Peak(s):  Pacific Pk  -  13,950 feet
Post Date:  10/19/2009
Date Climbed:   10/18/2009
Posted By:  BMB1974

 west ridge, class 5 scramble   

we left the cars and walked 100 yds on the road, took a left turn and crossed the irrigation canal on the concrete gate. From there we went straight up the hill to the top of mayflower ridge. An easy walk across the ridge followed. I had visions of coming back in the spring to play on mayflowers north face. It is small but looks as though it would be the perfect lpine training ground for bigger peaks, with its many couloirs and rock faces.
looking back at mayflower ridge.

The small basin at the head of mayflower ridge contained the most snow we encountered. Often it was possible to stay on the rocks and the dry ground but a few spots presented no other options except to post hole for a short ways. Gaiters would have made things more pleasant.

The west ridge loomed above us.
Gerry roach gave the description for the route as "scramble up the steep blocky ridge." I am not sure about that description. In order to keep it class three the first tower should be bypassed to the right. The tower is actually a great climb and if you enjoy hard scrambling it should not be missed. after negotiating the talus we reached the base of the tower.
looking up to the tower.

A 20 foot 4th class ramp leads up and to the right.
bottom of tower -ramp visible from lower L to upper R
the ramp
looking down the ramp
On top of the ramp traverse right into a blocky dihedral and climb the dihedral (low 5th class).
the traverse
climb the dihedral. the 4th class "ramp" is just visible in the top right of the photo.
Work your way up to the "Y" crack at the top and pull a few moves (5.4 -5.5?) to the top.
Cross the ledge that is littered with loose rocks,
climb up another couple of moves at the end of the ledge. Grab the left side of the overhanging pinnacle and work your way up and left. Do not try to grab any the gray rock as it is extremely rotted. At the top of the spire cross the nightmare saddle and go along the ridge until a gendarme blocks your way(about 100 feet). You could climb up the gendarme but the other side does not look like something I would want to down climb. Instead find the ramp that goes down and to your right, intersecting with the top of the scree gully.
the escape ramp makes up the R side of the smooth slab in the middle of the photo
looking back at the tower.

From this point on the ridge is mostly class 2 with a class 3 headwall and the occasional class 3 move here and there. Go up the ridge to the summit.
the 3rd class 'headwall'
the rest of the ridge
view from the summit- Qundary and Pacific tarn visible
looking to atlantic
mayflower basin with L to R - Pacific, Atlantic, fletcher

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

  • Comments or Questions
Ute Bill

Nice...     10/21/2009 15:18
I like that you weren‘t slogging a climbing helmet around...

Climbing is funner that way!

Too many people crawl through the hills with bumper pads on and climbing helmets and lucky poles and and and and... where‘s the fun in that!?

Nice job...


safety police     10/21/2009 18:26
Ute Bill,
I just wanted to take the chance to thank you for pointing out my shortcomings. How have I survived 20+ years in the mountains without your helpful guidance.


Great TR     10/22/2009 04:07
Headed to Pacific Peak this weekend. Thanks for the information and love the pics. Was it windy on top?

Ute Bill

On your side!     10/22/2009 15:42

You should re-read my first comment with the premise that I am on your side.

I‘m the antithesis of the safety police!

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