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Best Non-Standard Routes?

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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby highpilgrim » Thu Sep 05, 2013 12:57 pm

tlongpine wrote:
highpilgrim wrote:The Crestones from the west side via Cottonwood Lake.


Sure, but you're giving away sunrise on the Needle and the South Colony Lakes.



Sunset works pretty well there. And there's this, which isn't bad at all...

needle.jpg
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby tlongpine » Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:28 pm

highpilgrim wrote:
tlongpine wrote:
highpilgrim wrote:The Crestones from the west side via Cottonwood Lake.


Sure, but you're giving away sunrise on the Needle and the South Colony Lakes.



Sunset works pretty well there. And there's this, which isn't bad at all...

needle.jpg


Touche.
I am unable to walk away from the mountain without climbing it. An unclimbed mountain tugs at my consciousness with the eternal weight of time itself. Until I've pressed my face into it's alpine winds, hugged it's ancient granite walls, and put it's weathered summit beneath my heal I'm unable to resist it's attraction.Knowing nature gives the mountain more time than she gives us adds urgency to the obsession. As has been said before; the mountain doesn't care.

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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby tlongpine » Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:32 pm

geojed wrote:Crestone Peak NW Couloir, formerly the "Standard" route on the Peak but not anymore and then traverse to Crestone Needle. It saves you 1000' too because you don't have to drop down to Cottonwood Lake. I saw no one the whole day until I got back to SCL on a busy summer weekend!

http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=12836


Does anyone have GPS waypoints for this route?
I am unable to walk away from the mountain without climbing it. An unclimbed mountain tugs at my consciousness with the eternal weight of time itself. Until I've pressed my face into it's alpine winds, hugged it's ancient granite walls, and put it's weathered summit beneath my heal I'm unable to resist it's attraction.Knowing nature gives the mountain more time than she gives us adds urgency to the obsession. As has been said before; the mountain doesn't care.

It can wait forever. I cannot.

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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby geojed » Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:51 pm

Here's another good one that I did. It's a great way to do Ellingwood Pt and Blanca even because it completely avoids the Lake Como Road and saves you 4mi compared to starting at 8800' on Lake Como Road. Very secluded too! Saw no one until I reached the summit. You avoid all the noisy 4WD jeeps and 4-Wheeling yahoos on the LC Road too. \:D/

Alternate Route For Blanca/Elllingwood - Via South Zapata Lake
http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=12100
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby Jay521 » Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:02 pm

geojed wrote:Here's another good one that I did. It's a great way to do Ellingwood Pt and Blanca even because it completely avoids the Lake Como Road and saves you 4mi compared to starting at 8800' on Lake Como Road. Very secluded too! Saw no one until I reached the summit. You avoid all the noisy 4WD jeeps and 4-Wheeling yahoos on the LC Road too. \:D/

Alternate Route For Blanca/Elllingwood - Via South Zapata Lake
http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=12100

+1 on that one. I did that route as a result of Jed's TR and didn't see a soul until the summit of Ellingwood Pt.
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby Nelson » Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:33 pm

I have to second the NW face of Little Bear. That is a great climb and you get a good look at the LB/Blanca traverse.

I would add the Southwest Ridge of Ellingwood point.

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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby djkest » Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:13 pm

SW Ridge on Sneffels
NW Face on Lindsey
SW Ridge on Ellingwood Point
N Buttress on El Diente

There are so many good ones out there, very solid fun routes. Never hurts to do some exploring.
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby csmcgranahan » Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:29 am

I will second Antero from Raspberry Gulch. Also liked Halo Ridge on Holy Cross and Grays from Horseshoe Basin.

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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby Alby426 » Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:40 am

The Camel and North West couloir ( aka Knight's couloir) on Longs, hands down. The Camel approach is wonderful, with a great view of the Diamond. The NW couloir is a great shortcut to the summit but, not for everyone.

Kelso, on Torreys is a great way to summit that mountain.

Quandary, all other routes but standard are fun!
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby flyingmagpie » Fri Sep 06, 2013 12:08 pm

I completely agree with Alby 426. I really like especially the NW Couloir of Longs. It is an entirely different and solitary way to experience this wonderful mountain. The Kneeling Camel route from Chasm Lake does give a great view of the Diamond Face.

To everything that has been suggested so far, I would like to add Kit Carson from South Colony Lakes. The route is a lot longer now that the S. Colony Road has been closed at the first stream crossing, but this approach gives climbers a chance to tag (or bypass) Obstruction Peak, and then Columbia Point. These are much more fun to climb than Challenger! This route too is solitary. One caveat: because it requires so much time to do, leaves climbers vulnerable to sudden changes in afternoon weather. You've got to keep an eye on the sky.
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby TakeMeToYourSummit » Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:08 am

The non-standards I've done this summer have been a blast:
NW Ridge on Lindsey (Standard down)
W Ridge on Quandary (E Ridge down)
Tour de Abyss (E Ridge to Bierstadt/Sawtooth/Evans)
Tour de Princeton (Grouse Canyon up, Standard down)

As you can see - I like doing loops! Of these Princeton had the biggest difference in the non-standard vs standard in terms of fun... If I did it again I'd return via Grouse Canyon. The only way I'll be on that standard again is climbing snow with my snowboard on my back. :P
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Re: Best Non-Standard Routes?

Postby doggler » Sun Sep 08, 2013 10:23 am

Assuming we're talking about 14ers only. Following are a few that haven't yet been listed.

SE ridge of Eolus
W face of Elbert
E ridge of Massive (from Fish Hatchery)

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