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 Peak(s):  PT 13,300 B  -  13,300 feet
PT 13,302  -  13,302 feet
"SoSo, Mt"  -  13,417 feet
PT 13,310  -  13,310 feet
PT 13,340 B  -  13,340 feet
 Post Date:  07/30/2010
 Date Climbed:   07/27/2010
 Posted By:  Furthermore

 Deep Weminuche: The Sound of Silence. Part 2   

Continued from Part 1

I went ahead and climbed directly south up the north slopes of Peters Peak. The north slopes of Peters Peak were steep but the climbing was easy with some occasional class 3 moves. From the north slopes, I intercepted the west ridge and hiked to the summit where I arrived at 6:20 AM just a little past sunrise. The alpenglow on Oso and other peaks was astonishing.

Alpenglow on Oso from Peters.
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Alpenglow on 13,222
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Summit ridge on Peters.
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Sunrise on Peters with Rock Lake.
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More Alpenglow on Oso.
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After a short summit stay I worked my way down the class 2 west ridge of Peters. The east ridge directly up 13,222 didn't look very good. From the Peters-13,222 saddle the route became more obvious and from the saddle, I climbed up talus of the east ridge of 13,222 for ~200 feet then traversed left to a prominent rock ledge/gully which took me to the south ridge of 13,222. Some class 3 climbing was encountered up the rock gully. Once on the south ridge, it was an easy hike to the summit where I arrived at 7:00 AM with clear skies.

Ridge up 13,222. The rock ledge can be noticed on the left.
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Looking up the rock ledge up 13,222.
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Looking down the rock ledge on 13,222.
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From 13,222, I descend towards 13,300 traversing on some talus to the saddle. It was an easy class 2 climb to the false south summit (Point 13,180 on the topo) of 13,300. On the traverse the true summit blocks difficulties' became obvious. I left the false summit and hiked north. There are 2 false summits on the ridge toward the final summit block. The ridge started out as a class 3 knife edge ridge on solid rock with plenty of exposure to the first false summit. It was some really fun climbing. I descended down from this first false summit where the crux of the climb was encountered. The crux was a class 4 bulge to gain the second false summit. I thought the moves were tough but the rock was very solid and the class 4 moves weren't very exposed compared to the class 3 knife edge ridge. Someone had left a sun rotted piece of webbing for the climb. I didn't/wouldn't want to use that webbing.

Summit ridge on 13,300
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Summit ridge on 13,300
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Neat rock.
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Once on the second false summit, there was some more exposed class 3 scrambling to the true summit where I arrived at 8:10 AM. Fun finish. I returned back and felt the class 4 down-climb was the trickiest part technically of the trip. I could see why someone wanted webbing for this down-climb.

Exposure? Class 3 Knife ridge.
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Looking back on the false summit.
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13,222 and Peters from 13,300.
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The Class 4 Crux on 13,300. Notice the webbing?
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Knife Ridge
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The straddle on the knife ridge.
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Exposure again?
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Now that I was on easier ground, I continued towards 13,302. It was a long talus climb to the false south summit of 13,302 and from the false summit the true summit looked brutal. From the false summit, I descended left (southwest) down a long talus gully. I descended the gully for ~100-200 feet, traversed right on some rock ledges, and then re-ascended back up another gully to a notch.

13,302.
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The gully descent on 13,302 to gain the summit.
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At the notch, I climbed directly on the ridge, class 3, for ~50-100 feet. There were some protruding boulders near the top of this ridge and I decided to climb left around them. I started down one gully about 20 feet and encountered 4th-5th class down-climbing fast. I wasn't thrilled as this climbing was super exposed. I re-climbed back up and tried another gully higher in the ridge which went much easier at class 3. Once around the protruding boulders in the ridge, I climbed back to the ridge proper (class 3). The rock looked loose but was solid as the climbing to the summit was class 4 and exposed. I arrived on the summit at 9:20 AM.

Final class 4 push on 13,302.
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Looking back on the false summit from the true summit.
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13,300 from 13,302
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Looking down on the class 4 exposed ridge on 13,302.
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Looking back on the class 4 exposed ridge on 13,302.
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Class 3 traverse on 13,302
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I took my time as I returned back to the 13,300-13,302 saddle where I descended north into a high valley traversing northeast to an unnamed lake. The weather was holding out great. When I got to the lake I was surprised at its beauty and that it wasn't named. One of my new favorite lakes. I followed the stream out and had to do some route finding to avoid a large cliff band. Eventually I made it back to the Rock Creek trail and back up to camp.

To make the best of a longer day tomorrow, I moved my bivy site higher above Rock Lake. Later that afternoon it rained for a few hours.

Really pretty lake on the descent.
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Really pretty lake on the descent.
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Really pretty lake on the descent.
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Love the San Juans.
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Continued to Part 3



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (2)
sgladbach


It wasn't rotted..     2010-08-17 20:34:25
...when we left it.

Steve, Mark, Lynn; makers of mountain litter.


Furthermore


Oso     2011-07-26 17:38:32
Does the pick labeled ”More Alpenglow on Oso.” and ”Alpenglow on Oso from Peters.” give you the correct angle. I looked and don't have any others with any detail (due to sun angle) from the other summits.



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