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 Peak(s):  "Pk C"  -  13,220 feet
"Pk C Prime"  -  13,100 feet
"Pk D"  -  13,047 feet
"Pk E"  -  13,220 feet
"Pk F"  -  13,230 feet
 Post Date:  07/18/2010 Modified: 06/11/2013
 Date Climbed:   07/17/2010
 Posted By:  lordhelmut

 One hell of a ridge run - Ripsaw Ridge   

Image
Ripsaw Ridge from road to Piney Ranch


Ripsaw Ridge – Pk.C (13,200), "C-Prime" (13,100), D (13,047), E (13,230), F (13,220), G (13,260)

Vertical and Time – 11 hours and 8000 vertical from camp at 9700 ft (according to altimeter watch. This includes all the backtracking and reclimbing I had to do)


Ever since climbing Peak C back in 2008 and gazing upon the infamous, yet mysterious, "Ripsaw Ridge", I was intrigued and intimidated by its length and number of jagged peaks along the ridgeline. I thought it was reserved for only a select few, but following some extensive research, some intense and consistent training over the last few months and a newfound passion for the Gore Range, I convinced myself this was the year I'd give it a shot.

Not much is written about this ridge. I'm probably stepping on all the toes of the Gore Range enthusiasts over on Summitpost, but this could be used as a sort of resource for anyone that wants to give it a try anytime in the future.

Image
Lots more dead trees since 2008


While the weather wasn't flawless, nothing threatened the entire day and the 10% chance of T-storms held true, with dark clouds forming around 7pm, as I was leaving Vail for home. My buddy David and I decided to pack in to at least the campsites around the river at 96-9700 feet in the basin to save a little time and get some more rest. We found a pretty nice spot a little ways up from where the trail veers left and heads up the basin towards Upper Piney Lake at around 9660 feet. David had made a promise to a guy at work to wait for him in the morning, which made me a little uneasy, since his friend didn't plan to show up till 7am at the earliest. I was convinced with a start time like that, the Ripsaw would be out of the question, good weather or not. After a long hour of contemplating, I told David and his friend that I am leaving at 4am and will go solo if I have to.

Anyways, I make the choice to tackle this endeavor solo, which gave me a mixed feeling of anxiety and excitement all through the night. The alarm went off at 3am, but I didn't hit the trail till slightly before 5am. From climbing Peak C before, I knew exactly where to turn off, but this assumption caused me a level of arrogance and I found myself immediately off-route early on in the approach. When approaching along the creek, you begin to gain elevation quickly and reach a clearing where you have a nice view of "The Spider" directly to the East. It is here where you then begin to descend a bit to a creek running down from the Tarn Basin below Pk.C. Around here, look left (north) and try to find a waterfall in the upper right hand section of the shelf below the Tarn Basin. You cannot see Pk.C or C-Prime from here. Head up and slightly to the right, finding the path of least resistence.

Image
waterfall under Tarn Basin


From the waterfall, climb up and around to the right (easiest ground) and you are quickly presented with the Tarn Basin and a good view of the C/C-Prime Southwest Couloir. When I climbed this in the summer of 2008, it was July 26th and the couloir was still filled in, top to bottom. This year, it was almost completely melted out. This made climbing tedious, since all you had to bite on to was loose blocks and scree for 1000 feet. When preparing for the Ripsaw, as you are climbing up this SW Couloir, keep a keen eye on the right wall of the chute. About 2/3 the way up, there is an exit chimney. This is your "easiest" entrance into C-Prime. From the small col linking C to C-Prime, your only options are an extremely sketchy and undocumented traverse around the North side or a direct climb of the West face, which is most likely a 5.7/5.8 highly exposed climb.

Image
SW Couloir and exit ramp to C-Prime


I topped out on C's summit about 2.5 hours after leaving camp and was presented with my day's work.

