| Peak(s): |
A Dozen Winter 14ers - 14000 plus photos from the - 14000 Winter Gathering 2011 - 14000 |
| Date Posted: | 06/01/2011 |
| Date Climbed: | 03/19/2011 |
| Author: | Dancesatmoonrise |
| Peak(s): |
A Dozen Winter 14ers - 14000 plus photos from the - 14000 Winter Gathering 2011 - 14000 |
| Date Posted: | 06/01/2011 |
| Date Climbed: | 03/19/2011 |
| Author: | Dancesatmoonrise |
| Winter 2011: A Photographic Exposition |
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Winter Mountaineering 2011: A Photographic Sojourn Peaks Elbert, South Elbert, Cathedral Rock, Yale, La Plata, Blanca, Little Bear, South Little Bear, Pikes, Shavano, Tabeguache, North Massive, Longs (failed attempt,) Sherman, Bierstadt, Massive, Harvard. Dates December 25, 28 January 1, 7, 13, 23, 29 February 10, 15, 22 March 2, 5, 7, 10, 15, 19 Preface A look back at the winter in photos and brief descriptions, created for friends and 14ers family... I hope you'll enjoy this photographic journey through the twelve weeks of calendar winter, 2010-11.  La Plata Peak, seen from South Mount Elbert, December 28, 2011 PART ONE: GREAT EXPECTATIONS The pre-winter season going into December 2010 remained relatively dry, particularly in the Sangre, raising hopes for ascents of two of the harder routes on the winter wish list: Little Bear's SW ridge and Kit Carson's north ridge. But Old Man Winter has other ideas: the day before Solstice, a major storm hits the state, raising avalanche danger and technical difficulties. Old Man Winter gets the toss; the 2010-11 season starts out on defense. Little Bear SW Ridge attempt, December 25, 2010 "Impatience often precedes retreat."  Christmas present from the Sangres. A recon to South Little Bear Peak on December 12 finds surprisingly favorable conditions. But after the big Solstice storm on December 20, an early winter ascent looks out of the question. By Christmas I grow impatient and head south, knowing a summit is likely not in the cards. After three hours of carefully stepping through 18" of unconsolidated snow hiding the holes between talus blocks, I throw in the towel at 10,800. Bears lead, two-nothing.  Right after Solstice and the big storm.  Hard to believe conditions were looking so good as late as December 12, 2010.  Winter recon: Matt Strausser on the summit of South Little Bear, December 12, 2010. The "Mama Bear" traverse is in the clouds. Mt. Elbert and South Elbert, December 28, 2010 "It's easier to change route choice than avalanche conditions."  Looking roughly south from the summit of Mt. Elbert. Avalanche danger remains uncomfortably high for serious routes, so Mt. Elbert's low-angle east ridge makes a great stand-by. I've climbed it in November and March, but not in winter; it's a good choice while waiting out overall snowpack conditions. The east ridge provides for a fun day with some great partners. Two of us wander over to South Elbert while we're up there.  The east flanks of Mt. Elbert display some beautiful aspens.  Three dots on a broad ridge.  Steve crosses the 13880 saddle over to South Elbert.   Cathedral Rock, New Year's Morning, 2011 "Fifth class climbing skills are often surprisingly handy on fourth class routes."  It's not a 14er, but it's a lot of fun to do on New Years Day. Cathedral Rock, aka Grey Rock or Kindergarten Rock, is a beautiful formation in the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs. Amy ("shredthegnar10") and I enjoy a clear day and a nice break from typical lengthy winter approaches on this fun, mostly fourth class route.    Looking north from the south summit of Cathedral Rock, New Years Day, 2011. Mt. Yale, January 7, 2011 "Never do anything in a group you wouldn't do solo."  Darin Baker makes way up Yale's northwest summit ridge, January 7, 2011. Still waiting out conditions for a Kit Carson or Little Bear attempt, the snowpack is finally stabilizing enough to allow something like Yale. A few of us motley mountaineers convene to make a push for a slight variation on the standard Denny Creek approach.  Left to right: James, Darin, Kieth, Mike, Greg, Jim   Mount Yale's summit is at far right. Point 13605 is on the ridge, left of the photo. At 12,700, I'm headed nearly due east on a relatively dry, direct line toward Yale. The gang heads N/NE toward Point 13605. The line toward 13605 has a snow/slope combination I'm not comfortable with, and likely wouldn't do solo this time of year. I raise a pole, get a response, and stay with the direct. It's fairly dry, and an hour faster. As I ascend alone, I'm beginning to think I made too big a deal of avalanche concerns. Still, I'm happy, ascending a relatively dry line: I've found it hard to get dry rock to slide in winter. On the summit, we decide the direct line is best, so we take it for the descent. Mike is the only guy on skis, so he takes a slightly different line, with enough snow to ski. We're all surprised when he kicks off a 4" crown in shallow snow on a west aspect. He skis hard left, avoiding the runout. That little bit of wry mountain humor provides a nice winter refresher to start the season.   