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 Peak(s):  Grand Teton - 13,770 feet
 Post Date:  08/05/2010 Modified: 12/31/2013
 Date Climbed:   07/31/2010
 Posted By:  benners

 A Big Day in the Tetons: Grand Summit via Upper Exum   

TR here:


  • Comments or Questions

Congrats!     2010-08-05 13:19:41
Kudos to the team on a job well done! As usual, a great report Ben, excellent write-up and pics.


Nice fellas     2010-08-05 13:21:57
Well done...that is a big day but at least you didnt have to carry big packs. Light and fast - I like it!
Congrats on summitting a great peak!


Awesome climb!     2010-08-05 13:32:58
This climb is on my short list! Was even scheduled for this year as well. Oh well, there's always next year! Thanks for the great pics!


Nice work!     2010-08-05 13:47:31
Congrats on a job well done. Great trip report and excellent pics. I think you just bumped up the Grand on my list a few notches.


Well Done!     2010-08-05 13:54:14
Good work, fellas! I had the same feelings about the difficulty, but we chose to rope up for the same reasons you talked about, especially since we knew we weren't racing the weather.


Palms     2014-04-18 13:27:32
My palms are sweating watching you guys free climb some of those sections. Great report! Does any 14er in Colorado even come close or compare to it as far as difficulty?


I suggested you write the TR...     2011-05-02 08:23:28
because I knew you'd come up with something like this! Thanks for taking the time to put together such a detailed and accurate account of our trip Ben. It was a heck of a day.

Paul - The easiest route up the Grand is the Owen Spalding, which I believe has 3 5th class pitches, the hardest of which is 5.4. It also comes in at over 7,000 vertical and 15 miles. So yeah, I'd say it's harder than any Colorado 14er standard route. Although, some of those Chicago Basin 14ers would be mighty long in a day w/o a train ride and would present much more of a physical challenge. Just my opinion.


I'll also add...     2011-05-02 08:23:28
That I like how Ben (who was sleeping in the car) said the last thing he remembered before falling asleep was the stars. The last thing I remembered before falling asleep (outside, next to the car) was the fact that someone said they had just seen a good size grizzly bear 10 minutes up the trail!


Bravo!     2010-08-05 15:34:05
Amazing pics, it looks like you had a blast!


Most Excellent     2011-06-02 08:57:39
Trip report and photos are once again first rate. Thanks for the great read.


sweet!     2010-08-05 16:46:01
Awesome trip, sweet trip report, and phenomenal pictures! Looks like a great time!

I'd love to do this one as well.

Love, love, love the picture of the sunrise on the Middle Teton.


dang-it....     2010-08-05 16:48:52
can't believe I missed it. The rousing conversation that is. I will hopefully see the mountain up close and personal in a few weeks.


Truly Amazing!     2010-08-05 16:52:44
NICE WORK!!! You guys never cease to amaze me! Certified wild men, all of ya! Thanks! I love checking out your accomplishments.


One big climb with a side of humility     2010-08-05 17:27:23
”In reality the pitch lies back at an average angle of fifty degrees or so, hence the photos make it look much more intense than it actually was.” And here I was all impressed and stuff... You must be the only guy who actually downplays the difficulty of his climbs in trip reports. Great climb, great report - cheers for showing the rest of us how it's done.

Brian C

Awesome!     2010-08-23 08:48:42
This is a great report. Thanks for posting!!!!


Thanks for the beta Ben     2010-08-05 17:40:46
Glen and myself will be up there weekend of 8/27-30. Thats the eiptome of blitzkrieg climbing. Drive, sleep, climb, caffeine, head home, unpack, pass out.

Expect a phone call in the very near future. That shot of you climbing over the crest in your red jacket with the range in the background is awsome. I've always thought of that place as the Sangres on crack, with better views.

If you are still in a Jackson Hole frame of mind and want to get pumped for skiing way too early in the summer, check out ”Swift, Silent, Deep” - story of the JH Air Force. Pretty hilarious, retro bunch of renegades.


Awesome     2010-08-05 18:45:53
Great work guys! The Grand is an incredible mountain and you guys got it done impressively fast! Honestly, you were smart to do it in one day... hauling the extra gear up to and back down from the Lower Saddle sucks.

The ”Swift, Silent, Deep” recommendation is a good one... great movie.


Sweet!!!     2010-08-05 19:49:25
What a huge day. I am just amazed that you managed to stay awake for the 8hr drive home!!


'     2010-08-06 08:35:37
Thanks all!

Susan - Comments from you are always much appreciated. I think it's good to paint as realistic a picture as possible, even if that means admitting that sometimes the photos make it more than what it is.

Brian - Give me a call anytime, I'd be happy to talk about your upcoming trip...I'll check out the vid!

Randal - We definitely had to employ the one person sleeps in the back while the other two drive for an hour, then rotate strategy, with lots of caffeine thrown in there .

Chicago Transplant

Good Stuff     2010-08-06 09:19:14
Great photos, great descriptions, and very insightful! Its always great on these kind of peaks to read about peoples decision making and emotions. The mental game is hard to prepare for and its always great to hear what others were thinking. Looks like you guys had an amazing trip, congrats!!


Spectacular     2010-08-06 11:54:08
Strong work guys! Thats quite the day hike/climb, especially with the long drive on both ends!


Unassuming understatment     2010-08-06 14:54:30
Your understated, unassuming reporting style in our sometimes overstated, self consuming age makes your accomplishment even more admirable and your TR captivating.


Nice climb!     2010-08-06 16:06:12
Question for ya - how much climbing experience did the two of your have and what is your climbing level? i.e. 5.10+? I'm hoping to go up next month, but my climbing skills are rusty. some of comments make me optimistic me and buddy can knock it out without too much climbing expertise. ??

Steve Knapp

Epic day!     2010-08-06 22:02:56
This is awesome, thanks for posting. A one-day including Exum ridge is huge. But it's nice to avoid the permit process and not haul all that overnight stuff high onto the mountain. Kalet and I did the one-day deal last Sept and it was sweet. We only did the O/S route though. That was still fun, but I'd like to go back for Exum someday. Congrats!


Sweet     2010-08-08 15:42:36
I have the very same blue-gray hydration pack from pic #2. Thanks for posting this beta Ben. That's strong work. Did you guys have any route-finding issues / trouble finding rap stations, etc.? Did you just use SP and beta?

Ridge runner

wow     2011-01-31 17:24:16
Great work guys! Glad to see that the rain didn't last long and you were still able to climb. Those pictures are amazing! The Tetons are such a beautiful range and you captured it well!


Well done!     2011-01-18 20:38:48
Ben, Carl, et al... Consider me jealous and happy for you.


Now that is a mountain     2010-08-08 22:51:17
The Grand Teton looks like some cold brutal ice mountain from the Alps. Great sunrise pic, and I like that pic of Ben at the top of the Golden Staircase with Middle Teton behind. Strong effort gents, and congratulations. Enjoyed reading, and drooling, over your adventure. Outstanding.


The photos were, well, incredible...     2010-08-08 23:03:16
Nice work, gents. Enjoyed the story, the photos and the rock!


Wow ...     2010-08-09 10:31:30
Great photos of the route, and wonderful write-up. Congrats to all of you on a wonderful summit ... thanks for posting. Happy trails!

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