Image
Ripsaw Ridge


Pk.C used to have a summit register. What I find very aggravating is the lack of register's on peaks this year. Either the CMC is in the process of replacing them with new ones or some LNT asshole is ripping them off one by one. I used to not care for registers, mainly on 14er, cause they'd be trillions of entries. 13er registers are more interesting, some dating back for decades.

Now, for the Ripsaw. To make a really long story short, there are two words to live by. SOUTH and EAST. When scaling the ridge, remain on the SOUTH side AT ALL TIMES. The North side of the ridge and the faces of all the peaks are sheer cliff walls. For 75% of the climb, you are able to remain relatively close to the ridge crest, but there are definitely times when downclimbing around a gully to find easier ground is a necessity. Also, all the EAST approaches to each individual peak along this ridge is MUCH EASIER than the West. Southern approaches to their summit blocks is an option as well. Every time I tried to find a weakness to the West or North, I got cliffed out and had to back track on low 5th class with tons of exposure. There are definitely times when you can have a little fun with the route and toy around with the scrambling, but ultimately you'll end up on the southern and southeastern flanks of the peaks, realizing you could've saved a lot of time, time which you gravely need.

Back to C-Prime. Upon reaching the C/C-Prime col, I tried to find a way around the northern flanks, but there wasn't a clear enough view, so I didn't risk it. After downclimbing about 150 feet, I easily found the exit ramp to the chimney leading up to C-Prime's eastern ridge.

Image
Chimney up to C-Prime


This chimney had options and I chose to go straight up the middle and hopefully land closer to C-Prime's summit. There was a mixture of exposed class 4 scrambling and a few, short class 5.0/5.2 moves here and there. I'd go as far to say I made at least 5 to 6 class 5.4 to 5.6 moves throughout the course of the day, mainly during times when I was trying to find the path of least resistance or was too lazy to downclimb to find easier ground. Luckily, I started out the day with a good decision and landed myself right where I needed to be, no less than 60 feet below C-Prime's summit.

Image
exposed ramp below C-Prime's summit


This picture shows the very exposed ramp I needed to traverse out on to in order to find the easiest scramble to just below the summit. The picture doesn't show the cliff below that slope in the picture and the ramp was big enough for about ¾ of my boot. I had to traverse way out on to the edge there with nothing but air below, but was able to find a nice, class ¾ chimney to the summit.

Image
C-Prime's summit block


The true summit of C-Prime is not worth the risk of obtaining. Think the summit block of Snowmass with drop-offs on either side. I simply tagged the top with my hand, ate some trail mix and made my way for the C-Prime/D col. Downclimbing was easier this go around and I was able to land directly on a small col with a notch that led to a flat level along the ridgeline.

Image
Ridge between C-Prime and D


For 90% of the ridge between C-Prime and D, I was able to travel quickly along the class 2 ridge crest, with no reason to drop down.

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Pk.D. Easiest ground circles around to the right


This was my view upon reaching the western flank of D. I made the Ripsaw Rookie mistake of trying to approach this peak directly from the West. I was making quick work of the exposed class 4 scrambling when I topped out what I thought was the summit, but was the western ridge of the summit. There was no feasible way to obtain the summit from here, nor where there a way to downclimb into the SW gully, so I made my first backtrack of the day with a good 300-400 feet of air below me. This was not fun, not necessary. I let out a decent sized breath of relief when I reached safer ground and traversed around to the SW side of the mountain.

Image
low class 5 downclimb. Got cliffed out on top of this. Downclimb sucked


While no walk in the park, the climbing on this side was much more realistic than the other and I made the summit around an hour and fifteen minutes after topping out on C-Prime.

For some reason, my memory of E and F are very hazy. The Ripsaw is a tough undertaking because you have 2 contradictory factors going on. Time is of the essence, so you need to travel efficiently, with little time for breaks. Since the ridge is so complex, route finding is an issue and takes up even more time.