The essential Zen koan of winter alpine travel was summed up nicely by my friend Mark Van Horn, one night when we were up at Skinner hut, skiing the backcountry for a few days: "If it didn't slide, were you right? Or were you lucky?" We all know a few older alpinists who seem to have lived through many years of winter mountaineering. But my guess is they're not beating the odds, as much as stacking the odds well in their favor.  PART TWO: THE WELCOMING ARMS OF WINTER By early January 2011, the snowpack stabilizes to a sufficient degree to start allowing more serious routes. The weather begins to cooperate nicely as well, rendering some of the most enjoyable trips of the winter season. La Plata Peak, January 13, 2011 "Descending by headlamp in winter is a given." (Kiefer Thomas)  Ben crests the headwall on La Plata's NW Ridge. One of my favorite trips of the entire winter. Ben Conners ("Benners") and I enjoy a really great January day on La Plata Peak. We sort of take a relaxed attitude about start time. Like, way too relaxed. By the time we get to around 11,000 feet, it's quite late. Ben parks his skis, and I, my snowshoes, to avoid a steep loaded snowfield, where we head directly up through treeline. We're hoping for mostly dry conditions ahead, but end up postholing mid-thigh deep for half a mile. At this point, we both know a summit bid is out. But somehow, reaching the headwall renews the excitement of summit fever on a gorgeous afternoon, rewarding us with nice sundown photos and another winter 14er in the bag.  The Headwall. We chose a fourth class variation, seen at left skyline. The rock here is solid.  Ben.  Jim.  Sundown.  We enjoy liberal use of Kiefer's sage wisdom on a warm winter's night.  Blanca Peak, January 23, 2011 "An alpinist may push personal limits following critical assessment of two key factors: The weather, and the alpinist." "It gets late early out there." (Yogi Berra)  Looking west from high in the Blanca-Ellingwood cirque. Ben and I decide to hook up for another peak. I'm looking forward to meeting Matt ("Pioletski,") his usual partner in crime. Matt is strong, fast, skilled, and a heck of a nice guy, like Ben. I'm pleased to meet Ben's friend David ("Zambo") since I had to turn down a Capitol trip with them last Fall. Though hoping they would be interested in the Little Bear project, being extraordinary ski mountaineers, Matt and Ben naturally want something with the hope of skiing. Too, the forecast is not perfect: a pre-requisite for Little Bear. The Blanca-Ellingwood attempt would give Matt and Ben an opportunity to ski Ellingwood, and provide me with beta shots of the Mama Bear traverse (South Little Bear to Little Bear portion of the SW ridge) for an upcoming winter attempt.   Once again, we find ourselves underestimating time. We soon realize we'd have to start picking it up if we want even one peak, though none of us is stranger to a winter descent by headlamp. Ellingwood doesn't have quite the coverage we'd hoped for, but Ben and Matt still get a few thousand verts on the way out; I get beta shots from Blanca.  Looking roughly north into the Huerfano Valley from the Blanca summit ridge.   The east side of the "Mama Bear" traverse, seen from the Blanca summit. Little Bear Peak is the high point at the far right end of the prominent ridge, just left of center.  Taking a direct line on Ellingwood's south face. (Photo: Matt Kamper)  (Photo: Ben Conners) The sun sets on our way down past the upper lakes, but none of us can complain about descending in darkness on another pleasant winter evening.    Little Bear Peak, solo ascent, January 29, 2011 "The skill of the alpinist lies in the artful pairing of an appropriate weather window with the route of interest." "Ninety percent of this game is half mental." (Yogi Berra)  Little Bear Peak and Ellingwood Point, as seen from the summit of South Little Bear Peak, January 29, 2011. Little Bear is my favorite solo trip of the winter season. Just to be sporting, the peak does not yield easily: I get to enjoy the SW ridge three times. The first is the trial run before winter, on December 12. Thanks to 14ers member LynnKH for adroitly guiding the team to the correct departure point. (It would be hard to call it a trailhead.) We find relatively dry conditions right before winter. The SW ridge involves a great deal of talus, and in new snow, one must be extremely careful not to poke through into the space between blocks, because a twisted ankle (or worse) may result. Thus, the time and care required to negotiate the talus in such conditions precludes a summit bid on the Christmas morning attempt. Now January, a successful winter summit is more feasible, but will require patiently waiting for good snow conditions and a decent weather window.  