Resolved to get Mt Wilson before it snows, and after our defeat the week before, Mark and I met Zach in Avon and rushed to Navajo Lake. We made camp a bit after sunset and were up and hiking b4 sunrise.
Wilson Peak at sunrise.
El Diente's first light
Again up into the basin we hiked towards Gladstone Peak, the trail is well cairned and soon we started the scrambling.
Gladstone Peak's shadow
Here's a look of the N slope route on Mt Wilson. The difficulty stays at 2+ maybe a few 3 moves, rock is very nice for the San Juans.
Wilson Peak and Gladstone Peak
We scrambled up the edge of the rocks and found the gully that meets the ridge, is was a little loose but ok on the sides.
Fun solid scrambling
The temptation to climb the small peak NE of Wilson was too great to resist. It was a good choice we were treated to astounding views of Lizard Head, Gladstone Peak, and Mt Wilson.
Mt Wilson from NE wilson
Quickly down-climbing to the top of the gully it was a short scramble to the notch and then up the final small ridge to Mt Wilson's Summit. I was pumped and soared to the top!
Looking down at the Crux from Mt Wilson
Mark on the Crux
Zack on the Crux
What a better day to be on Mt Wilson's summit! Worth the drive and hike in again to experience the San Juans one more time this summer!
I almost felt like climbing down was easier for once, you can kind of hug the crux and lower.
Looking up at the Crux
Back to the notch you turn left and descend the south side of the ridge.
Descending from Mt Wilson
We tried to climb directly on the ridge too early and were forced to backtrack down and around. Unfortunately we choose to stay too low for too long and missed the "coxcomb". The scrambling lower on the south side of the ridge was class 2+ but we felt like we missed alot of the glory and exposure that the ridge directly here would have provided.
Looking back to Mt Wilson
After regaining the ridge the climbing became much more exposed and exciting, the sky was clear the temp just right it was an amazing day to traverse! A short downclimb was needed to pass some towers.
Mark downclimbing a small chimney
Cautiously we continued and at one point we should have climbed up and over we went around and were forced to rappel.
The rope wouldn't pull through so Zach was stuck with the traversing downclimb, after I set a 6 piece anchor he made it safely across. We realized here on the other side it would've been best to stay on the ridge.
After this we found the Standard gully and Mark and I knew the rest of the route to El Diente From our rainy snowy experience the week prior. We traversed on the south side to the final gully and had a much better time with everything in its dryness.
The Gully leading back to the N side
Up to the top, here's a direct comparison from the week before.
The Notch this week
The week B4
Bam! El Diente down.
Zach on El Diente
Mark and I had to look down to try and see what we climbed in the fog and snow.
El Diente's N buttress
One more Bear shot!
This is the ledge after the notch and before the final gully that goes slightly down the south side.
The base of the N gully a horrendous downclimb like a horrifying shooting gallery, at least it was mainly dry this time.
We we're back to camp and out to the car an hour after sunset. We drove quickly back to Avon where I blew out a tire at 77mph and was the most scared of the trip.
That pretty much all of the 14ers for this climbing bear what a great way to end the summer!