| Mt Sneffels S & E ridge loop
Mt Sneffels Trip Report : Mt Sneffels S & E ridge loop
Date of Climb : 9/6/09
Peaks Climbed :
1) Mt Sneffels – 14155', Ouray CoHP
2) Kismet – 13694'
3) Cirque Mtn – 13686'
Distance : 7.7 miles
Elev Gain : 4093'
Time : 6:30am – 5:00pm
I car camped at lower TH 11350' in Yankee Boy Basin for the Labor Day weekend. On Sunday morning I got up at 4:30a to eat breakfast and then read my book for awhile waiting for a little light outside and the rain to subside. I started hiking up the road by 6:30a and reached the turn-off hiking trail to Wrights Lake by 7:02a.
7:18a – Wrights Lake 12180' with Upper TH 12310' in the distance
7:45a – heading up to Blue Lakes Pass to join Sneffels S ridge
8:00a – start of S ridge
8:30a – looking down S ridge toward Gilpin Pk
8:40a – bypass this pinnacle by NOT going left
Instead, go right, drop down gully, climb back up other gully to regain ridge
8:56a – this seems to be where the real Class 3 begins. I climbed over the right fork.
9:12a – looking back at the bypassed pinnacle
9:15a – Kissing Camels up to the left, but exit right
9:20a – Kissing Camels
9:33a – conditions high up on the ridge ~13700'
9:56a – exposed section of ridge ~14000'
10:07a – enjoying the summit
10:07a – view of Blue Lakes, Dallas Pk, W Dallas, & T 0 from summit of Mt Sneffels
10:25a – looking down the crux section of the std route on the return
10:50a – heading SE from Lavender Col up on Kismet's W ridge
11:14a – ridge on W side of Kismet rough, yet fun, but leads to dead end
11:39a – obstacles like this created decision points of a) turn-around, b) climb over, c) bypass on L or R, or d) go down for awhile. Up here map & GPS were of no help. I had no beta with me either since it seems not many climb this.
11:43a – reached the dead end on Kismet's W side approach. View of gaping gap on Kismet's NW side.
11:56a – so downclimbed this gully to ~13400'. Looks like total esc route if necessary.
12:14p – looking back up at gully I descended
12:40p – traversed some more, not going any lower than 13300', and then found this gully at 13400' and decided it was time to go back up, hopeful that I had passed the gap and was on the E side of Kismet now.
12:51p – yeah! I think I was in the right place. This was the homestretch climb up to Kismet from the SE side. I'd say Class 3-4 depending on route choice.
1:06p – view of Cirque Mtn, Teakettle Mtn, Coffeepot, & Potosi Pk from Kismet summit
1:13p – Kismet summit with Mt Sneffels in back
2:30p – having bypassed 13500', view of Cirque Mtn
2:55p – on Cirque Mtn E summit viewing the W summit (hi pt), Kismet ridge & Mt Sneffels
3:41p – heading back to camp on a 1 mile downward traverse from 13000'
There were patches of sun & rain on way back, but all in all, a great day!
Topo route plan & track
GE route plan & track
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):