The route looks a little more feasible by the time of our Blanca trip on January 23, when this photo was taken. The long ridge seen in the photo comprises most of the SW ridge route in its extent above treeline, and about half of the overall route. The Mama Bear traverse, seen at right, is almost entirely above 13,800 feet. Our Blanca trip the week before provides the beta photos for both east and west aspects. The snow looks consolidated enough. I know the route and the trailhead. Now it's a matter of waiting out a reliable weather window, and hoping it comes before winter's end. Then a wonderful thing happens. A high pressure ridge half the size of the western hemisphere moves in. You could see it coming nearly a week ahead. With each passing day the forecast actually improves. This is historic, clearly violating Murphy's Law of Winter 14ers. ("Any winter weather window chosen for the purpose of ascending a winter 14er, shall deteriorate by the time such window actually arrives.") Given that winter is half over, this is a blessing from heaven not to be missed.  The San Luis Valley spreads out to the southwest at the foot of the Blanca Massif. My friends and usual climbing partners, Matt and Micah, want Little Bear as well, only they want the Little Bear-Blanca traverse, necessitating a shorter approach from an overnight high camp at Lake Como. It's difficult to turn the invite down, but the SW ridge had long since become a singular goal for winter. All of us know we may be looking at our one and only shot this year for these routes. So Matt and Micah go up the night before to camp at Lake Como; I stay the course to solo Little Bear Peak via the SW ridge and the Mama Bear traverse.  The west side of Mama Bear. South Little Bear Peak is at right, Little Bear Peak is at left.  Blanca and Ellingwood are seen from the summit of South Little Bear. Turns out the three of us are the only ones on the massif that day. It's encouraging to hear whoops and hollars coming from somewhere over on the LB/Blanca traverse as I summit SLB first, then LB. It's a banner day for all three of us, each on our respective routes.  Cresting the summit of South Little Bear Peak, 1:20 pm, January 29, 2011. The hourglass notch is seen at right, from the east side. This photo was taken by Micah Morgan, during his climb of the LB/Blanca ridge.  The Mama Bear traverse is a sharp ridge with approximately 2000 vertical feet of drop-offs on both sides. Doing this alone in winter requires solid committment, and a realistic assessment of one's skill set. It had taken several minutes at the top of South Little Bear before I was able to coax myself into starting the traverse.   Typical exposure on Mama Bear.  The way back is easier, following my earlier footsteps. Here, a series of ledges is required to regain South Little Bear, before descending the SW ridge.  Looking back at the Mama Bear traverse on the descent. One must take the snow-covered catwalk at center to get back onto South Little Bear. You can see my footsteps at the bottom of the frame, right of center. After a successful winter solo of Little Bear, I find it difficult to get motivated to do much else. But winter is more than half over, leaving more than a half dozen peaks remaining to meet the goal. Still, I find it nice, if only for a short while, to bask in the reverie of having travelled this incredible route in winter...  PART THREE: RACING THE OLD MANWhat was God thinking when he made the jet stream? I would have thought if He wanted us to fly, He would have given us wings. I find myself cursing the jet most of the latter half of winter, huffing and puffing and running the bases to slide into home before the baseball of Equinox hits the catcher's mitt of Spring. Normally, I can't wait for winter to be over. But paradoxically, doing winter 14ers will have a guy begging Old Man Winter to slow down. (If Woody Allen were an alpinist he'd have a joke about that...) It's just that one has to be neurotic to have this bent desire to climb 14,000 foot peaks in winter. Or schizophrenic, if one wants to really enjoy it. The last half of winter, my homelife starts to resemble the credential. Pikes Peak, February 10, 2011 "When faced with avalanche danger in the alpine, it is often helpful to remember that it is extremely difficult to get a dry ridge to slide."  