What I do remember from both these peaks is they were the most complex of the entire ridge. From the summit of D, I was able to downclimb off the E/NE face to regain the ridge further down East, rather than downclimbing the SW gully and circling around. I was thinking at this point that G was out of the question and F might be a stretch. I was thinking I would have to save those for another weekend with my energy level, the anxiety of being solo in the middle of the Gores and the building clouds. Anyways, I pushed on. To be honest, I have no recollection of the traverse from D to E. What I do know is this was a section along the ridge where checking out the route more closely from the summit of D would've been beneficial. Pk. E has a sub-summit, which looks like the actual summit when viewed from low on the ridge. I climbed this sub-summit and got really pissed off.

Image
Rest of Ripsaw


But the views of 2 of my summer goals showed their faces and I was happy again

Image
Peak Q


Image
Peak L


Here was the view of the sub-summit. It looks like a real summit right?

Image
subsummit of E


Well its not, save yourself the time and circle around the southern flanks to the col dividing the summit from the sub-summit and climb accordingly. If I remember correctly, you access the southern ridgeline of E and then climb directly North finding the path of least resistance.


Image
first signs of prior life


Image
real summit and climb up to E


Image
F and G from southside of E


Peak E was the only summit with a register and it dated back to 1948 from an old CMC group. Steve Gladbach's name was on there from 2005 and only 3 since then, the last being August of 09. It was a very heavy summit register made out of cast iron or steel and was in perfect condition.

Image
Summit register from 1948


Image
F and G from E's summit


Still had a long way to go though. I read that the traverse from E to F was, by far, the most difficult section of the climb. For the first section, I was wondering if this was true, but was quickly shown why about halfway. The distance between E to F is about half as much of C-Prime to D, but it's the most arduous climbing of the day and it doesn't relent till you reach the very top of F. There are about 6 different gullies you have to climb in and out of, dropping down and then climbing back up, and repeat. I wish I could say you could stay on the ridge crest, but that's simply not an option. If you tried to remain on the ridge crest, you could probably find a way to do it, but this would suck for you big time cause when you reach the western base of F's summit ridge, not only would you not be able to summit from there, you'd have to traverse all the way back to E, downclimb 600 feet and circle all the way around to directly South of the mountain and realize you have to downclimb even further, another 60-70 feet to obtain the SE gully leading to the summit. I had to do all this, sans getting cliffed out on the ridge crest. F was the hardest summit to obtain on the Ripsaw and has a very exposed summit. Luckily, G is very close and there are actually cairns leading you directly off the eastern ridge to the F/G saddle.

Image
Tedious climbing and traversing from E's summit to F


Image
summit of F


Image
traverse over to G


From looking at pic 23, you descend F along the east flanks, staying on the ride side of the ridge, gain the saddle and climb up the SW face with the snow patch, again, finding the path of least resistance. G was probably the easiest peak to climb, but there was still consistent class ¾ scrambling all the way to the summit block and the downclimb was nothing to take lightly either.

Image
last final scramble


As tired as I was to stand atop of G, I definitely had a pretty unique feeling of accomplishment. Looking back at Pk.C, it felt like I climbed it eons ago and the ridge is no less awe-inspiring looking at it East to West.

Image
looking back on Ripsaw


Image
a very tired me


Image
Spider


I had to retrace my steps back to the G/F saddle and just slog it out from there, 3200 feet to the valley below

Image
exit gully


Image
3200 feet below


Following some potential, faint climbers paths, I miraculously made it to the Upper Piney Lake Trail, even closer to my tent as anticipated and was back by 4pm, enough time to take a quick nap and pack my things and enjoy the sights and sounds of the creek nearby.

Image
Piney Creek


I packed out, ate 3 double cheeseburgers and a large root beer at McD's in Vail and hit up the hot tub in no less than 2 minutes when I got home. Big F'ing day....

