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Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Discussion area for peaks outside of the USA.
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Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby davebks » Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:28 am

Anyone been to these peaks? I am weighing some options of the Alps vs Bolivia....
Here is a trip that sounds pretty interesting. I am definitely looking for some peaks with a technical element to it. Not just trail/easy scrambling to the top.
Thanks!
Pequeno Alpamayo (17,618 feet), Huayana Potosi (19,974 feet) and Illimani (20,201 feet),
http://www.patagonicas.com/bolivia-classic-climbs/

I am also looking at these, which are bigger and more technical

http://www.patagonicas.com/bolivia-technical-climbs/
Anyone done that sucker?
Illimani (21,201 feet), Ancohuma (21,095 feet) and Illampu (20,873 feet),
Last edited by davebks on Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby jrbren_vt » Fri Nov 05, 2010 11:17 am

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby JB99 » Fri Nov 05, 2010 12:46 pm

Dave, we didn't end up making the trip (yet) due to finances but we were planning to hit those 3 on our honeymoon last summer... I was in touch with Marco Soria at Bolivian Journeys (I think is the company name) and he was really helpful and reasonably priced for logistic support or a complete guided trip. I'll send you his email if you'd like.
"You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not."

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby davebks » Fri Nov 05, 2010 1:13 pm

Thanks. I have been trying to figure out what's best/next for my climbing career and it sounds like those are beautiful peaks. Maybe not as technical as I am looking for though, but if you have some info you can send me, I'd definitely follow up.

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby Fiemus » Fri Nov 05, 2010 1:27 pm

davebks wrote:Anyone been to these peaks? Huayana Potosi (19,974 feet)

Climbed Huayana Potosi in 2001 after a couple of weeks of mountain biking down there (with these guys http://www.gravitybolivia.com/index.php?mod=homeb). We got driven back from the summit ridge due to strong winds, but it was still a great climb even without making the summit.

I'd thoroughly recommend this book: http://www.amazon.com/Bolivia-Climbing-Guide-Yossi-Brain/dp/089886495X
Yossi really opened up Bolivian alpinism to the world. Unfortunately he was killed in a climbing accident on El Presidente in '99.

If you have any other specific questions feel free to PM me or post them here.

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby davebks » Fri Nov 05, 2010 2:10 pm

Heres another trip thats more technical....
http://www.patagonicas.com/bolivia-technical-climbs/

Anyone done that sucker?
Illimani (21,201 feet), Ancohuma (21,095 feet) and Illampu (20,873 feet),

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby astrobassman » Fri Nov 05, 2010 2:55 pm

I was down there this past June. We climbed P. Alpamayo, H. Potosi, Illimani, and Sajama. All of them were good climbs in different ways. Well Potosi was a bit of a joke, but still fun. None of them were too technical. Bolivia is a great place to go for an adventure to climb some high peaks. I want to go back someday to climb Illampu and Ancohuma. I was even thinking about going back in 2011 to attempt those two, but probably won't be able to make it down there next year. Contact haliku on this site for info on Illampu. He made an attempt a couple of years ago. A friend of mine at work climbed Illampu and said it was pretty tough. If you want to see a trip report on the peaks I climbed click on my profile and there is a link. Do you have any specific questions?

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby Wyoming Bob » Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:10 am

Climbed there in '01, 06 and '07. Did the Condoriri and the Huyana Potosi gig but best was the Apolobamba, well off the tourist trail for sure. www.climbingwithbob.com has write-ups for Pequeno Alpamayo, Huyana Potosi, and a trip down the length of the east side of the southern Apolobamba range.
Wyoming Bob
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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby schrund » Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:42 am

I climbed those three back in '01'. Pequeno Alpamayo was located right next to Illusion which we climbed the day before we climbed Pequeno Alpamayo, there's a short rock pitch near the summit of Illusion, the highest rock I've ever climbed at around 17k. Huayna was fun, glacier travel basically, with the steepest parts leading to the summit. Illimani is a big mountain, and the drive to get there was as much an adventure as the climb. We did all three in rope teams since there are glaciers, and there were some steep parts as well.
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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby davebks » Tue Dec 14, 2010 4:47 pm

Ok, so to add some more to the pot, how about Cordillera Blanca. Love it? Didn't love it? Which are THE peaks to climb?
I am considering that area, or Bolivia still.
How about the people/culture, beauty...? Any difference there?
Is one just that much more awesome then the other?
Thanks!

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby Adventurgal » Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:05 pm

In 2006 we summitted Huyana Potosi (19950) and Murarta (19,500). Then again in 2009, we ventured back to LaPaz and knocked off Illimani. I loved Potosi (first climb over 19k for me) and Illimani. I highly recommend climbing in Bolivia - affordable, reasonable weather. In November 2010, we climbed Cotopaxi and Cayambe and I liked Ecuador (country, less poverty, etc.,). However, I'm moving on to Peru this year to see what I can find. I've heard everything is a bit better in Peru. If anyone has thoughts or insights, please share.

Good luck.

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Re: Anyone climbed in Bolivia?

Postby davebks » Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:11 am

Morning, I have definitely heard that Peru has been modernized compared to Bolivia. My only problem with Peru right now is that the peak I want to climb is out of commission and the others are either too easy for what I am trying to accomplish, or they are too $$$ for the ones I really want to try.
I think Illampu, Illamani, etc might be the better bet because they will be a challenge and less money. If you know of a good middle group, semi/fully technical peak in Peru that doesn't break the bank, please let me know! I would love to go there too.

Side question, for those who have been to Bolivia, did you take any side trips? What else did you see while you were down there?
Thanks!

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