The west bowl below Devil's Playground at sunset, Pikes Peak, February 10, 2011 We pay for that gorgeous weather on January 29 many times over, when the jet stream decides to park permanently over the state for the remainder of the season, resulting in extreme winds across most of the alpine. I need a break from the driving and rigors of winter 14er'ing, so choose an ascent of the "home peak."  Pikes Peak granite is some of the finest in the state.  I'd never seen spooky snowpack in this area on Pikes. Here, a large slab breaks out under the weight of footsteps. The unsafe area is circumvented by backtracking, heading up into the rocks, then taking a high traverse into the bowl.    The summit house can be seen at top left.  The alpine winds are harsh, but fortunately not dangerously high.    The evening mellows, as last light holds off a few more minutes till arriving on the solidly packed trail below. Mt. Shavano and Tabeguache Peak, February 15, 2011 "You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there." (Yogi Berra)  Mt. Shavano and the "Angel of Shavano" are seen from the 250/252 junction, about three miles below the summer TH. Well, I really need a two-fer about now, if a dozen ranked 14ers are going to happen before winter's end. Micah and I climbed Shavano and Tabeguache with Ken Nolan last April, but that doesn't count as a winter ascent. I decide to head out solo for this long day. I make the absent-minded mistake of not taking the Angel of Shavano Campground trailhead, which would have saved a little mileage and vertical. We took this last April and it worked well. Not sure what I'm thinking this year, but no matter, despite Yogi's admonitions, all goes well, and the winds are actually not too bad.  The South Arkansas River Valley is seen below, with Poncha Springs and the Sangre de Cristo Range beyond.  The summit of Tabeguache Peak. "North Massive," February 22, 2011 (April 2010, coming off Tabeguache) MountainMicah83: "So, Ken, are you retired and just climb 14ers all the time?" Ken Nolan: "Well, my boss is beginning to think so."  Ken Nolan invites Dave Cooper and I to join him on North Massive. Dave Cooper is the author of several Colorado guidebooks and a great photographer, so I'm excited to meet him. I enjoy his company immensely; he's a great guy and quite humorous. North Massive, while not formally a ranked 14er, has been included as the 59th 14er by each of the four persons to have completed the Colorado 14ers in calendar winter.  Ken and Dave. North Massive is the peak seen at top center.  Ken Nolan on the northeast ridge. It gets breezy enough to provide some great photos, but not so gusty as to be dangerous.    Ken tops out on North Massive's summit. I secretly hope my partners want to do the traverse to Massive, but it's not in the cards. I'm happy to get the "59th 14er" but can't really count it as one of the dozen ranked 14ers - meaning I'm still behind. No matter, the great route and the great company is better than any list.  Longs Peak North Face, failed attempt, March 2, 2011 "I'd rather fail on a hard route than succeed on something easy." (My two younger partners...) "90% of the putts that are short don't go in." (Yogi Berra)  Longs Peak, east face, aka "The Diamond," from Mills Moraine, seen en route to the North Face. Here's an example of not matching a correct weather window to the task at hand. Athough not a successful summit, I've included Longs because it's one of the most exciting routes of the winter, coming in as one of my three favorites. We know going into it that conditions might be harsh, but Micah has only this date free, so we decide to give it a shot.  "The Boulderfield" in foreground, Diamond at left, and North Face directly in front. Much of the route is covered in snow. The North Face is interesting because the technical section is steep granite, and has several "eye bolt" fixed placements. These are large spikes, placed into the rock, that were used to hold a cable, many years ago, for the purpose of aid in climbing the steep rock section. The cable has long since been removed, but the remaining eye bolts are reputed to be solid anchors for fixed protection which may be utilized for the technical ascent.  A closer look at the technical section of the North Face.  The breezes start to get a little rough.  