Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
we left the cars and walked 100 yds on the road, took a left turn and crossed the irrigation canal on the concrete gate. From there we went straight up the hill to the top of mayflower ridge. An easy walk across the ridge followed. I had visions of coming back in the spring to play on mayflowers north face. It is small but looks as though it would be the perfect lpine training ground for bigger peaks, with its many couloirs and rock faces.
looking back at mayflower ridge.
The small basin at the head of mayflower ridge contained the most snow we encountered. Often it was possible to stay on the rocks and the dry ground but a few spots presented no other options except to post hole for a short ways. Gaiters would have made things more pleasant.
The west ridge loomed above us.
Gerry roach gave the description for the route as "scramble up the steep blocky ridge." I am not sure about that description. In order to keep it class three the first tower should be bypassed to the right. The tower is actually a great climb and if you enjoy hard scrambling it should not be missed. after negotiating the talus we reached the base of the tower.
looking up to the tower.
closer...
A 20 foot 4th class ramp leads up and to the right.
bottom of tower -ramp visible from lower L to upper R
the ramp
looking down the ramp
On top of the ramp traverse right into a blocky dihedral and climb the dihedral (low 5th class).
the traverse
climb the dihedral. the 4th class "ramp" is just visible in the top right of the photo.
Work your way up to the "Y" crack at the top and pull a few moves (5.4 -5.5?) to the top.
Cross the ledge that is littered with loose rocks,
climb up another couple of moves at the end of the ledge. Grab the left side of the overhanging pinnacle and work your way up and left. Do not try to grab any the gray rock as it is extremely rotted. At the top of the spire cross the nightmare saddle and go along the ridge until a gendarme blocks your way(about 100 feet). You could climb up the gendarme but the other side does not look like something I would want to down climb. Instead find the ramp that goes down and to your right, intersecting with the top of the scree gully.
the escape ramp makes up the R side of the smooth slab in the middle of the photo
looking back at the tower.
From this point on the ridge is mostly class 2 with a class 3 headwall and the occasional class 3 move here and there. Go up the ridge to the summit.
the 3rd class 'headwall'
the rest of the ridge
view from the summit- Qundary and Pacific tarn visible
looking to atlantic
mayflower basin with L to R - Pacific, Atlantic, fletcher
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Ute Bill,
I just wanted to take the chance to thank you for pointing out my shortcomings. How have I survived 20+ years in the mountains without your helpful guidance.
You should re-read my first comment with the premise that I am on your side.
I‘m the antithesis of the safety police!
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.