Who is climbing Rainier 2015?

[metalmountain]

In regards to the pack weight. I carried the tent and personal gear (as little as possible to get by) while my partner carried the rope and his gear. We managed to work it out so we were both pretty comfortable with the weight. Again, there are some things we could have left out I think. I didn't bring any changes of clothes to speak of. I wore up what I planned on wearing for the next couple days and packed a few extra layers. I didn't have any camp shoes or anything like that, carried a light weight pad and the tent we carried was a 3 season tent (we had a great weather window). My partner actually only carried a half pad and half sleeping bag, then just slept in his layers that he brought to climb in. He is also a tough old man who makes his oatmeal the night before, puts it in a ziplock bag, and then eats that oatmeal cold in the morning just to save time. I think he slept in his harness as well so he didn't have to put it on in the morning.

[ChrisinAZ]

[quote="ChrisinAZWent last summer, unguided, as part of a two-person team. We had practiced our crevasse rescue skills, etc beforehand but didn't have a ton of glacier experience. I would've felt better having had one or two more people on our rope, but we ended up having no issues. quote]

just curious about the 2 person team, apparently it is acceptable? Did you practice crevasse rescue with one person doing the entire extraction? Seems like it would be pretty difficult to hold someone and set up a pulley system.

[/quote][/quote]

The rangers allow it--we received no further scrutiny than a roped 3- or 4-person team. We did practice crevasse rescue as such, but like the other poster mentioned, we also simply did our damnedest not to fall into a crevasse! It would indeed be difficult to hold a fall and set up an anchor with just one person; were we not on an established route with obvious crevasse crossings, I don't think I would've done the climb with just one partner.

Odds are, you could get up and back safely with a two-person team if you stick to the DC route with good conditions. But, if you have the option to have more people on your team--take it.

[SHmids]

Just attempted this past weekend with a couple of Seattle area friends. Out of 5 days on the mountain, had 1 perfect weather window day, but miscellaneous factors added up to hitting our turn around time at about 13,400.

Had an absolute blast though. Did Gibralter Ledges by the ridge approach, then descended Ingraham Direct with no beta on what the route was like after a major avalanche from a couple of weeks prior that went all the way down to Ingraham Flats.

Some great glacier route finding fun including a little (15 foot'ish) fall into a big crevasse that my partner promptly (after cleanly catching my fall and making sure I was okay and could climb out!) dubbed 'Tumble Crack'!

Have to say the winter experience was pretty special! Don't think many people get see only 5 other people on the entire upper mountain and get the Ingraham Direct route completely to themselves!!

I may be back in June...we'll have to wait and see what mountain is calling most loudly at that time!

[Chico_P]

I'm so jealous. Would love to tackle Rainier in the winter. Pics man pics!!!

Just attempted this past weekend with a couple of Seattle area friends. Out of 5 days on the mountain, had 1 perfect weather window day, but miscellaneous factors added up to hitting our turn around time at about 13,400.

Had an absolute blast though. Did Gibralter Ledges by the ridge approach, then descended Ingraham Direct with no beta on what the route was like after a major avalanche from a couple of weeks prior that went all the way down to Ingraham Flats.

Some great glacier route finding fun including a little (15 foot'ish) fall into a big crevasse that my partner promptly (after cleanly catching my fall and making sure I was okay and could climb out!) dubbed 'Tumble Crack'!

Have to say the winter experience was pretty special! Don't think many people get see only 5 other people on the entire upper mountain and get the Ingraham Direct route completely to themselves!!

I may be back in June...we'll have to wait and see what mountain is calling most loudly at that time!

[Chico_P]

Anyone doing rainier this year wanna get together for a brew on the northside?

Just wanna discuss routes and training advise. And drink beer. All are welcome. How about http://4nosesbrewing.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for a meeting place?

[GregMiller]

I'd be up for it.

Anyone doing rainier this year wanna get together for a brew on the northside?

Sounds like an all right idea, I'm free tomorrow.

[SHmids]

I'm so jealous. Would love to tackle Rainier in the winter. Pics man pics!!!

[/quote]

I'm working on it! Tons of fun pictures to sort through! I will at least get a link to my Facebook album here soon.

[dixiecragger]

I'd love to climb Rainier this year. My wife is from Lynnwood and nearly every year we make the pilgrimage to WA state for several weeks. I've always wanted to attempt a summit but don't know anyone in the area. I usually end up beating around the state doing solo hikes/camping as I can only take so much of my mother-in-law , lately the trips have turned more into multiple day excursions... I do extensive backpacking and have been an avid rock climber for years. I also do vertical caving which involves a lot of rope climbing. I do however lack technical skills as far as alpine mountaineering. Haven't been any further up than Muir. I'll be in WA state for 2-3 weeks probably sometime between the end of June and end of July. I'd love to throw in with a group/rope team and go up via DC route with someone more experienced in alpine travel. I already have all the gear I need and am able to break away and go ANYTIME while I'm in WA state. Spending days on Rainier can't be any worse than spending days with my mother-in-law!

[pvnisher]

Where are you guys staying pre-climb? Whittaker Bunkhouse or elsewhere? I've stayed there twice and it was ok.
I know IMG has a tent city, but I don't know if it's open to independent climbers.

Any other suggestions for a pre-climb stop? Looking for either a bed or a place to pitch a tent, shower, bathroom, and preferably wifi for wx forecast since the cell signals often suck.

[GregMiller]

We stayed at the inn at Paradise last year, and would recommend it. Small rooms, and no wifi and almost no cell signal, but you can walk over to the ranger's office for a weather forecast. It was nice not having to drive anywhere the morning of the climb.

[I Man]

Curious about the DC route as I have never done it. Many in WA are saying they are having a low snow year (I feel they always say that). I have always been under the impression that all summer is prime season for Rainier by the easy routes, but now wondering if late July/Early August would be bad news for the DC.

[Scott P]

DC is climbable late season, but it isn't as pleasant when there isn't snow on the Cleaver itself. The Disappointment Cleaver is much better when covered with snow. Early season you can do the Ingram Glacier Direct as well, which is more pleasant than a dry Cleaver. Once the snow bridges melt out, the direct is harder and there is serac fall danger.

In dry years, going early season is best, though the weather is more fickle then.