We find more snow than anticipated. The first eyebolt is probably under four feet of snow. The biggest difficulty we encounter is the wind gusts, estimated to be in excess of 70 mph. Shortly after our attempt, I learn that another mountaineer is picked up and carried 50 feet by high winds, below our high point, on nearby Mt. Lady Washington. After being pummelled by hard gusts and spindrift coming off the summit, we turn back at the second eyebolt on the granite face.   The adverse conditions have all three of us wondering about the wisdom of a continued attempt, but none of us wants to be the first to "call" it.  Matt leads the technical rock section. The camera fails due to adverse conditions. We make the call to retreat shortly after this photo is taken. Although it's a failed attempt, I'm satisfied with the effort and the trip for several reasons. One, it's the first time any of us had stepped foot on Longs Peak. To see it for the first time, in winter, in these conditions, and to return safely, is a blessing. Two, although conditions are much more harsh than forecast, we know going into it that we do not have the weather window we need, so the necessity of a retreat is not a great surprise. Three, we are able to function efficiently as a team of three. (Efficient climbing is a challenge with three on a rope.) And four, we made the decision to retreat simultaneously, and as a team. I could not have asked for more of any partners. I would add one more reason, which may or may not be such a good thing - the thrill of making it back alive from a potentially life-threatening adventure. Honestly, as the weather became more intense moving through the 13,000 foot range, I really began to question a safe outcome. It is an incredible sense of release to have experienced such conditions at altitude, to have made the correct decisions in the midst of those conditions, and to have returned safely. Normally, I completely avoid such weather. Gaining some experience in adverse winter conditions is probably a good thing. Mt. Sherman, March 7, 2011 "Easy peaks in tough conditions can be way tougher than tough peaks in easy conditions."  The Hilltop mine complex, seen from the White-Sherman saddle on March 7, 2011. After the Longs failure, I'm really needing to bump the count in a hurry. It's already March. Winter is over in a couple of weeks. I still need four peaks. I decide to go for Sherman, reputed to be one of the "easiest" winter 14ers. As this year's weather would have it, Sherman shows it's teeth on March 5, 2011, chasing off a group of five of us in knock-down winds.  The historic Leavick mine site, at the usual winter trailhead, Fourmile Creek road. For the next two weeks between now and the end of winter, I decide to forego any weather criteria except for winds. I begin searching only for a "wind" window, and find a calm day for March 7, even though a major storm is in the forecast for later in the day. I'm also not going to drag any other poor soul into my sordid attempts to finish the winter goals - I'll do this one solo. But dispite my strongest caveats, (and much to my pleasure) Dave Cooper volunteers for the position.  Sunrise on March 7, 2011. Our day is looking much better than the forecast.  Dave.  The Hilltop mine-house.  Turns out we end up with a really great day on our hands. Dave is down to a T-shirt by 13,000 feet on the morning's ascent. The storm eventually comes in by the time we're back at the cars. The trick is picking the weather window directly off the GFS and NAM models, and ignoring the standard NOAA forecast (Apologies to the good folks at NOAA. They've actually been very helpful with site links, understanding the graphs, etc. Good folks. But sometimes alpinists have to think for themselves.)  Nearly back at the car, the storm really starts coming in. Mt. Bierstadt, March 10, 2011 "We made too many wrong mistakes." (Yogi Berra)  Winter is drawing to a close, but wait! I still need three winter 14ers! Bierstadt/Evans, with or without the Sawtooth, looks like one of the few two-fers left on the roster. Finally, a nice day, and not too much wind. I waste it with a few errors, like stashing the skis too soon and taking a direct line through the willows with unrelenting postholing. This results in insufficient time to get both. Has this been a tough winter? Or am I just getting older? Maybe both. No matter, I get home with one more winter 14er in the bag... Ten days left of winter: one more down, two left to go. Still, a great solo trip.    The Sawtooth ridge.  Looking across Guanella Pass Road toward the Divide: Argentine, Greys, Wilcox, Torreys, Edwards.   Mt. Massive, March 15, 2011 "Nordic wax is better than skins when you get it right. When you get it wrong, it's worse than snowshoes."  