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Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

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Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby apasquel » Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:37 pm

Hi guys, got a permit for this year and am looking at my options...checked out the forums for info and have not found what I am looking for. I know of the standard class 3 route after the notch that goes up 400 ft. However, I've read about a north face traverse right after the notch as well. What is this route. Do you guys have any pics with a line of the route? What class? I plan on doing the stadard route, but would like to know there are other options on the same route up the notch.

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Alan Arnette » Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:41 pm

Not if my TR from the MR is what you need but here is the link: http://www.alanarnette.com/ca14ers/whitney.php

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby susanjoypaul » Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:37 pm

If you just continue past the "Final 400" you'll locate a faint trail through a jumble of loose talus (class 2+). The route switchbacks up to the summit. That's the way we came down, and the only sketchy piece was a short section of very hard, steep snow - nothing serious, though, and a lot easier than downclimbing the class 3 route. That trip report is here but unfortunately we didn't include any photos of that part.

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Stone_man » Thu Mar 15, 2012 12:13 pm

Did the Mountaineer's route up the chute in late June of 2008. By then the ledges were dry, so one could avoid the very steep snowfield that persists there. In this kind of condition, the chute route was a fun scramble and descending it was no big deal, though it's quite steep and the ledges are pretty narrow in spots. Probably feels more like class 4 by Colorado standards, IMO.

FWIW, the Whitney Portal Store runs a web forum with a message board on mountain conditions (link posted below). There should be a thread there on Mtneer's Route conditions. I found it pretty useful to gauge real-time mtn. conditions and might be of use to you in assessing route choices prior to your trip.

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=1&page=1

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby apasquel » Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:28 pm

thanks for the good info guys!

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Steve C » Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:47 pm

WhitneyZone has a good north slope traverse thread here: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Several pictures in that thread give a good view of the area apasquel is asking about. And here is a view of the Final 400 routes that old timer BobR has climbed: His caption is "Routes I've done above The Notch" routes picture ___ In the picture, the traverse is actually the horizontal line at the bottom of the picture, and continues out of view to the right of the picture.

Ah! Here is a picture by BobR of the "Easy Walkoff", which is the route in question: The 'easy walkoff' looks treacherous today

A year or so back, some climbers reported being at the notch when they heard a significant rockfall occur from one of the chutes in that traverse. Most people nowdays just climb the first chute.

Here's a thread with videos climbing that first chute: Mountaineers Route, Final 400 chute videos
And finally, more Mt Whitney Mountaineers Route info: Mountaineers Route info links within...

One last note: If you post Mt Whitney questions on WhitneyZone, you are sure to get an answer.

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Palmyra J » Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:35 pm

I did the Whitney E. mountaineers route last July. Simply amazing... not enough adjectives available to describe. Don't short change and do the pedestrian route as you will miss way too much beauty. The Portal info is good advice for current conditions. My group camped at Upper Boy Scout Lake, and it turned out to be a good call. We summited early on day two, and were nearly hit by lightening as early as 11:30am on the decent. Reminder..this is not Colorado, your start is at 400 ft. above sea level at Lone Pine. Lots of vertical gain. We were among only 6 climbers on the mountain that day. Superb.

I keep in touch w/ a couple of folks that shared the mountain that day. Let me know if you are interested in any current contacts. I do know they have had a very dry year, with little snow pack. Get ready for lots of talus.

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Palmyra J » Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:53 pm

final couloir, up Whitney's North flank
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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby nyker » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:38 am

Jane, when were these pics from?

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Boggy B » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:24 pm

Steve C wrote:WhitneyZone has a good north slope traverse thread here: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Several pictures in that thread give a good view of the area apasquel is asking about. And here is a view of the Final 400 routes that old timer BobR has climbed: His caption is "Routes I've done above The Notch" routes picture ___ In the picture, the traverse is actually the horizontal line at the bottom of the picture, and continues out of view to the right of the picture.

Ah! Here is a picture by BobR of the "Easy Walkoff", which is the route in question: The 'easy walkoff' looks treacherous today

A year or so back, some climbers reported being at the notch when they heard a significant rockfall occur from one of the chutes in that traverse. Most people nowdays just climb the first chute.

Here's a thread with videos climbing that first chute: Mountaineers Route, Final 400 chute videos
And finally, more Mt Whitney Mountaineers Route info: Mountaineers Route info links within...

One last note: If you post Mt Whitney questions on WhitneyZone, you are sure to get an answer.


Awesome post! =D>

Lots of good info here, especially the "Routes I've done" photo. I think the standard way to do it (with snow) is the first chute (first left) after the notch. Interesting that he doesn't have a route straight up the chute, which is probably the most common way to do it with snow. (?) When we did it last Memorial weekend, one group continued traversing right and climbed the next chute, while the other two parties and ourselves went up the first. We descended the same way.

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby Palmyra J » Fri May 18, 2012 11:40 am

nyker wrote:Jane, when were these pics from?

Sorry Nyker,

Just saw your question, so late in responding. These photos were from mid July 2011. That was a high snow year. There were multiple high/fast water crossings on the early part of the trail. But that made for good hard pack in the morning at altitude, and only shin deep post holing later in the day.

Regarding the chutes, we stayed left on the first chute to the left. Firmer rock/talus per one of our party that had done the route several times.

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Re: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer route options

Postby djkest » Fri May 18, 2012 1:59 pm

sorry to hijack:

How hard is it to win the Whitney lottery? If I want to climb whitney next year, and enter on the first day, do I have a pretty good shot of getting in?
Seems like Longs Peak would be a good training hike for whitney- which is obviously a little longer.
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