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 Peak(s):  Kit Carson Peak  -  14,165 feet
Challenger Point  -  14,081 feet
Columbia Point  -  13,980 feet
"Obstruction Pk"  -  13,799 feet
"Kitty Kat Carson"  -  13,980 feet
 Post Date:  08/04/2010 Modified: 08/27/2010
 Date Climbed:   08/01/2010
 Posted By:  bergsteigen

 The sun will come out tomorrow   


Kit Carson, Challenger Pt, Columbia Pt, "Obstruction Pk" and here Kitty Kat!


Trailhead: South Colony Lakes
Navigators: Darrin (kansas) and me
Mileage: 15.1
Elevation Gain: 6,756'
Kit Carson route: class 3+ gully

Choices: South Colony vs Willow Lake
It was a tough choice between two beautiful areas. I had originally dreamed of doing a car to car traverse, to avoid the out and back. But that was logistically a bit difficult. So after quite a bit of waffling, we arrived at the South Colony Lakes route. With the road closed, we would add a bit of mileage on, and backpack in further, to give the best possible chance of success with a poor forecast.

Note on road: With the new closure, I forgot how much walking the road sucks (I bought my off-road truck for a reason - I drove this road twice!). It adds on ~2.7 miles to the original road end and is not pleasant. They are also putting fliers on vehicles announcing the new "proposed" fees. $10 per person, for a day trip. $20 per person, per night, if you camp. Uggg. Looks like I will be finding a new approach to these peaks when I want some repeats or the other 13ers!

Once done with the road, the mile or so pack into our camp was pleasant, and rather like walking through a lush garden. About the time we found our campsite, a large ram crossed our path, but was a bit too quick for me, fumbling with my camera.
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Flower garden

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First view of the Needle

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We found a not quite flat tent site near "tree line" and were able to get through all the camp duties and dinner before it started to rain. We had hoped it would stop, before we had to go to bed, but it didn't. It just kept sprinkling. Once it was beyond time to slumber, the rain did stop, but then the wind started. About the best to be said about the wind, was that it managed to dry most of the plants and willows along our path up to the Humboldt saddle.

Crossing the ridge between Humboldt and Bears Playground took a lot more effort and time than we had anticipated (1.5 hours). With the misty fog around us, as well as the darkness, route finding took a while. The ridge involves some class 3 moves if you want the most direct approach, or more time and down climbing for class 2+.

When we reached Bears Playground, the nice flat grassy area, it was a relief that the crazy ridge was over. Of course, it was still dark and foggy, so finding cairns was nigh impossible. So we GPS navigated over to where the Obstruction Pt - Kitty Kat saddle was. As long as our right foot was further uphill than our left, we were headed in the right direction. As we neared the saddle, day began to unfold, and the fog lifted. We could finally see where we were. The sunrise from our vantage point was amazing. There was no moving me from my seat until the sunrise was over.

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We can finally see...

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Honey, we're gonna sit here and watch the sunrise.

Kitty Kat waking up:
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Ummm, wow....


The sun helped our cause by allowing a much easier ascent on Kitty Kat. The path up is pretty obvious and well cairned. The rock was still a bit slick from the night's rain and morning fog. Time and more sun would only help that cause. From Kitty Kat to Columbia Pt is an easy, close ridge walk.

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From Kitty Kat to Columbia

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Yay, 1 peak down!


Photo Credit: Darrin

On our way over to Columbia, on the SW ridge, we found the descent route as described by flyingmagpie



The shuttle does point in the general direction you need to go to find the route from Columbia to Kit Carson. Down climb the SW ridge until you see the route on the western face of Columbia (directly below the summit). It will be a series of ledges reasonably well cairned. The descent is down this main gully, until you hook a right, over a rib and follow cairns until the scree gully saddle that connects Columbia to Kit Carson.

Cross-over point:
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A look over to Kit Carson from a critical cairn


The wet conglomerate rock made the down climb a bit spicier than normal. We had to look for different features than otherwise cairned. No smooth slabs for us. Only dihedrals and cracks.


A bit slippery, when wet. Photo Credit: Darrin

The slab or the crack: crack wins! Photo Credit: Darrin

In the crack. Photo Credit: Darrin

Darrin exited straight down the last gully, but I decided to take the cairned route to the saddle. Much easier, and safer (for me) under the slippery rock conditions.

From there, it was a nasty scree gully descent to the start of the fault that cracks Kit Carson. We walked up the fault, and passed by the standard route, in favor of a much more solid class 3+ climb in a gully to the west. It reminded us of the standard climb up Crestone Needle. Very solid conglomerate hand and foot holds abound.

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Our lovely solid gully


Photo Credit: Darrin

Nearing the top! Photo Credit: Darrin

In a theme for the day, we had the summit to ourselves. Quite the view to be had! We only spent a short time on the summit, as we still had a long way to go.

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Dune!

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On to Challenger


We took the standard route down Kit Carson, and it was not so pleasant. It was just a scree gully. Very glad we went up the other more fun route! On our descent and climb to Challenger, we met our first hikers of the day, the only people we would see for most of our route. The avenue was a nice up and down ramp taking us to our next destination of the day, Challenger. From the base of the avenue, it was a short hike up to the summit. All ours, except for a summit pika.

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The avenue


Photo Credit: Darrin
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Take me to the moon...

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We have to go all the way back now???


On our return over the avenue, we were spotting our final serious climbing hurdle: back up Columbia Pt. At least now the rock will be dry! The route finding is done, and it was a fun scramble back up to the top.

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Columbia...

