section on a standard route I know of where ropes are optionally needed and usually present. The contention with these ropes has been that they're usually in pretty poor shape and hanging one's full body weight against them is a potential recipe for disaster.

The Southwest Ridge is gaining more popularity now for the primary reason of avoiding the Hourglass entirely. Aside from this, I believe that all other standard routes on the 14ers can be climbed without pro.
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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby Jim Davies » Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:23 am

The Northwest Face route on Little Bear also avoid the hourglass, and is no worse than class 4 if you stay on route.
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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby DeucesWild » Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:41 pm

Here's my rack for an upcoming assault on Bross. Be prepared! I even carry a spare helmet.

rack for my upcoming bross assault.jpg
rack for my upcoming bross assault.jpg (137.5 KiB) Viewed 634 times
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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby pvnisher » Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:47 pm

I think you meant Sherman.
For Bross (and its gnarly subpeak, the nasty South Bross Face) you'll need a few Big Bros.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/Essential_Equipment/Protection/Active/Big_Bros_307.html.

Hence the name "Bross". It comes from a bastardization of the best pro needed for it.

Early climbers would bid their Sherpa adieu from Camp 4 and say they just needed a few Big Bros to get them to the top. When talking through the oxygen mask it is hard to speak clearly, and the other climbers thought they said they were going to the top of Bross. And the name stuck :-" .

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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby crossfitter » Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:57 pm

DeucesWild wrote:Here's my rack for an upcoming assault on Bross. Be prepared! I even carry a spare helmet.

bross assault.jpg


Don't you have your own rack to photograph, instead of stealing this guy's 6 year old picture?

http://circus-maximus.blogspot.com/2006/01/ozymandias-cheats-beta.html
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- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains
- Judgment and experience are the two most important pieces of gear you own
- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers
- Courage cannot be bought at REI or carried with you in your rucksack


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Re: Using Ropes on 14ers

Postby Brian C » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:07 pm

crossfitter wrote:
DeucesWild wrote:Here's my rack for an upcoming assault on Bross. Be prepared! I even carry a spare helmet.

bross assault.jpg


Don't you have your own rack to photograph, instead of stealing this guy's 6 year old picture?

http://circus-maximus.blogspot.com/2006/01/ozymandias-cheats-beta.html


Haha! Busted!
#-o
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