Peak(s):  Hiamovi Tower - 12,220 feet
Post Date:  10/23/2010
Modified:  10/24/2010
Date Climbed:   09/25/2010
Posted By:  Marcos

 Hiamovi Tower, Southeast Buttress   

Kyle and I wanted to get in one last long technical day before the summer ended, so we headed to the uncrowded side of the Indian Peaks. Armed with four pages of Gerry Roach's Indian Peaks guidebook and a few tons of hardware, we left the trailhead in the dark at 6:00 AM. Our plan was to daytrip the SE Buttress on Hiamovi Tower.

The route is rated 5.4 (III). Endless variations are possible, and there are lots of places to bail if needed. We did it in 5 pitches due to accidentally bypassing the first buttress and then combining the first two pitches on the second buttress (60m exactly). My favorite pitch was "The Ramp" on the second buttress - superb position. We had terrific weather, moved fast, and encountered very little rockfall. We were back to the car by 7:30 PM.


- The elevation gain is actually 5,700'. It would be more comfortably done as an overnighter.

- The "4th class" chockstone in the chimney accessing the main ridge is more like low 5th class. Sorry to ruin the surprise.

- The guide describes a casual 3rd class descent of the west ridge. Maybe we didn't look hard enough, but we ended up rapping some high 4th class at a place where others had obviously done the same. Bring bail rings.

- If you plan to daytrip it, bring a water filter. There's no way to carry enough water with you, as we found out on the eternal descent.

Route ascends right skyline

First pitch of the second buttress ("The Ramp")

Kyle following the last pitch of the second buttress

Following the final pitch of the third buttress

Rapping a vertical section of "3rd Class" on the descent

Go to this lake before dropping into the valley

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

  • Comments or Questions
colorado yooper

Very Nice     10/24/2010 14:50
Still have to get up there, thanks for the motivation


Nice Trip Report     10/24/2010 22:40
So many hidden gems in that range. Thanks for posting.


Long Day     10/25/2010 04:29
This is a great looking route. Thanks for posting. I haven't seen much about it besides from the Roach book. This is on my wish list, along with all the other great peaks in the IPW on the west side.


Hells Canyon     11/02/2010 17:40
is a special place. I wish we could see more than 10 feet in front of us last time we were there. Lots of obscure 12ers in that region. This looks like a classic route, job well done.

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