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 Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,255 feet
 Post Date:  09/25/2010
 Date Climbed:   09/24/2010
 Posted By:  javy20040

 Longs Peak-Keiner's   

Fellows!

We did the Keiner's yesterday, the climb was awesome! The Lamb Slide and the 1/2 and 2 inches of snow accumulation about 12.000 feet change the whole history.

The weather was perfect, 55 degrees, sunny and not wind.

Longs peak is clear of snow all the way to 12.000 feet, about it there is 1/2 inch of accumulation in some spots and 1 inch and another.

Lamb Slide was OK.(really HARD snow) the first 300 feet, the last 500 feet was a 45/55 degrees ice-climbing(it was a 55 degrees glacier). The last 400 feet here were really technical ice-climbing. We were using ice-axes and ice-screws. It was really mentally hard, slow but fun. Winter8000m was right, "one slip, your gone"

The east facing chimneys and the Diamond are clear of snow. The conditions looks great.

Broadway was so much fun!!! Clear of snow with some snow patches.

It weren't snow on the Keiner's route about Broadway because it got sun all they and the snow melted, so this part of the climb was moderate fast.

Descending the North Face(Cable Route): It was a little slow until we got to the bolts and rappel. The 1/2 or 1 inches snow on the North Face made the descending a little slow.

It took us 16 hours to get back to the car. It was so much fun. We got to do hiking/ice-climbing/alpine-mountaineering/rock-climbing and rappelling in one day. Awesome!!!!!!!!

Thank you to all of you for the replies about Longs conditions.

Javy

 


  • Comments or Questions
lordhelmut


16 hours     2010-09-25 19:29:05
You beat us by an hour. It took an eternity, but a memorable one at that.



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