Support 14ers.com
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Little Bear Peak  -  14,037 feet
 Post Date:  09/02/2009 Modified: 09/03/2009
 Date Climbed:   08/30/2009
 Posted By:  zeekzilch

 Hourglass ethics, Scree TV, and a burning stove   

 
 
 
Elevation: 4,278 metres (14,037 feet / 168,444 inches above sea level)
Participants: Roger J. Wendell (aka ZeekZilch), Rick and Virginia
Timing: About 2:30 from Lake Como via the standard route
Photos and Videos: All by ZeekZilch except the one of him and Rick is by Virginia and the three of us on the summit was taken by some other summiteer
 
 
 

Image
    Crowding into a small Jeep for the rough ride up Lake Como Road - Colorado's most difficult 4wd road!! (Please disregard the "Pringles Prop" - I handed the can to Virginia just before snapping this picture of her and Rick...)

 
 
 

The most famous feature on Little Bear Peak, besides the summit itself, is the "Hourglass." Along a great portion of the Hourglass gully lie numerous ropes placed by helpful climbers in days gone by (or as recently as a week or two ago...). However, despite everyone's good intentions fixed gear can not be trusted or relied upon! The reasons are numerous; the ropes may not be properly secured, they may have sun or water rot, or they may simply not be capable of handling a heavy load or the shock of a serious fall. Also, there's an age-old climbing ethic (for those of us in the 5th class world) that says you should never pull up on, step on, or use fixed gear to aid your climb. Unless, of course, you're in some kind of trouble - then it's important not to be stupid and simply use whatever is at your disposal to save life and limb! Anyway, after another longwinded ZeekZilch lecture Rick and Virginia were convinced not to use the Hourglass ropes for anything other than color contrast in their photos!

 
 
 

Here are my personal pages about 14ers, low impact techniques, and the Ten Essentials:
http://www.rogerwendell.com/14ers.html
http://www.rogerwendell.com/softly.html
http://www.rogerwendell.com/ten.html

 
 
 

YouTube videos here and further down the page...
If all you see is white space here it's because your boss has blocked YouTube and wants you to get back to work!

 
 
 


    Virginia avoiding the ropes in the "Hourglass"

 
 
 


    Scree TV

 
 
 


    Rick and Virginia reach the summit

 
 
 


    Climbing ethics

 
 
 

Pix:

 
 
 

  Image
    "Rock Crawlers" can make it all the way...
 
 
 
  Image
    An abandoned cabin (I think this is the one Doug set his tent up in last year?)
 
 
 
  Image
    No relief on the Lake Como "Road"
 
 
 
  Image
    Another abandoned cabin
 
 
 
  Image
    Lake Como
 
 
 
  Image
    Looking up the valley from Lake Como
 
 
 
  Image
    A cairn with an arrow points the way from Lake Como
 
 
 
  Image
    The beginning of Little Bear's trail in the late afternoon before the climb
 
 
 
  Image
    Little Bear Peak at sunset the night before the climb
 
 
 
  Image
    Dramatic stove starter - see the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oylqurOTuh0&feature=channel_page
 
 
 
  Image
    Zeek boils water for another overpriced dehydrated vegetarian meal (http://www.rogerwendell.com/vegetarianism.html)
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia climbing in the early morning dark!
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Roger taking an early morning break along the trail
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia up past the ridge just after sunrise
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia avoiding the ropes in the "Hourglass"
 
 
 
  Image
    Virginia and Rick coming up the "Hourglass"
 
 
 
  Image
    Unreliable ropes in the "Hourglass"
 
 
 
  Image
    Top of the "Hourglass"
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia on the summit of Little Bear Peak
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick, Virginia and ZeekZilch on the summit of Little Bear Peak
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick in the "Hourglass"
 
 
 
  Image
    Virginia downclimbing the "Hourglass"
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia heading back down the ridge
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia heading back down the ridge
 
 
 
  Image
    The three of us heading down (Zeek's shadow is in front of Rick and Virginia)
 
 
 
  Image
    Lake Como as seen from the trail to Little Bear
 
 
 
  Image
    Lake Como as seen from the trail to Little Bear
 
 
 
  Image
    Rick and Virginia nearing camp at Lake Como
 
 
 
  Image
    Remember, only YOU can prevent campfires! (Why not just use your camping stove? It requires much less energy, doesn't scar the rocks and landscape, and allows the wood's nutrients to return to the forest floor!)
 
 
 


    Bonus video - Virginia and Rick downclimbing the Hourglass
 
 
 
http://www.rogerwendell.com
 
 



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (3)
Gueza


Good Report as Always!     2012-03-04 11:31:45
I really enjoy all of your reports. Good luck on your 14er FINISHER this weekend!


zeekzilch


lostsheep 5     2009-09-02 21:34:03
Eric,

Thanks for all them stars!!!!

Roger


kara


awesome!     2009-09-09 21:25:53
Great trip report! I wanna climb with you!



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.