Some notes :
- Like I said, if you abide by the EAST and SOUTH policy of the Ripsaw, you'll save youself a lot of time on this ridge run. I got caught up in the moment at times and decided to do some fun scrambling, rather than downclimbing and finding easier ground. While this is tempting, you have to realize your timeframe and stick to it in order to finish this climb
- Time is very important. Watch the weather closely and get a VERY early start. The only reason I started at 445am was because the weather called for clear skies. I got lucky.
- An axe is definitely useful on this route, crampons would just be unnecessary added weight. On sections of the SW couloir climb to C and a patch or 2 along the ridge that were unavoidable, an axe would've been a lot of weight off my anxiety.
- Remember E has two summits, study them in detail from D and travel accordingly.
- The traverse took me 5 hours exactly, with lots of time spent backtracking and finding a feasible way. I've heard it's a 3 mile long ridge, so I'm not too ashamed of this time. The entire day, from camp to the traverse to reaching the car, took 14-15 hours, with a nap before I packed out. While it's a physical test, its more of a mental test when its all said and done. The climb from camp to C is 4000 feet and in a perfect world, of the 5 remaining summits, you descend no more than 500 feet, so you could make it a 6000 foot day, which isn't easy, but according my altimeter watch, I did 9100 feet, which I simply don't believe, but it's been accurate for the most part up till now.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
jbchalk


Again, well done, Brian!     2010-07-20 13:16:30
No worries about not making our Big E slideshow...another time for sure...we hope to be giving more presentations around the valley.

Hey, any idea if that Partner traverse goes?

Brandon


Floyd


How'd I Miss This?     2011-02-23 16:01:52
Thank you for this.


Ridge runner


great route description     2011-01-31 17:24:16
Solid work on what appears to be one of the best ridge runs in the state. If I had half the year that you're having then I'd be pretty content.


Doctor No



Good Lord!     2010-07-18 13:26:22
Well done.


PKelley


Really cool.     2010-07-18 13:44:41
Thanks for sharing. That‘s a big day.


longshanks

Awesome     2010-07-18 14:09:08
I love how much you can eat and sleep after doing something like this. Such a great feeling.


Furthermore


Great Beta     2010-07-18 16:59:53
Thanks for the great beta.


Matt


This is what the real cool kids do     2011-01-18 20:38:48
Wow, Brian... Your TRs are unmatched here. Top notch beta, great narrative, and heartfelt commentary straight from the hip. Exemplary.


lordhelmut


thanks     2010-07-18 20:57:24
Dr.No - thanks for the comments

PKelley - big day indeed, one of the biggest I‘ve had

longshanks - ive been eating and lounging all day and don‘t feel too bad doing so. Great feeling I agree

Furthermore - I figured this would be right up your alley

Matt - thanks for the kind words. I like to put extra effort into these kind of reports, but there are some great reports on this site regardless.


wooderson


Outstanding     2010-07-18 21:16:51
Looks like being selfish paid off quite nicely. Incredible accomplishment, truly inspiring. The age of that summit register is amazing... must‘ve been cool to hold a little piece of mountaineering history like that, and be part of it as well.


Kiefer


Amazing!!!     2010-07-19 07:52:10
Absolutely amazing, Brian!!! Outstanding on a very difficult ridge. In your 1st paragraph, I think you left out mental stamina.
Especially being alone up there, it must have played with your head.
That summit register is nuts! I remember Mike saying something about it. Always wanted to see it.
This has to be one of your best trips in years.
Peak-Q...yet another worthy objective!


Presto


You‘re an ANIMAL!     2010-07-19 08:38:50
You need to change your name, Brian, to LORD ANIMAL! What a great accomplishment (and solo on top of that) ... ahh to be in my 20‘s again . Glad to see weather cooperated with you. Great photos ... thanks for posting. Happy trails!


maverick_manley


solo trips     2010-07-19 10:38:37
are kind of different I agree... a little extra route finding work, especially on a route with so little prior documentation as Ripsaw. Nice work man. What food did you carry on this one?


lordhelmut


Thanks a lot     2010-07-19 10:52:51
Sarah - I must say, the vintage 40's register made the day that much better. It was in perfect condition and it was heavy as hell. Thanks for the comment.

