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Summer San Juan Plans

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby steelfrog » Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:44 am

I just booked three nights at the San Juan huts for mid August; will do Sneffels and the peak above the North Pole Hut; maybe the Grand Traverse (not the Gores one, the San Juans one). Any suggestions for a "best scramble" around there, no ropes required? Can Dallas or Teakettle be done without ropes?

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby steelfrog » Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:44 am

T think the north pole peak is called Hayden maybe?

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby big_red_pride » Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:50 am

atbaritone wrote:Like you need more advice...but here is mine.

Consider doing Sunshine/Redcloud/Handies all in one day if the weather is good. Do Sunshine/Redcloud in the morning, take a nap, then a quick jaunt from American Basin to Handies before sunset. This is a good plan if you are behind schedule at that point in your trip.

I've twice been to Chicago Basin in mid- to late-August and have been able to manage early morning summits both times. Just remember that an unsuccessful climbing trip (meaning, no summits attained) is better than a successful day at work. Go to Chi Bas in August and have a blast.


Thanks for the advice. The thought had crossed my mind to get Redcloud/Sunshine and Handies on one day and I still may do that. Also, thank you for the info on the Chicago Basin. I will look more into that trip for August.

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby Mtnman200 » Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:06 am

Yes, Dallas and Teakettle can both be done without rope. All of the 200 highest, except Coxcomb, can be done without rope. Whether you want to climb Dallas without rope depends on your comfort level with exposure. Teakettle really just has a short pitch to the summit that's lower 5th class but didn't feel all that exposed to me.

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby ChicagoMike » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:09 pm

The Telluride Bluegrass festival is June 20th to the 23rd. There will potentially be a lot of traffic on Sunday afternoon going north towards Montrose.

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby bj » Wed May 01, 2013 4:44 pm

it's an ambitious, but very doable schedule! Good luck with it.
Just a drinker with a climbing problem..

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby SilverLynx » Wed May 01, 2013 4:54 pm

I need all of the San Juans except for the ones surrounding Lake City. So I guess that makes 9 peaks. The first weekend of July is booked for me but other than that my schedule is open. If anyone wants to make plans let me know. This summer I would really like to get the Wilsons and Chicago Basin.
"I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear."
~Nelson Mandela

"Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition."
~Steve Jobs

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby screeman57 » Wed May 01, 2013 6:21 pm

SilverLynx wrote:I need all of the San Juans except for the ones surrounding Lake City. So I guess that makes 9 peaks. The first weekend of July is booked for me but other than that my schedule is open. If anyone wants to make plans let me know. This summer I would really like to get the Wilsons and Chicago Basin.


I, too, am planning on doing the Wilson and Eolus groups in July, along with some Centennials. Let's try to coordinate.
"Never measure the height of a mountain until you have reached the top. Then you will see how low it was." -Dag Hammarskjold

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby SilverLynx » Wed May 01, 2013 6:46 pm

screeman57 wrote:
SilverLynx wrote:I need all of the San Juans except for the ones surrounding Lake City. So I guess that makes 9 peaks. The first weekend of July is booked for me but other than that my schedule is open. If anyone wants to make plans let me know. This summer I would really like to get the Wilsons and Chicago Basin.


I, too, am planning on doing the Wilson and Eolus groups in July, along with some Centennials. Let's try to coordinate.

Sure! :-D
"I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear."
~Nelson Mandela

"Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition."
~Steve Jobs

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Re: Summer San Juan Plans

Postby LuLuLuv » Wed May 01, 2013 10:33 pm

I've done Handies from both trailheads, I thought both approaches were beautiful. One of my favorite peaks. American Basin is a quick hike up, but it took us a good half hour to 45 minutes to drive around from sunshine/Redcloud. I would definitely think about getting an SUV, I would not want to drive Nellie Creek road in anything but one. Agree with San Juan Ron about San Luis, we drove from Lake City over Slumgullion taking back roads, CR 788 (I believe) it was a pretty drive but took much longer than we expected. At 2 to 2 and a half hours.

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