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Our lovely dihedral, crack


Starting up the crack. Photo Credit: Darrin

A tight squeeze! Photo Credit: Darrin

A short pause on Kitty Kat to snap a few pics, and look at our next possible target: Obstruction Peak. Would the weather hold off long enough to allow us passage? YES!

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The Crestones

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Obstruction Peak with Humbolt behind

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A quick run up our 5th peak...

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After the 20 minute jaunt up Obstruction, we now only had to tackle that annoying ridge and descent back to camp. But after one ridge feature, Darrin had enough. He declared we we going to descend one of the muddy scree gullies off of the ridge. I was tired, and my knees were sore from all the scrambling, so I was ok with the plan. I just wanted down!

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Playing with the bears

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A new vantage point of a favorite peak

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The traverse


Since our return from the western side of the range, we had noticed a helicopter approaching and circling the area. Not a good sign, but we hoped it was only a training mission of some sort. As we descended the scree gully, it became apparent that it was no training mission. The helicopter was hovering (and later landed) near the upper lake. It took a while, from our distance, to spot the SAR team. Then we knew some terrible accident had taken place. Now, looking on the Peak and the Needle, we could see evidence for mudslides down nearly every gully feature along the fractured and sculpted ridge. Walking past the SAR team, and talking with one of them, confirmed our suspicions. A couple had perished on the slopes above, and we were witnessing the recovery. Quite the sobering end to a successful day in the mountains. A reminder that we are just visitors here, and that respect for the wilderness is of the utmost importance. We only have control over our choices, the rest is up to the mountain.

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A big thank you to Custer & Douglas SAR!

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Contemplation of the destructive mudslides...


Note: I will edit the TR to put in some route photos/maps. Done!

Map of Trek:


Kit Carson route (Very much like Needle standard route, class 3):

Light Blue: Our ascent route
Green: Descent (standard route)


Columbia Pt Route (approximate - actual route may vary by user):


My comments from a recent thread:
"From Kit Carson follow the avenue to the scree gully separating Kit from Kat. Go up gully until a foot or two from the saddle. On your right, there should be a cairn up on a ridge to Kat. I went up at the easiest point. I remember a black rock as my foothold on the way down from Kat. Once a little bit up on Kat, follow the cairns as they lead you down parallel to the scree gully. This should lead you to a larger gully. Follow this gully up Kat for a short distance, always looking to your right for a cairn to take you over a rib and over to another gully. This gully intersects that fault that creates the shadow. Once around this fault to the right, you go up almost all the way until you get onto the ridge and turn left to the summit. I did my best to draw the approximate route we took on the face.

We followed flyingmagpie's route description as much as possible, as talking with Keith recently, he said they just sort of descended a gully that looked like it would go. From Kat to Kit, flyingmagpie's decription of the space shuttle pointing the way is dead on. We followed that SW ridge until an obvious ramp on our right, as seen in a photo of his.

On our trip from Kat to Kit we spent a lot of time trying to find the best route with wet rocks, and that is what we came up with. Most of the cross-over rib cairns were relatively easy to spot, if you keep your eyes open for them. It basically an ascending or descending right ladder traverse from either direction."


My Photo Album



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
Presto


Umm ... wow is right!     2010-08-04 12:17:57
What beautiful sunrise photos! Love the ”old school” route to Kit Carson ... thanks for posting. Happy trails!


Kevin Baker


Sweet!     2010-08-04 12:52:28
Those are some awesome sunrise shots, Otina! Great way to climb KC and Challenger. I remember that ridge between the Humboldt saddle and Bear's Playground be very tedious as well. Good choice to bail off it on the return!


KeithK


Glad Darrin isn't mad at me anymore...     2010-08-04 12:54:19
I could have sworn I told you guys to ”go up the really cool, pleasant scree gully, and avoid that nasty, gnarley ridge.” Hmm, must have been a misunderstanding. 8)


cftbq


Congrats     2010-08-04 13:16:13
A good route, well done. Wonderful photos, too.


smitty


Nice work!     2010-08-04 13:40:09
Looks like a great day in the Sangres! Great photos!


JoeyJ


I 2nd the wow is right!     2010-08-04 15:13:00
You may have a career in outdoor photography, as all your photos are quite good and some are outstanding!
Is that Kit or Kat Carson with the orange glow in the wow photo? (never mind- I missed the Kat caption on top 1st run) I love Kit and that mountain will always hold a special place in my heart.


Johnson


Presto took my opener!     2011-06-02 08:57:39
Amazing shots and nice report.


MtnHigh


Kit Carson Avenue     2010-08-04 14:23:56
Oh, so that's what it looks like! I traversed it from Challenger Pt to the summit route in mid-May 2000, full of snow. Quite the exposure, hoping my ice axe would hold on the snow,looking down onto the Prow.

Very nice TR and photos.


MtnHub


Wow!     2010-08-04 14:54:32
Your sunrise shot with the clouds would be worth the entire trip in my opinion! Fabulous! Thanks for sharing!


Doctor No


Nice work!     2010-08-04 17:47:48
Looks like a wild time! Love the dune shot.


Yog


Amazing     2010-08-04 21:13:02
That area is so amazing and you captured it well with your beautiful pictures! You guys are animals!!


DeTour


Thanks ...     2010-08-07 10:16:41
... for the new desktop background (photo 6) and great account of a route I covet. Here's one person who would love to see those additional route photos/maps if you add them. Trying to digest everything I can about that west slope of Columbia. Nice writeup, fabulous pics on a great route.


kimo

oh my god...     2010-08-08 22:57:01
That helmet decal cracks me up. As always, enjoyed the well-written report and great pictures. That sunrise scene is unreal.



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