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 Peak(s):  Snowmass Mountain  -  14,092 feet
Hagerman Pk  -  13,841 feet
 Post Date:  08/31/2009
 Date Climbed:   08/29/2009
 Posted By:  kmensch

 Snowmass “S“ Ridge - Hagerman Pk Traverse   

I climbed Snowmass via "S" ridge and continued over connecting ridge to Hagerman and I wanted to add some hints about this committing, exposed traverse. The traverse is a little over 0.5 mile long and took my partner and I a little over 1-1/2 hours. The first 2/3 are relatively easy 3rd class scrambling. There are at least 3 areas of difficult scrambling that I would consider 4th class because I could pull through them in approach shoes, but they really require some technical climbing experience to get through. There is an obvious pinnacle that blocks easy passage about 2/3 of the way to Hagerman. We found that the best way around it is to go right (southwest). I read a trip report that went left, but I believe the rock has more solid handholds on the right side, although NONE of the rock on either mountain can be considered stable, even if it is a large block. Do not pull on any single rock without first testing it and having a second rock to hold in case it does break free. There is also a very exposed ridgeline catwalk/knife edge and a second pinnacle near the summit of Hagerman. On the second pinnacle, keep to the ridgeline. I climbed the southwest face for about 100 feet and it was technical climbing with a lot of exposure. In general the technical climbing involved finger/hand crack or flake holds with few footholds.

In general, I recommend the following general rule: keep on the ridgeline for the entire traverse; if you can not stay directly on the ridge such as with the first pinnacle, go right (southwest).

This is a real 4th class traverse in places, unlike the relatively easy 4th class rankings of some of the 14er summits. See some photos with captions at http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=690889&l=e5d0d1daa4&id=1250853067

 


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