Peak(s):  Bancroft, Mt  -  13,250 feet
Post Date:  12/20/2009
Modified:  02/01/2013
Date Climbed:   12/20/2009
Posted By:  Carl

 Mt. Bancroft - East Ridge   

Mount Bancroft, 13,250ft Attempt
Route: East Ridge
Climbers: Carl & Marc

In the summer with good clearance you can drive the 2.2 miles from Alice Rd. to Loch Lomond. This time of year a gate stops you less than a half mile in, even if the snow doesn't.

The last stretch of road was covered in up to 3 feet of snow so we chose to gain the ridge to Bancroft a little early. Marc breaking trail with Bancroft in the background.

Strong winds were persistent all day. As we started to make the ridge the clouds socked us in and light snow began.

A few exposed third or forth class moves along the ridge and we're approaching a notch with a seemingly mandatory rappel.

Summitpost calls it an 80 foot rap. Tom Pierce provided quite a bit of beta beforehand and thought a 35m rope would do. Our rope choices being a 60m, 50m, or 30m, we played it safe and went with the 50m. There were a few options for the rappel. If you want to start from the ridge a 50m (or maybe even a 60m) would be necessary. Tom's advice was of course on point, and with a manageable downclimb to a well used anchor, I think a 30m would get you safely down. That's what we'll bring next time.

I inspected a few pieces of webbing while Marc connects them with a quicklink.

The wind picks up as Marc raps first.

Marc on rappel.

This shot shows the entire rap, just before I get on. The rope below serving as a wind gauge.

Once in the notch, you're looking up at what makes this a fifth class route. A short pitch of 5.2. I think Marc and I would have argued over who got to lead it.

Instead, with the wind increasing and the visibility decreasing, we decided to bail. This climb is so close to home there was no sense in pushing it on 3rd, 4th, and 5th class rock in poor weather. I remember Tom had said it was possible to downclimb from here and having studied the ridge on the approach this looked like it might be the last chance to bail.

Making our escape.

This snow feature was just too tempting for Marc.

Heading across Lake Caroline. Of course the weather quickly improved.

Noticed some nice looking "flag" trees on the way out. A recent avalanche had run up against them.

This looks fun. Eva I believe.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

  • Comments or Questions

Good times     12/23/2009 12:10
Looks like fun!! Can‘t wait to do that with my kiddos!
Nice pic‘s!
BTW, the second gate is supposed to open July 15, or if the snow is totally gone on the road, from gate to Loch Lomond. And gets closed usually the first good snow.


Great Photos     12/21/2009 13:54
It was good bumping into you guys as well, that ridge looks pretty fun, I wouldn‘t mind heading back there. Its funny, we noticed the East Ridge of Eva as well, that might have just gotten added to the list.


That...     12/21/2009 18:03
looks like a fun ridge run, Eva as well. Nice work while it lasted! Let‘s get out soon Carl...


Must be a mountain rule...     12/21/2009 20:48
...that as soon as you decide to abort and get to safe ground, the weather dramatically improves! Argh! Anyway, cool pics and report.

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