Buying Gear?  Click Here
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Bancroft, Mt  -  13,250 feet
 Post Date:  04/20/2010 Modified: 04/26/2010
 Date Climbed:   04/18/2010
 Posted By:  PDavis

 Bancroft, East ridge   

We decided that we wanted to get in one last challeging scramble before we started working on our couloir climbs that we've been planning for this spring. This nice class 3/4 ridge of Bancroft turned out to be the perfect choice.

Image

Tony and I started up Stewart Road at about 6:30. The start of the road is still undrivable even though all in all about half of the road is completely dry. The morning started out nice and calm and then the wind started to pick up.
Image

We were thinking is was going to be one long windy day on this exposed ridge, but by the time we reached the start of it the wind had completely stopped.

Climbing the first part of the ridge
Image

Crossing the first of many knife-edged, snow covered parts of the ridge
Image

Looking down from one of the knife edges gives you an idea of the steepness
Image

Image

Checking out what lays ahead
Image

We reached the notch a lot sooner then I had expected. We decided to take a quick break before the rappel and just as we did two other groups came up from behind. The secound group was nice enough to let us jump on there rope to rap down istead of me dealing with ours.
Thanks again

Rapping into the notch
Image

We didn't bring any pro for the 5.2 climb out. We decided that we would take the Class 4 option to the right. There was really only one difficult move for this, right at the begining. After that you could make the climb out a class 4 or if you wanted to, you can even go just a little bit further around and it becomes just a steep class 2 to regain the ridge.

Once back on the ridge things got a lot more interesting. We had a couple more knife edges and quite a few class 4 moves that were made a little tricky by wet and snow covered rock.
Image
Image
Image

Looking back down the ridge from about 3/4 the way up
Image


More fun scambling
Image
Image

Image

From here we only had one class 4 move and the rest was easy class 2/3 to the summit
Image

Image
Image

And here comes the summit
Image

The two of us on top
Image

Spring time descents are always fun since you can enjoy a nice glissade
Image

The famous side view of the notch
Image

We made it back to the car right at 3:30 for a perfect 9 hour day



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
sdkeil


Fun route!     2010-04-21 10:23:53
Hey it was nice meeting you guys along the way and glad to let you two jump onto our rope for the repel. Your pictures did a really good job of capturing the steepness of the route. Keep me in mind if you all hit up the Pacific North couloir sometime this spring. - Shawn


PDavis

.     2010-04-22 18:47:04
That was a fun route and it cool meeting you. We don‘t have any solid plans yet for the North couloir, but when we do I‘ll let you know for sure.



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.