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 Peak(s):  Hiamovi Tower - 12,220 feet
 Post Date:  10/23/2010 Modified: 10/24/2010
 Date Climbed:   09/25/2010
 Posted By:  Marcos

 Hiamovi Tower, Southeast Buttress   

Kyle and I wanted to get in one last long technical day before the summer ended, so we headed to the uncrowded side of the Indian Peaks. Armed with four pages of Gerry Roach's Indian Peaks guidebook and a few tons of hardware, we left the trailhead in the dark at 6:00 AM. Our plan was to daytrip the SE Buttress on Hiamovi Tower.

The route is rated 5.4 (III). Endless variations are possible, and there are lots of places to bail if needed. We did it in 5 pitches due to accidentally bypassing the first buttress and then combining the first two pitches on the second buttress (60m exactly). My favorite pitch was "The Ramp" on the second buttress - superb position. We had terrific weather, moved fast, and encountered very little rockfall. We were back to the car by 7:30 PM.

Notes:

- The elevation gain is actually 5,700'. It would be more comfortably done as an overnighter.

- The "4th class" chockstone in the chimney accessing the main ridge is more like low 5th class. Sorry to ruin the surprise.

- The guide describes a casual 3rd class descent of the west ridge. Maybe we didn't look hard enough, but we ended up rapping some high 4th class at a place where others had obviously done the same. Bring bail rings.

- If you plan to daytrip it, bring a water filter. There's no way to carry enough water with you, as we found out on the eternal descent.

Image
Route ascends right skyline


Image
First pitch of the second buttress ("The Ramp")


Image
Kyle following the last pitch of the second buttress


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Following the final pitch of the third buttress


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Rapping a vertical section of "3rd Class" on the descent


Image
Go to this lake before dropping into the valley



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (4)
colorado yooper


Very Nice     2010-10-24 08:50:18
Still have to get up there, thanks for the motivation


Floyd


Nice Trip Report     2010-10-24 16:40:31
So many hidden gems in that range. Thanks for posting.


astrobassman


Long Day     2010-10-24 22:29:16
This is a great looking route. Thanks for posting. I haven't seen much about it besides from the Roach book. This is on my wish list, along with all the other great peaks in the IPW on the west side.


lordhelmut


Hells Canyon     2010-11-02 11:40:48
is a special place. I wish we could see more than 10 feet in front of us last time we were there. Lots of obscure 12ers in that region. This looks like a classic route, job well done.



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