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 Peak(s):  Denali - 20,340 feet
 Post Date:  10/24/2010
 Date Climbed:   05/08/2010
 Posted By:  mtnmike

 Denali 2010 - West Buttress   

Denali2010-West Buttress
 


  • Comments or Questions
Brian C


Wow.     2010-10-24 19:21:02
Nice effort and most importantly a safe return. Loved the photo from your tent showing a sea of clouds. Nice post!


Adventurgal


Thanks - Great Report & Pics     2010-10-24 19:45:14
I am hoping to climb Denali in 2011, and appreciate your detailed trip report. I also got HAPE while climbing Illimani in Bolivia last year after returning from the summit. I spent a sleepless night in a tent at 15k waiting for morning - scary stuff. I too was told by my Denver doctor that just b/c you get it once doesn't mean it will happen again.


jbchalk


Nice report     2010-10-24 19:59:29
Great writing and pics! Sorry to hear about your HAPE incident and happy to hear you got down safe & sound. You'll get the Big D next year!


MountainHiker


Great Report     2010-10-24 20:51:44
Glad you made it down safe. It must have been disappointing after all the planning and effort involved. It looks like an awesome place.


mattrts


good luck     2010-10-25 16:46:14
wish you the best of luck next year. great report. Kudos to the NPS, great job. glad you made it back.


jimmtman

Great Effort     2010-10-26 22:28:55
I'm glad you are ok. It was great that you knew what to look for to diagnose the HAPE. I hadn't experienced something as serious as HAPE so it was eye opening how quickly it came on and how debilitating it is.

I'm thinking about doing Denali perhaps next year and your very detailed trip report is great reading. Your itinerary seems pretty good - 3 nights at 11.5k and 4 nights at 14.2k before going to high camp. Did you feel an extra day or two might have helped or was it just bad luck? Did you feel like you were in tip-top shape before you left. Is there anything you plan to do differently in 2011? Do you live in Denver and hence some a base elevation of 5000+ ft or were you traveling thru?


cfb

Give it another try     2010-10-31 17:53:01
As a retired NPS Ranger who spent 20 years in Alaska, I spent time as a Medic at the 14,200' camp. As you said, most who are transported from that camp aren't in any condition to enjoy the trip out. Hope you give it another shot in 2011. Like you, I've climbed high and then, unexpectedly on another trip, got HACE at elevations I'd climbed before. Weird. Keep us all posted on your future plans and, buena suerte.


Kzar


Great Adventure     2011-12-28 08:19:46
Sorry that your trip ended short with HAPE but sounded like you had an awesome adventure, and that is what is all about. I too have climbed with AAI and have high praise for them. I'm glad you had such a great partner that took this in stride, I can imagine that being a tough position for him. Good luck on your next ascent. I just got the ok from the wife to try Denail. Seriously considering it.


MountainMedic


Great Report     2012-07-22 22:35:30
Incredible report - while I hope to one day make it up there it's but a pipe dream now. Glad to hear you made it down OK and I hope you made it back last year. Do you have any more info on the medic services? I'd love to know more about the medics up there. Thanks!



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