Kiefer - being alone for that long, I had some weird thoughts going through my head. Everything from impersonating the little girl Newt's voice from Aliens to Family Guy quotes. I needed these little cheap thrills to keep some of those tedious downclimbs interesting and to keep me from losing my mind. Next time I get a view of this ridge from the Blue Sky Basin Overlook near lift 11, I'll have a completely different perspective.

Presto - im trying to enjoy my 20's while they last (year and a half left). Happy trails right back at you....

Prakash - in addition to a huge Chipotle burrito the night before, I had a lot of gushers, cliff shots, sweet/spicy trail mix, peppermint patties, high concentrated lemonade, genoa w/ tabasco, some clementines and a peanut butter power bar. It was all gone by the end of the day. Followed by a McD's run in Vail and then Doritos smothered with melted cheese, ground beef w/ habanero mango salsa for dinner. I'm still hunry....


Papillon


Pure Mountaineering     2010-07-19 12:50:41
Obscure peaks, antiquarian summit registers, big time vertical, and a post-climb feast that would've made the romans proud. Factor in the solo effort and this is the type of day out we should all be striving for.


Chicago Transplant


Good stuff!     2010-07-19 14:46:04
I love those Gore Traverses that have little information, it seems any climb involving more than 1 peak in this range will always result in some sort of route finding/downclimbing/backtracking all the while wondering to yourself ”will this go?”. That's why we love the Gore


Kevin Baker


Wow     2010-07-19 15:15:44
Very impressive solo accomplishment, Brian! That sure looks like a heinous traverse with plenty of routefinding dilemmas. I'm right there with you on the mental anxieties you go through on a solo climb. Wow, 3 double cheeseburgers. Guess I don't feel so guilty eating a 2K calorie meal last night. Congrats!


MtnHigh


Brings back the memories     2010-07-19 16:34:54
My old buddy Caz and I ran the Ripsaw Ridge from D to H in September 1989. Very airy, as I recall, and lots of permanent snowfield on the North aspects. Best part was finding the old summit logs, dating back to 1948. If you had kept going onto H, from there a nice grassy ramp descends directly to the valley.


jbchalk


Awesome, Brian!     2010-07-19 16:57:01
This just went on my to-do list in the very near future!
Thanks for the great beta!

Brandon


lordhelmut


thanks a bunch     2010-07-19 17:49:28
Pap - when in Rome. It was just one of those days.

Mike - The biggest thing I remember is exactly what you mentioned. ”I hope this goes” was at the forefront of my mind at the summit ridge of every point on that ridge. Things just seemed to work out time and time again.

Kevin - Thanks man, reminded me of how fullfilling solo outings are. While it weighs heavily on your psyche, it makes it feel a decent amount sweeter in the end.

mtnhigh - well thats really good to know. Had I a partner to consult and converse with, we might've pushed on to freakin East Partner, but my brain had had enough.

Brandon - thanks man, have fun. Tried to make it to your Everest slideshow a few weeks, but damn work outing got in the way. The fun doesn't end at G, you can extend down the Rockinghorse (J to P), on to The Saw (P to W.Partner) and then the Partner Traverse. Endless ridge running possibilities throughout the Gores!


Dancesatmoonrise


Peak E     2010-07-22 09:11:54
”Dated back to 1948 from an old CMC group.” It must have felt incredible to discover that historic document.

A fun read and an exemplary report! This should serve many climbers well for a number of months and years to come. Thanks, Brian!


astrobassman


Well done     2010-07-22 10:20:10
Thats a big day. Looking forward to X,Y,and Z if we can make it go that weekend in August.



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