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aconcagua Nov 2011

Discussion area for peaks outside of the USA.
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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby polishruben » Sat Oct 08, 2011 6:32 pm

Another question, Acon. related :)
Does anyone have any experience with either Jetboil or MSR Reactor on high altitudes / cold weather use ?. I 'am getting mixed reviews on both.
( and no, not for snow melting, just for heating up water )

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby Moboy56 » Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:53 pm

can't speak about altitude with one, but pretty poor performance at 10 degrees at 900 feet. i wouldn't trust one on a trip like that, but maybe someone out there has a trick or two. you can paint the fuel canister black, which will help absorb sun and heat the gas, or put it in you sleeping bag or jacket but that could get bothersome to me.
“The proper function of man is to live, not to exist. I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them. I shall use my time.”
Jack London

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby Scott P » Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:01 pm

Does anyone have any experience with either Jetboil or MSR Reactor on high altitudes / cold weather use ?.


Canisters actually work better the higher altitude you are assuming the temperature is constant (the lower the air pressure, the greater the differnce in pressure between the canister and the outside air, thus they work better the higher you go). It's usually colder at high altitude though, so this is offset so they usually don't work as well.

I haven't had the best of luck with my Jetboil in cold weather. If you keep the canister warm though, it is better. I know people have taken them on Aconcagua and gotten by. The new Jetboil Helios is supposed to work much better in cold weather.
I'm slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby Gabriel » Sun Oct 09, 2011 12:30 pm

I did Aconcagua Solo (not alone) via the normal route 6 years ago, but in mid Dec. The route was totally dry and conditions were warm and pleasant. I only spent one night above basecamp at Nido and the meltwater pond there did not form an ice layer. I never needed to melt snow, but did take an XGK which was not necessary. A better choice would have been my Jetboil or just summiting from basecamp and buying meals and beer from the many dining tents offerering services. Interesting: when I came down there were guys that I had seen up high saying they had been "weatherd off" Nuts, like being weathered off Waikiki beach.

Have fun,

G

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby jbchalk » Sun Oct 09, 2011 12:38 pm

+1 on canisters at high altitude. They have worked fine for me at Aconcagua altitudes and much higher.

Check out http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=1895&view=weatherer for Aconcagua on-mountain weather.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby EmmaM » Sun Oct 09, 2011 3:10 pm

I don't mean to hijack (too terribly), but is anyone planning on going this January? If so, send me a PM.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby polishruben » Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:36 pm

thanks for the input!! I was thinking of taking the dragonfly for snow melting and the reactor for early breakfast stuff, where I can just cook something without getting out of my sleeping bag. But now, I wonder, maybe the REactor would be enough to melt snow and cook meals ? Is that a stupid idea ? This way, I could save the precious weight, especially since I am not getting the mule support.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby ulvetano » Sun Oct 09, 2011 10:13 pm

My whisperlite worked grt last year for everything. Don't know about the other msr's, but I'm sure they would work. No mule and I think u r doing the traverse right? Save the weight and the space.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby MyFeetHurt » Sun Oct 09, 2011 10:54 pm

polishruben wrote:thanks for the input!! I was thinking of taking the dragonfly for snow melting and the reactor for early breakfast stuff, where I can just cook something without getting out of my sleeping bag. But now, I wonder, maybe the REactor would be enough to melt snow and cook meals ? Is that a stupid idea ? This way, I could save the precious weight, especially since I am not getting the mule support.


I may be doing Aconcagua in January, so I'm also interested in stove choice. But I can tell you that my MSR Reactor sucked bad for melting snow last April at 11,000' in the Indian Peaks during a minor blizzard. The sole reason is the canister getting too cold and losing pressure. It started off great and held the wind out, but it lost effectiveness quite quickly. It's hard to beat white gas.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby msmith7361 » Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:41 pm

You might want to look into some softshell pants rather than your planned MH Compressor + silkweights + Goretex shell combo, which seems that it might be a little overkill. I just did Denali on May/June with MH Sarpa's for most of the way. I put silkweights on underneath above 14k, but even used that combo on summit day. I used MH Compressors for a couple nights in the tent, but that's it. Took Marmot Precip shell pants just in case, but never needed them. My guess it you could use softshell pants almost the entire time on Aconcagua.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby polishruben » Mon Oct 10, 2011 7:52 pm

msmith - I am bringing a few different pants, my list isnt exactly final, but planning on soft shell pant by bear gryll ( don't laugh, they are awesome :), mh compressor ( in case the weather drops ), montbell ultra light down pants, silk longjohns and possibly the g.tex light shell. For upper body, mh monkey jacket, Marmot Greenland parka, and g.tex shell. I am still researching mittens. I really want to get the north face himalayan mitt, but if I won't be able to get them for a good price I may just stick to Marmot Exped.

I know some people run up the mountain in trail runners, but some folks experienced weather that gave them chills even in "green boots". I am putting lots of effort and planning into this trip. I don't want to ruin it by not bringing clothes for all weather.

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Re: aconcagua Nov 2011

Postby msmith7361 » Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:29 am

Definitely understand not wanting to be under-prepared, but also keep track of your weight and bulk. What size/kind of pack are you carrying?I'd recommend trying on your pant systems here in colder conditions. I think if you used every layer you're carrying, you'd overheat, especially while moving.

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