Mike Bean skiing off the Mt. Massive summit, March 15, 2011. I met Mike on Yale this winter. We decide it would be fun to get together on another 14er, so we go for Mt. Massive from the Leadville Fish Hatchery. Mike is quite the alpine skier. I provide plenty of entertainment on my "flip flops" - aka, tele skis. I mostly use them for long flat approaches, and decide this trip will fit the bill. I'm not sure I'm any faster on skis, but Mike gets a chuckle or two out of it. It's fun photographing his descent. To our mutual surprise, some of the best powder of the season is found right off the top of the summit.    Mt. Harvard, March 19, 2011 "To say it was a great time is the understatement of the year. Thanks to all involved - especially to Kiefer and Steve for organizing!" (dmccool) "It was incredible being with everyone on the mountain at the same time. It was more than a winter gathering, it was a celebration of us as a mountaineering community."  The upper Horn Fork Basin, looking north to Mt. Harvard (top center.) Keifer Thomas and Steve Gladbach put together a winter gathering for the final weekend of winter, camping in the Horn Fork Basin and climbing Mount Colombia and Mount Harvard. It's a wonderful way to enjoy the mountain with old friends and meet a lot of the folks on 14ers.com. See Kiefer's excellent trip report for full details of the weekend's event: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=9740&parmuser=kiefer&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include  Saturday morning: The track is a frozen highway, bootable all the way to camp. It's Saturday morning. I'm a little nervous because there's only one full day of winter left, I need one more peak, and the forecast is not great. Columbia is already in the winter bag from last year, making Harvard my quarry for the day. The group plan is for Columbia, but I'm hoping a few folks will be on Harvard. No matter, it will be fun to hang out with friends in camp afteward. It's eerily quiet coming in mid-morning behind what promises to be a large group somewhere on the mountain. I find the trail hard-packed all the way to the Horn Fork Basin camp, allowing for fast travel in boots. On the way in, I meet Kay and Don ("Trailsntails'.) Wonderful folks; we enjoy chatting for a bit before heading on. I'm soon across the bridge and up into the Basin, where camp is deserted. A ghost town of brightly colored nylon tents adorns the meadow like so many colorful balloons at a strangely surreal festival. I don snowshoes, making haste to catch up with the group.  Camp is eerily quiet in midmorning's light. To my pleasant surprise, I bump into Tom Pierce on his way down; he tells me the plan switched, and the group is actually climbing Harvard today. Joy!  Upper basin.  The group makes way for Harvard's summit, seen at top right.  James' Gang. ("Fletch" and friends, with Mt. Yale in the background.)  The upper Horn Fork Basin, with Yale seen across the Cottonwood Creek drainage.   Otina.  Kiefer.  Carl.  Prakash.  Harvard's south summit ridge. Finally on the summit, a twelve-week race to the finish this winter, and a great way to enjoy winter's end in the company of friends and partners.  Eric. (Eric, "Lostsheep5," completed the 14ers last year at age 16.)  Harvard's summit blocks can be interesting.  Dancing shadows of spindrift.   A last look back at Harvard, as the light gets flat heading back to camp.  Hanging out in camp.  Left to right, John (Fepic1), Steve (sgladbach), Caroline (USA Keller), Bill Middlebrook, Britt Jones (Globreal.) It's wonderful hanging out with everyone in camp Saturday evening. Though I choose not to enjoy some of the libations (I still have to descend to the car that evening,) I find the joyful company of climbing partners and friends, old and new, as intoxicating as the mood is festive. Back at the car, a full moon lights the landscape on the drive home. What an incredible way to bid Old Man Winter adeu, and ring in the joy of spring!  The winter-gathering 14ers gang! Back Row: Scott P, Prakash, Bobby Finn, Kiefer, Katie Finn, Kevin (papillon), Terry Mathews, Eric (lostsheep5), Otina (bergsteigen),Carl (wesley), Marc Barella, Kelly (moonstalker), John (fepic1), Britt (globreal.) Front Row: Steve (sgladbach), Sarah (wooderson), Dave (carpeDM), Jim (dancesatmoonrise), Dan (dmccool), Greg (summitlounger), Stephanie (ridgerunner.) Well, those few light airy months of the year are just around the corner. Heres wishing all of you a joyful summer! Thanks for reading. -Jim  ... |
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